Author Topic: Low End Solid (Read 9429 times)

lifted rillo · « **on:** February 05, 2013, 01:15:50 PM »

Got the go-ahead from the wife to get a low-end ball. I've actually been wanting to try a low-end solid for about 6 months, but never had the cash to get one drilled up.

So, I was thinking I'd change the surface to something easy to work with like 2000 or 4000 and was wanting some opinions on what would be a good smooth motion for medium to light oil with choppy heads or a ton of wet/dry.

I know I've asked a very similar question recently, but I've had some different opinions on what would work for my needs.

Looking at either an Ebonite Cyclone or a 900 Global Hook Green/Black. They both look pretty mild and would seem to work well for me on the above conditions. Anyone have opinions on what they like better? I'm going to go talk to the driller on Saturday to see what he can do for me.

A possible consideration would be the Roto Grip Shout. I know that one is pretty mild as well, but I haven't heard of anyone knocking off the polish yet.

lifted rillo · « **Reply #16 on:** February 06, 2013, 09:01:29 AM »

Quote from: LuckyLefty on February 06, 2013, 07:56:18 AM

Really depends on what you want and what type of release you have.

Many in our house use balls with diffs like the Hook around .043 and like the Freeze, very similar and others like the even lower rg and higher flare Cyclone. In our wet dry house a lot of flare like that can uusally only be paired with a up the back low axis rotation bowlers in the 20 to 40 degree axis rotation area, or speed dominant players.

Better for strong side rotation bowlers like myself are balls like the Rotogrip Sonic X(today's comparable is the slightly stronger Shout .025 to the Sonic .018 diff)) or the Motiv Ascent Solid (.025 also but smooth).

Regards,

Luckylefty

This is why I'm having such a hard time deciding. I can go either way when it comes to my release.

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #17 on:** February 06, 2013, 09:24:01 AM »

All listed above except the Shout and Ascent Solid are Probably too much for me on a wet dry shot.

My Strongest ball on this wet dry House is a Tropical Heat Solid diff of .038. I also use a Sonic Boom at times(my usual only pearl) which is a 1/2 step down from a shatter.

But MY release is strongly 55 to 70 degrees. A more versatile player Can easily use a Freeze or the like. By the way a freeze is a very popular ball in our wet dry house. Again for those in the less than 40 degrees axis rotation range.

Bon Appetit. Match to you favored release and lock and load. For severe Wet Dry's I prefer solids.

Regards,

Luckylefty

Another one tought to find is a Brunswick Damage

lifted rillo · « **Reply #18 on:** February 06, 2013, 09:29:42 AM »

I had the chance to get a damage at a very low price about a year ago and kick myself for not getting it then. Massive Damage too. (even though they are both pearls)

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #19 on:** February 06, 2013, 10:04:33 AM »

Massive Damage and Damage very different. Massive Damage an early chugger like the Cyclone.

Damage has specs(higher RG) more like the Freeze and the ones I have seen either used a lot and dullish or lightly phazed have been hard hitting and smooth!

REgards,

Luckylefty
PS i'm picking up a Shout to see if 1/2 stronger than my Sonic X solid and 1/2 weaker than my Tropical Heat.

TWOHAND834 · « **Reply #20 on:** February 06, 2013, 10:13:47 AM »

Quote from: lifted rillo on February 06, 2013, 09:01:29 AM

Quote from: LuckyLefty on February 06, 2013, 07:56:18 AM
Really depends on what you want and what type of release you have.

Many in our house use balls with diffs like the Hook around .043 and like the Freeze, very similar and others like the even lower rg and higher flare Cyclone. In our wet dry house a lot of flare like that can uusally only be paired with a up the back low axis rotation bowlers in the 20 to 40 degree axis rotation area, or speed dominant players.

Better for strong side rotation bowlers like myself are balls like the Rotogrip Sonic X(today's comparable is the slightly stronger Shout .025 to the Sonic .018 diff)) or the Motiv Ascent Solid (.025 also but smooth).

Regards,

Luckylefty

This is why I'm having such a hard time deciding. I can go either way when it comes to my release.

This is why I mentioned putting the pin at 2 inches from your axis point. The differentials wont matter as much because you are already "laying the core down" in an extremely stable position. Putting the pin in that position really helps to blend out the wet/dry with the right surface. Polish the ball to get through the heads and use a 2 inch layout to stablize the core and give you the control you are looking for.

lifted rillo · « **Reply #21 on:** February 06, 2013, 10:26:25 AM »

[/quote]

This is why I mentioned putting the pin at 2 inches from your axis point. The differentials wont matter as much because you are already "laying the core down" in an extremely stable position. Putting the pin in that position really helps to blend out the wet/dry with the right surface. Polish the ball to get through the heads and use a 2 inch layout to stablize the core and give you the control you are looking for.
[/quote]

This is an option as well. With the pin being that close to my axis, would it be better to be higher or lower? I was thinking no higher than even with my ring finger, but I don't want it to be too low either. I haven't been too successful with many pin-down drillings.

TWOHAND834 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 06, 2013, 10:50:00 AM »

Quote from: lifted rillo on February 06, 2013, 10:26:25 AM

This is why I mentioned putting the pin at 2 inches from your axis point. The differentials wont matter as much because you are already "laying the core down" in an extremely stable position. Putting the pin in that position really helps to blend out the wet/dry with the right surface. Polish the ball to get through the heads and use a 2 inch layout to stablize the core and give you the control you are looking for.
[/quote]

This is an option as well. With the pin being that close to my axis, would it be better to be higher or lower? I was thinking no higher than even with my ring finger, but I don't want it to be too low either. I haven't been too successful with many pin-down drillings.
[/quote]

I would put the pin a touch above the ring finger and at 2 inches from your axis. Put the cg at or very near the center of grip and no weight hole. By putting the pin there, you almost take to core out of the equation and rely solely on the cover. You can easily take a ball with a diff of .04+ and make it roll like something with a .02 diff because the ball wont flare as the core is already laid down. I looked at your profile and is lists you as a tweener. What is your ball speed? That will help determine what surface to put the ball at.

lifted rillo · « **Reply #23 on:** February 06, 2013, 11:11:28 AM »

Quote from: TWOHAND834 on February 06, 2013, 10:50:00 AM

Quote from: lifted rillo on February 06, 2013, 10:26:25 AM

This is why I mentioned putting the pin at 2 inches from your axis point. The differentials wont matter as much because you are already "laying the core down" in an extremely stable position. Putting the pin in that position really helps to blend out the wet/dry with the right surface. Polish the ball to get through the heads and use a 2 inch layout to stablize the core and give you the control you are looking for.

This is an option as well. With the pin being that close to my axis, would it be better to be higher or lower? I was thinking no higher than even with my ring finger, but I don't want it to be too low either. I haven't been too successful with many pin-down drillings.
[/quote]

I would put the pin a touch above the ring finger and at 2 inches from your axis. Put the cg at or very near the center of grip and no weight hole. By putting the pin there, you almost take to core out of the equation and rely solely on the cover. You can easily take a ball with a diff of .04+ and make it roll like something with a .02 diff because the ball wont flare as the core is already laid down. I looked at your profile and is lists you as a tweener. What is your ball speed? That will help determine what surface to put the ball at.
[/quote]

I'm around 16 at the pins. Pretty average speed.

TWOHAND834 · « **Reply #24 on:** February 06, 2013, 11:24:31 AM »

That would mean you are probably 17 - 17.5 at release. You could start at 2000 plus polish or even 4000 no polish and then tweak the cover as needed to get the desired reaction.

lifted rillo · « **Reply #25 on:** February 06, 2013, 12:29:03 PM »

That is exactly what I was thinking. I guess I'm finally learning some things around this place huh?

TWOHAND834 · « **Reply #26 on:** February 06, 2013, 05:43:36 PM »

Quote from: lifted rillo on February 06, 2013, 12:29:03 PM

That is exactly what I was thinking. I guess I'm finally learning some things around this place huh?

LOL!!! Thats what we are here for.

lifted rillo · « **Reply #27 on:** February 06, 2013, 08:29:40 PM »

I'm serious, man. I've learned more about the aspects of the game from this website tha I have in my 10 years of bowling in leagues. I really appreciate the advice given directly, or indirectly, to me since I've started on here.

Dave81644 · « **Reply #28 on:** February 06, 2013, 08:50:27 PM »

Well, think about this ball
Arson Low flare, just came out
500+polish, max flare of 2.5"
2.48 rg and .020 diff
this ball is super smooth and not jumpy, when others are moving in, i can move out with this ball.
very controllable

check out video here
http://hammerbowling.com/products/product_detail/arson_low-flare/

Bill Thomas · « **Reply #29 on:** February 07, 2013, 07:05:47 PM »

Quote from: Dave81644 on February 05, 2013, 10:09:27 PM

Go with the cyclone, the black/gold one is more of a pearl
the other ones are solid
a bit stronger than one might think, all cover strength
I have buddy who is speed dominant and just crushes some of the medium to dryer patterns with it.

And its $75 with free shipping

http://www.bowlingball.com/products/bowling-balls/Ebonite/9502/Cyclone-Purple-Orange-Yellow.html

All Cyclones are pearlized!

J_Mac · « **Reply #30 on:** February 07, 2013, 07:51:41 PM »

Quote from: Bill Thomas on February 07, 2013, 07:05:47 PM

Quote from: Dave81644 on February 05, 2013, 10:09:27 PM
Go with the cyclone, the black/gold one is more of a pearl
the other ones are solid
a bit stronger than one might think, all cover strength
I have buddy who is speed dominant and just crushes some of the medium to dryer patterns with it.

And its $75 with free shipping

http://www.bowlingball.com/products/bowling-balls/Ebonite/9502/Cyclone-Purple-Orange-Yellow.html

All Cyclones are pearlized!

No, they're all solid!

I'm really tired of this whole pearl/solid argument... It's not nearly as important as everyone seems to think. Microstructure of coverstocks and how their surface is finished has more to do with motion than whether it looks like a pearl or solid.

Author Topic: Low End Solid (Read 9429 times)

lifted rillo

Low End Solid

lifted rillo

Re: Low End Solid

LuckyLefty

Re: Low End Solid

lifted rillo

Re: Low End Solid

LuckyLefty

Re: Low End Solid

TWOHAND834

Re: Low End Solid

lifted rillo

Re: Low End Solid

TWOHAND834

Re: Low End Solid

lifted rillo

Re: Low End Solid

TWOHAND834

Re: Low End Solid

lifted rillo

Re: Low End Solid

TWOHAND834

Re: Low End Solid

lifted rillo

Re: Low End Solid

Dave81644

Re: Low End Solid

Bill Thomas

Re: Low End Solid

J_Mac

Re: Low End Solid