DV8 Misfit - Drill it up left handed and make sure the center of weight is in your hand...

Try a plastic or urethane ball.  For your 10 pins, learn to throw a straight or backup ball.  --  JohnP

All balls hook because of friction between the ball and the lane. When there's no oil on the lanes, the lane provides more friction. The mistake that many bowlers make is to try and go with a less aggressive ball and polish it....this can create a nightmare if you happen to touch any oil anywhere on the lane. Yes the polish helps get the ball down the lane but it also makes the ball react more strongly when it finally reduces speed enough to "catch".

My suggestion is to find a middle of the road ball (typically symmetrical core to spread the hook out and make it more even reacting) and then drill it with the pin high above the middle finger. This will help burn axis tilt and rotation quicker and even the reaction out downlane. 2 other suggestions.....use 4000 grit Siaair/Abralon/White ScotchBrite instead of polish and avoid weightholes at all costs unless you can put one in a position that does not increase the flare.

Good luck and keep us posted.

First i would like to thank all of you for your aswers.

@Doug : Thank you for your advices, but what do you call a "middle of the road ball" ? Do you have any exemples ? I'm currently using a Brunswick Aura and a Brunswick Ringer.

@Tripcee i'm currently working on this technique ^^

@Elimeno I never tought about it to tell you the truth, it would be great since there's not a lot of people playing on the left side of the lanes lol. But starting over, approach, backswing, ect.. creeps me out. I don't know if i could have the patience to start over.

In addition to what has been said, simply put, the ball responds to friction and then travels in the direction of it's rotation.

If you can roll any reactive ball end-over-end it will go straight.  Think of that regarding the 10 pin.  But, if the balls you use are hooking too much, you can also incorporate that idea. 

Where are your fingers as they exit the ball?  Three o' clock?  Four o' clock?  Try releasing the ball at five o' clock to control the late movement on the lane.  Keep in mind that a ball with more forward roll loses energy faster, so you may need to add a little polish to enhance carry, but that's easily done.

Good luck and keep us posted.

I have literally felt your pain, in the past. I once stuck my thumb into the spinning fan of my car, trying to retrieve a wrench I had dropped. I cut the tip of my thumb off.....but it was a clean cut. Raced to the hospital and they were able to reconnect it, fortunately. That bowling season I bowled "no-thumber"!! Only averaged a 165, though, so your 190 is pretty admirable.

Doug Sterner's suggestions are pretty right on, however even a drilled ball with a high pin will flip on you at the end of the pattern. What I did was take an old reactive ball, a purple Ninja(AMF) and put an extremely even drill on it,.... a barbell drill which allowed me to really rev it up, without seeing the extreme revs downlane.

A barbell drill is when the pin and cg are directly across from one another, below the finger holes. I believe I had the pin in the middle of my palm at the time, and I also scuffed the surface of that ball to about 600 grit. It made for a nice, big even flare, without the extreme flip.

Experimentation is key here. I have a few other techniques that work, but they require good timing, and a disciplined release. Good luck!

Man, 190 is pretty impressive for such a drastic change.

I would consider going two handed if I was in your situation. That would allow you to "flatten" your wrist enough when shooting spares or needing to deal with dryer conditions. It would give you a lot more options at least.