BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: carlos on January 25, 2014, 04:22:46 PM
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If your throwing fantastic ball and everything looks great, but your leaving ten pins. After making suttle moves with your feet you continue to leave ten pins. What are other options ? Do you A: Make a ball change ? B: Make a drastic move with you feet and target ? Or C: Make a surface change on the ball to tame it down a bit. After two weeks of no doubt pocket hits on different pairs of lanes only to have a scores of roughly 225 I'm kinda out of sorts. Throwing a Roto Grip Wrecker, pin above the ring finger nothing exotic. Thanks for any positive feedback.
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Depends on how the ball is reading the lane and the type of ten pin.
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Depends on how the ball is reading the lane and the type of ten pin.
What he said. If it "ring tens" I parallel 1-1 right, if I execute properly and it flat 10s and or 4 pins , I switch balls.
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sometimes you gotta play around in all directions, and get creative. i'll sometimes have to move left or right. sometimes a forward or backward move is in order. sometimes, a combination forward-left is in order. be creative, watch the 6 pin. if the ball doesn't look high at all, and you are ringing a 10, maybe forward (half a shoe or so) and a board or two left to help change the angle the ball rolls into the pocket
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I have never understood this moving "forward or backwards" approach. The only time I move forward is when I am in front of the ball return. Can someone explain it to me?
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I have never understood this moving "forward or backwards" approach. The only time I move forward is when I am in front of the ball return. Can someone explain it to me?
You and me both North. The "forward" or "back" adjustment doesn't do anything for me nor does it make sense.
Minor finger position changes, based on pin reaction is my first adjustment, then I will look at moving or equipment changes.
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I have never understood this moving "forward or backwards" approach. The only time I move forward is when I am in front of the ball return. Can someone explain it to me?
You and me both North. The "forward" or "back" adjustment doesn't do anything for me nor does it make sense.
Minor finger position changes, based on pin reaction is my first adjustment, then I will look at moving or equipment changes.
There is no exact science, in my opinion. its about learning what works for your game.
With my standard approach, I stop about 8-12 inches short of the fowl line, which allows for this adjustment without changing my steps
I have never understood this moving "forward or backwards" approach. The only time I move forward is when I am in front of the ball return. Can someone explain it to me?
the goal of moving forwards and backwards for me is to change the spot of the breakpoint. I find that moving a half a shoe forward and a board left will keep the ball entering the pocket at about the same spot visually but with a slightly less amount of angle. If I am wrapping 10's and any move I make gives me a 4 pin or a 2 pin, or more 10's, this is an adjustment I use. Obviously i'm close to the hole if i'm wrapping 10's, I hate to give up the pocket to zero in another ball if I don't have to.
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I have never understood this moving "forward or backwards" approach. The only time I move forward is when I am in front of the ball return. Can someone explain it to me?
if you move your feet a few inches forward or backward keeping everything else the same the adjustment will change the angles every so slightly usually enough to get ringing ten to carry when you move back (increasing angle) or moving forward decreasing angle to carry a flat ten
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It all depends on what the 6 pin is doing, and most importantly, what my ball is doing going into the pocket. I don't leave weak 10's very often, usually ringing so that indicates I've missed the sweet spot of the pocket, or the ball is coming in too steep or still hooking when it gets to the pocket.
So, for example, if the ball's keeping too much energy coming in (still hooking), I'll move back and stand the ball up a little...giving it space to roll out.
If I'm good on the ball but still hitting a ringing-10, I'll make a minor adjustment to soften up the pocket hit and try again.
If I can't tame the ball, I'll move to a different one that grabs a bit more lane and comes into roll sooner.
Or, I'll stand there and cuss a lot.
It all depends.
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The "move forward/move backward" thing is something old timers used to say. What it does is actual terms is change timing. Moving forward *should*(If the bowler has solid mechanics) slow down the timing of the feet and create a flatter swing plane through the shot so that the fingers exit the ball more behind it and create more roll. This would be better for patterns that have carried down or when the ball speed needs to be softened so that the ball has more time to generate more angle.
"Moving back" *should*(if the bowler has solid enough mechanics), get the feet moving faster and get the ball into the downswing faster, thus having the fingers exit the ball quicker with a little more speed to give the ball a faster transition from the dry down the lane. That is, if the shot is hooking a lot and the ball is finishing too high in the pocket (wrap tens, 9s, and fast 8 counts).
Of course, this will only yield the correct results to someone who throws the ball like a superstar and not the typical 14.5 mph, knuckle-ball spinner THS guy who has 8 balls, all drilled stack leverage and can't understand why he can't bowl well through transition. This ideology was more for the plastic/urethane era where there was a more defined ceiling of ball reaction. Guys came up with all type of myths/theories to give themselves more reaction.
These days it's merely old wise tales, as ball technology overrides a lot of the minor adjustments that guys used to make.
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The "move forward/move backward" thing is something old timers used to say. What it does is actual terms is change timing. Moving forward *should*(If the bowler has solid mechanics) slow down the timing of the feet and create a flatter swing plane through the shot so that the fingers exit the ball more behind it and create more roll. This would be better for patterns that have carried down or when the ball speed needs to be softened so that the ball has more time to generate more angle.
"Moving back" *should*(if the bowler has solid enough mechanics), get the feet moving faster and get the ball into the downswing faster, thus having the fingers exit the ball quicker with a little more speed to give the ball a faster transition from the dry down the lane. That is, if the shot is hooking a lot and the ball is finishing too high in the pocket (wrap tens, 9s, and fast 8 counts).
Of course, this will only yield the correct results to someone who throws the ball like a superstar and not the typical 14.5 mph, knuckle-ball spinner THS guy who has 8 balls, all drilled stack leverage and can't understand why he can't bowl well through transition. This ideology was more for the plastic/urethane era where there was a more defined ceiling of ball reaction. Guys came up with all type of myths/theories to give themselves more reaction.
These days it's merely old wise tales, as ball technology overrides a lot of the minor adjustments that guys used to make.
Solid mechanics? Who needs those these days?
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The "move forward/move backward" thing is something old timers used to say. What it does is actual terms is change timing. Moving forward *should*(If the bowler has solid mechanics) slow down the timing of the feet and create a flatter swing plane through the shot so that the fingers exit the ball more behind it and create more roll. This would be better for patterns that have carried down or when the ball speed needs to be softened so that the ball has more time to generate more angle.
"Moving back" *should*(if the bowler has solid enough mechanics), get the feet moving faster and get the ball into the downswing faster, thus having the fingers exit the ball quicker with a little more speed to give the ball a faster transition from the dry down the lane. That is, if the shot is hooking a lot and the ball is finishing too high in the pocket (wrap tens, 9s, and fast 8 counts).
Of course, this will only yield the correct results to someone who throws the ball like a superstar and not the typical 14.5 mph, knuckle-ball spinner THS guy who has 8 balls, all drilled stack leverage and can't understand why he can't bowl well through transition. This ideology was more for the plastic/urethane era where there was a more defined ceiling of ball reaction. Guys came up with all type of myths/theories to give themselves more reaction.
These days it's merely old wise tales, as ball technology overrides a lot of the minor adjustments that guys used to make.
That's the response I was looking for. This "forward/back" stuff reminds me of advice from "Uncle Darryl", everyone has that uncle that has odd advice.
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The "move forward/move backward" thing is something old timers used to say. What it does is actual terms is change timing. Moving forward *should*(If the bowler has solid mechanics) slow down the timing of the feet and create a flatter swing plane through the shot so that the fingers exit the ball more behind it and create more roll. This would be better for patterns that have carried down or when the ball speed needs to be softened so that the ball has more time to generate more angle.
"Moving back" *should*(if the bowler has solid enough mechanics), get the feet moving faster and get the ball into the downswing faster, thus having the fingers exit the ball quicker with a little more speed to give the ball a faster transition from the dry down the lane. That is, if the shot is hooking a lot and the ball is finishing too high in the pocket (wrap tens, 9s, and fast 8 counts).
Of course, this will only yield the correct results to someone who throws the ball like a superstar and not the typical 14.5 mph, knuckle-ball spinner THS guy who has 8 balls, all drilled stack leverage and can't understand why he can't bowl well through transition. This ideology was more for the plastic/urethane era where there was a more defined ceiling of ball reaction. Guys came up with all type of myths/theories to give themselves more reaction.
These days it's merely old wise tales, as ball technology overrides a lot of the minor adjustments that guys used to make.
That's the response I was looking for. This "forward/back" stuff reminds me of advice from "Uncle Darryl", everyone has that uncle that has odd advice.
The advice may be odd, and not always necessary. But if you have a day where the 10 just won't go away, it can be the answer. Just one of those tricks to put in the back of your head and pull it out when needed
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Yesterday Wes had the ringing ten pin problem and seem to never come up with the right moves to get the ten pin out. If he can't figure out how to carry the ten pin with a particular ball along with the advisors he has at his disposal. I don't feel as bad. I'll take my chances going with a different ball. Thanks for all advise on this topic. Carlos
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TV isn't always a good indication of what really goes on. Unless it was the last game of qualifying and he was on the number he switches balls after the second ten pin. Usually on TV you can't take a chance of switching balls late in the game.
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I was leaving ten pins something fierce a couple years ago. What works for me is if the six is going around the ten, move out a half board. If it is laying down in the channel, move in a half board.
Moving forward and backwards does work too....half a shoe back for a ringing ten, forward for the flat.
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Can't make a surface change during league or tournaments, so got to play with that during practice. I would make subtle changes just to get the ten kicked out, but sometimes no matter what you do, it just doesn't work out. Pick up the spares.