Post by: Djarum on July 18, 2008, 12:35:21 AM
What I am looking for is something that is going to be smooth on dry backend, toasted up lanes. I really don't care about brand.
Dj
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The views and opinions of Djarum expressed on BallReviews.com do not necessarily state or reflect those of the BallReviews.com.
Post by: dizzyfugu on July 18, 2008, 08:39:09 AM
Another good option is Brusnwick's Power Groove Dry/R - a very weak reactive coverstock, paired with a high RG and a good differential that get the ball well down the lane and offers any hook and control you might ask for. Not for total dry lanes, but as weak as it can get for a pearl reactive piece.
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Edited on 7/18/2008 8:39 AM
Post by: Cambumbo on July 18, 2008, 08:48:24 AM
Post by: KDawg77 on July 18, 2008, 08:50:32 AM
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Post by: MrNattyBoh on July 18, 2008, 08:53:12 AM
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Post by: icefiction on July 18, 2008, 09:06:54 AM
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A new ball will never make u better nor will agruing constantly make u right so shut up and practice.
Post by: cjh2839 on July 18, 2008, 09:39:44 AM
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Post by: Krumpy300 on July 18, 2008, 09:44:05 AM
Way above average hit as well.
Post by: Djarum on July 18, 2008, 10:42:05 AM
Dj
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The views and opinions of Djarum expressed on BallReviews.com do not necessarily state or reflect those of the BallReviews.com.
Post by: Jesse James on July 18, 2008, 10:58:16 AM
The Pluto and Neptune RotoGrip pieces are very interesting. Drill them strong and they will react strong like strong medium condition pieces. But drill them weak,.....and you may have something that you can really work with.
My personal favorite is a slightly scuffed cover Sonic X drilled for early roll, to give me a very smooth controlled move off the dry. But that's my choice. I also use a rico drilled Scout, that works well.
I have seen great things from Slate Blue Gargoyle, when you know how to use it.
How about a pin down, Rico drilled, NightHawk Pearl? Just my 2 cents.
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Post by: sbarker on July 18, 2008, 11:08:00 AM
I had the same issue. Power Grooves and Tornado's I couldn't keep on the lane. Lanes were that dry. My solution was a Groove Urethane. Handles the dry lanes like there is oil.
Post by: neb5482 on July 18, 2008, 11:16:43 AM
Post by: charlest on July 18, 2008, 11:26:41 AM
quote:Quote
What I am looking for is something that is going to be smooth on dry backend, toasted up lanes. I really don't care about brand.
Dj
--------------------
The views and opinions of Djarum expressed on BallReviews.com do not necessarily state or reflect those of the BallReviews.com.
You can try the Neptune. A long, low pin will do the same, except the Neptune needs more dry to make the turn than the Jolt Pearl.
That Slate Blue Gargoyle is very smooth, being a pearl urethane. It is earlier than many dry lanes resin balls, but doesn't hook too much after the breakpoint. It has a real, dynamic core so a mild drilling is probably also called for. In this case, a high pin will not affect it as much BECAUSE it is a pearl urethane.
I also like the Blue Green Centaur a LOT. Hooks like a urethane, hits like a resin.
Good luck.
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Edited on 7/18/2008 8:03 PM
Post by: NY Mike on July 18, 2008, 04:04:01 PM
Recently bought the Valentino's Resurrection / Snake Oil. The snake oil is a polish that tamed the backends but stillstayed strong on the enough back end to carry the rack. Check the coverstock section for some of the topics listed as Valentino's. Starter kit is approx $20 shipped, Kevin @ Valentino' was great to deal. I have no connection to Valentino's, just a very satisfied customer. Good luck.
Post by: charlest on July 18, 2008, 04:12:05 PM
quote:
Something with medium rg and medium diff with a very mild solid coverstock. Is such a thing available?
Not that I know of.
quote:
Maybe an orbit extreme?
Dj
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The views and opinions of Djarum expressed on BallReviews.com do not necessarily state or reflect those of the BallReviews.com.
If a Jolt Pearl is too much, then an Orbit Extreme is certainly too much.
RG - 2.49 - NOT for truly dry. The solid is a good control ball, for medium-light to medium oil.
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Edited on 7/18/2008 8:04 PM
Post by: Hellbound on July 18, 2008, 04:37:00 PM
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Post by: slashrr69 on July 18, 2008, 05:34:22 PM
Post by: Monster Pike on July 18, 2008, 05:53:14 PM
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Post by: charlest on July 18, 2008, 06:33:51 PM
quote:
Ok. I'm bowling on older synthetics, and as of late the lanes have just had screaming backends. Fairly playable when fresh, but when they start getting blown open, this starts presenting trouble for me. I purchased last year a jolt pearl for dryer conditions. But this ball is way too skid flippy, even after I dulled the surface. The pin is already under bridge, so I'm not sure if redrilling will help.
....
Dj
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Dj,
(edited)
You may need one or two mods to the JP.
1. Smooth it to 4000 grit Abralon via 1000, 2000 and 4000 grit Abralon pads.
2. Redrill it with a 5" - 5.5" pin to PAP, with the pin UNDER the level of the bridge area, possibly under the middle finger.
I suggest trying the surface mod first. Then the redrilling, if the surface mod does not work fully or enough.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Edited on 7/18/2008 8:05 PM
Post by: srlunatic on July 18, 2008, 06:44:39 PM
For exactly the same conditions you have described I use...
a 14lb Columbia Scout Hi-Flare...(1 pound lighter than normal)
Drilled Pin over Bridge with the slight CG kick...
It has served me very well to include shooting 300 with it in Albuquerque in 2006 at the State Tourney. It is a steal at 45 bucks or so and would fit in there perfectly ...
My 2 cents...
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Edited on 7/18/2008 6:46 PM
Post by: Maine Man on July 18, 2008, 08:15:21 PM
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Post by: scadreau on July 18, 2008, 11:32:51 PM
Post by: SVstar34 on July 18, 2008, 11:52:54 PM
Hammer classifies the Razyr as Maximum Length and Moderate Backend movement for dry-lanes.
check out some of these videos:
Britton- http://youtube.com/watch?v=iivoKOE0mgA
Buddies- http://youtube.com/watch?v=gLIrtYWTwHQ
Jeff Ussery on Hammer website- http://www.hammerbowling.com/products/balls/ball_razyr.php
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Post by: strikestriketapped on July 19, 2008, 12:26:51 AM
Post by: Xfest on July 19, 2008, 12:30:19 AM
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Post by: directdrill on July 19, 2008, 08:29:57 AM
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Post by: chadw1974 on July 19, 2008, 09:20:11 AM
Anyway, my bowling style is a stroker. I like to play around the 2nd arrow. My ball has 2-1/4" pin length & is drilled with the pin over my ring finger. I also added polish to the ball. That seemed to bring it to life on the dry stuff.
I've also got a Twisted Fury & it acts like it might be useable on drier lane conditions but I can't say for sure. I've only had it a couple weeks but it also doesn't have a huge backend move. My only gripe with the ball is it hits like a bug on a windshield, in comparison to my other stuff.
Post by: Djarum on July 20, 2008, 08:49:52 PM
quote:quote:
Ok. I'm bowling on older synthetics, and as of late the lanes have just had screaming backends. Fairly playable when fresh, but when they start getting blown open, this starts presenting trouble for me. I purchased last year a jolt pearl for dryer conditions. But this ball is way too skid flippy, even after I dulled the surface. The pin is already under bridge, so I'm not sure if redrilling will help.
....
Dj
--------------------
Dj,
(edited)
You may need one or two mods to the JP.
1. Smooth it to 4000 grit Abralon via 1000, 2000 and 4000 grit Abralon pads.
2. Redrill it with a 5" - 5.5" pin to PAP, with the pin UNDER the level of the bridge area, possibly under the middle finger.
I suggest trying the surface mod first. Then the redrilling, if the surface mod does not work fully or enough.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Unofficial Ballreviews.com FAQ (http://"http://home.mchsi.com/~s-cross-7-28-71/FAQ.htm")
Edited on 7/18/2008 8:05 PM
Charlest,
It already is drilled pin under, right between my fingers.
I've played with the surface some. I took it down to 800 no polish, and it tamed down the backend, but not much. Then I tried polishing it to 2000 with polish, and as soon as it hit the dry, it creates huge uncontrolable angle and is horribly over under when the lanes break down. I think its a good ball, on the right condition. Did well on the viper pattern with it. I have yet to take it to 4000.
Dj
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The views and opinions of Djarum expressed on BallReviews.com do not necessarily state or reflect those of the BallReviews.com.
Post by: charlest on July 21, 2008, 06:36:52 PM
quote:quote:quote:
Ok. I'm bowling on older synthetics, and as of late the lanes have just had screaming backends. Fairly playable when fresh, but when they start getting blown open, this starts presenting trouble for me. I purchased last year a jolt pearl for dryer conditions. But this ball is way too skid flippy, even after I dulled the surface. The pin is already under bridge, so I'm not sure if redrilling will help.
....
Dj
--------------------
Dj,
(edited)
You may need one or two mods to the JP.
1. Smooth it to 4000 grit Abralon via 1000, 2000 and 4000 grit Abralon pads.
2. Redrill it with a 5" - 5.5" pin to PAP, with the pin UNDER the level of the bridge area, possibly under the middle finger.
I suggest trying the surface mod first. Then the redrilling, if the surface mod does not work fully or enough.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Unofficial Ballreviews.com FAQ (http://"http://home.mchsi.com/~s-cross-7-28-71/FAQ.htm")
Charlest,
It already is drilled pin under, right between my fingers.
I've played with the surface some. I took it down to 800 no polish, and it tamed down the backend, but not much. Then I tried polishing it to 2000 with polish, and as soon as it hit the dry, it creates huge uncontrolable angle and is horribly over under when the lanes break down. I think its a good ball, on the right condition. Did well on the viper pattern with it. I have yet to take it to 4000.
Dj
--------------------
The views and opinions of Djarum expressed on BallReviews.com do not necessarily state or reflect those of the BallReviews.com.
If you've already taken it to 800 grit, I doubt if 4000 grit will help. 4000 will allow it to go longer, but reduce the backend a bit. 800 will have allowed it to burn up in the midlane as much as possible, IF you still had enough energy left ot hit.
At this point, I'd try a really mild backend ball, like the Blue/Green Centaur.
It comes 1000 grit matter (which is really 2000 grit Abralon) and is very smooth - virtually a urethane reaciton with resin hit (I remain astounded at its hitting power.). You can take the surface to 4000 grit for more length, but I suspect that would not be necessary. BTM listed its backend as 11.5, which I think is the smallest number there is a Looooong time.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Edited on 7/21/2008 6:38 PM
Post by: 230-n-up-or-bust on July 21, 2008, 06:38:32 PM
quote:
The ball I'm having the best success with on drier lanes is my Resurgence.
I'd hate to see that house when they're flooded!
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Post by: chadw1974 on July 21, 2008, 08:12:17 PM
Like I said, I haven't seen anyone else throw this ball so I don't know if all are like mine or if mine is 1 that fell thru the cracks. Either way it doesn't matter because I still like the ball.