What do you do when you just can't carry?  As an example, for the past year I've hit the pocket very well but I don't strike.  It's either a stone 8 or 9, a ringing 10 or a lot of 4 pins.  Last week I had eight 9 pin hits and one strike in the first nine frames of the first game.  I have a lot of clean games and wind up in the 180's because I can't seem to strike.  I'm bowling in four alleys (travel league) and two are dry and two vary from medium to slick.  My equipment goes from an Ebonite Warrior Elite, Track Lx05, Ebonite Cyclone and a Blue Hammer urethane.  I've also got a Track Mx05 but I don't use it much as I don't see a lot of difference between it and the Cyclone. 

If it will help any, I'm old with slow speed (12-14) and average revs.  I'm throwing 14lb. equipment most of which is drilled with the pins about 4 to 4 1/2 " from my pap and most are about 1" above the ring finger.  The thumb has 1/8" reverse.  I usually use a cocked wrist release.  Because I tend to hook the ball quite a bit, I have most of the balls polished.  Did I mention that I'm old.  Also, I use a Robby's Plus glove without the metal palm insert.  I am usually a good spare bowler. 

Anyway, I could use some advise as to what I might try to start throwing strikes.  As I mentioned, I'm old and time is of the essence.

Thanks for reading my post.

for me; when I cant seem to carry and my 9 counts are leaving an assortment of the pins in the back row, I started to move forward or backwards on the approach.  Some times that is enough to change the entry angle enough to carry.

Any videos of you on youtube?

Pin up or pin down means very little. Pin to pap and mb to pap matters. Entry angle and the phase the ball is in upon entering the pocket matters. Anyone telling you why you are not carrying without seeing the particular shot is just guessing.

Part of bowling is learning to understand why you did not strike. Find someone that understands ball reaction and get them to help you to learn what to look for so that you can make intelligent judgments about adjustments you need to make during the course of a game.

Quote from: northface28 on February 19, 2016, 10:41:02 PM

Im no ball motion expert, but lots of 9 pins and ringing 10s is too much angle/drive.

Along with the above, I'd also suggest this, based on my use of 14s, along with several drillings over the past 4 years or so:

Pins over drillings tend, for me, (also old and also lower ball speed with higher revs) tend to go too long and have very late ball reactions, despite surface changes. For the 95% case, I tend to have better ball reactions with pins no higher than in either ring finger hole, but generally just below the level of the fingers. Remember that 14 lb. balls tend to have higher RGs to begin with, besides their lower ball weight allowing you to throw them faster than your old 15s. You need to balance ideas, like this, with coverstock strength and surface for the amount of oil you bowl on.

On top of all this, you need to hit the dry at the right angle and at the right spot.

All those leaves: 4 pins, weak and ringing 10 pins, 9 pins all point to either you're playing the wrong line or you're using the wrong ball/drilling/surface. I'm surprised you haven't also been leaving some pocket 7-10s.

Thanks so much.  I agree about the drillings but it's a little expensive to have all the balls redrilled.  So, I think I'll work on the surface's and maybe get rid of the polish.  At least it's worth a try. I've already changed the surface on my Track Lx05 to 3000 and I'll try that out this Monday to see how it works.  Thanks again.

Thanks to all who replied. 

My 300c pearl was leaving a metric crapton of 9 counts because the ball never got out of the hook phase into a roll. 9 pins, 4 pins, ringing 10s... I think the surface was 4000+ polish when I put it in the closet. I just pulled it out and threw it in the bag. I hit the surface with a worn 4000 pad and now it bleeds off energy correctly, allowing it to get into a roll. Is it possible you are dealing with the same thing?

The problem is that your different leaves have different causes.  8's are pure flukes. 4's and 9's are either a bit high or the ball is finishing too hard on high pocket hits. Move left a board.  10's are the toughest.  Most are caused by too much deflection.  In today's high friction environment it is usually the ball burning off energy too soon. Hook and entry angle do no good if the side roll is used up .