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Author Topic: Playing the Sydney pattern  (Read 1903 times)

Gizmo823

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Playing the Sydney pattern
« on: May 12, 2014, 11:08:30 AM »
I'm in a summer sport league, and nothing is really on the line, so how I score doesn't matter, but I'm trying to put in some serious practice.  We bowled on Autobahn last week, which is painfully easy for a "sport" pattern, and this week is Sydney.  I've bowled on it once before, but never got into any transition, which is where I'm positive the challenge of this pattern shows up.  A nice little 10-5ish swing seems to work well on the fresh, but I'm not really sure what moves to make once transition sets in.  Left doesn't seem like a good idea, but there's really not any room to move right, so would ball down or speed up be the best way to go?

The house is first generation Anvilane, so everything plays drier to begin with.  I'm pretty versatile, so I should be able to do anything I need to do.  There are only 4 people per pair, 5 games, move a pair every game, so I don't anticipate a lot of transition, but I do think I'll have to move at some point.  Sydney just looks like a particularly rough pattern to try to make adjustments on. 
What would you be if you were attached to another object by an inclined plane, wrapped helically around an axis?

 

spmcgivern

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Re: Playing the Sydney pattern
« Reply #1 on: May 12, 2014, 11:47:27 AM »
For me, the short shots are difficult to anticipate, especially in a sport shot league.  I like to ball down until I can't any longer, but it will depend on how others play it.  Too often I see THS bowlers unable to push their breakpoint outside beyond 5.  This could make any moves inside unpredictable.

Impending Doom

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Re: Playing the Sydney pattern
« Reply #2 on: May 12, 2014, 11:56:09 AM »
I'm bowling a tournament on Sydney and Mexico City in a couple of weeks and am not so worried about Mexico City, but super worried about Sydney. Got a Desert Hook waiting in the wings for this pattern. The lanes make every pattern seem about 2-3 feet shorter.

MI 2 AZ

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Re: Playing the Sydney pattern
« Reply #3 on: May 12, 2014, 12:02:55 PM »
Gizmo, I think you have the right ideas about the pattern.  You are a higher skilled bowler than I am, but here is what I found.

For me, I found the best line to be about the four board.  Weaker equipment, symmetrical, surface about 2k or higher.  My best reaction came from a Visionary Blue Warlock with a 2" pin to PAP layout.  I only bowled on a singles league with four bowlers on a pair so I did not really experience much transition but I could increase my speed a bit to hold the line.  Most of the other bowlers were playing to the left of me (and struggling) so I had the area to the right of the first arrow all to myself.

From what I had read on the pattern, it was suggested to watch the other bowlers where they were playing and what type of equipment.  Stronger, newer balls with surface would remove oil from the pattern and plastic or urethane would push oil down, so when changing pairs, observe the bowlers on the next pair.  It was also suggested to use symmetrical medium balls about 2K.
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Gizmo823

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Re: Playing the Sydney pattern
« Reply #4 on: May 12, 2014, 12:37:11 PM »
Ok.  I have a polished Covert Revolt I'm planning on starting with.  I also have a Tribal, but I think that's going to be too sensitive, but maybe I'll be surprised.  The Revolt is so smooth off the dry that even if I have to go higher on the speed, I still think it will give me a good look. The paying attention to who is in front of you is a great tip, that always saves me a lot of problems.  On Autobahn I was playing behind a chick throwing a 1k grit Antics right down 7, so I just bumped her track all day long. 

Most of the reason I'm asking too is because this is a Jr Gold prep league for youth bowlers, but since it's hard to simulate the kind of competition they're going to see there or have kids with enough experience to teach the others, I talked to the guy running the league about having some adults bowl.  That way instead of the kids looking around and seeing everyone else struggling too and using that as an excuse or lowering their standards, they'll (hopefully) see the adults doing well, and the adults should be able to explain why they were able to be more successful.  Should challenge them and push them without discouraging them, but at the same time I don't think any of us adults (there are only a few of us) would be able to compete against some of the top youth at Jr Gold.  At least it's some perspective and hopefully a good teaching tool, but honestly there are several of them that are excited about having a chance to shoe up against some of the adults. 

Part of doing well is research.  A lot will put in the practice time, but won't put in the book time.  I want to be able to tell them that I did more than just look at a lane graph for a few seconds before league starts.  I don't want them to use the, "well you're an adult, you should be better anyway," line.  Hope to show them exactly what goes into being better. 
What would you be if you were attached to another object by an inclined plane, wrapped helically around an axis?

itsallaboutme

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Re: Playing the Sydney pattern
« Reply #5 on: May 12, 2014, 01:33:40 PM »
If you are able to play 10 to 5 then the lanes are worn to the point that the pattern isn't playing like it should.  If you play there you are playing in a totally flat portion of the pattern.  Ideally your ball should be right of 5 at the arrows, peeling it off the gutter.  Use a smooth reacting ball and manipulate your hand to be able to stand on top of it and play straight through the front of the lane and just let the ball roll up.

Impending Doom

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Re: Playing the Sydney pattern
« Reply #6 on: May 12, 2014, 02:22:17 PM »
From what I've seen of my grip it with a 2 inch pin to pap, it should work well on the fresh, then just ball down.

Gizmo823

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Re: Playing the Sydney pattern
« Reply #7 on: May 12, 2014, 02:36:08 PM »
Yeah they are.  Everything plays drier by several boards here, about 14 year old surface, and I don't think it's ever been touched. 

If you are able to play 10 to 5 then the lanes are worn to the point that the pattern isn't playing like it should.  If you play there you are playing in a totally flat portion of the pattern.  Ideally your ball should be right of 5 at the arrows, peeling it off the gutter.  Use a smooth reacting ball and manipulate your hand to be able to stand on top of it and play straight through the front of the lane and just let the ball roll up.
What would you be if you were attached to another object by an inclined plane, wrapped helically around an axis?