Some thoughts:
- The ball would probably not flare, if it weren't encountering some friction.

- Shark patterns, like all the PBA patterns, can vary a lot according to the lane machine and the lane surface.

- You can try sanding it with a green or a grey pad to get a smooth 600 or 800 grit surface. Then see how it reacts and what the flare patterns looks like.

It's hard to say without a comparing it to a ball that is working.
- What type of release do you have (nothing in profile)?
- Has this ball worked on the Shark pattern before?
- What is its current surface?
- How is it drilled?

* The blue World Class, the solid particle, is a relatively strong oiler. For most people I'd expect some movement on a Shark-type pattern, UNLESS you have very high ball speed OR a high ball speed/rev rate ratio or plain low revs.

There are many other possibilities. Without more info, I can't draw any conclusions.
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
Unofficial Ballreviews.com FAQ

Edited on 7/13/2008 9:36 PM

Does the ball typically flare on other conditions? If so, are you playing the lane on shark with a much straighter angle than on other conditions?

Shark tends to make the average bowler square up more than "normal", that is to say, more than on a house shot. When you square some bowlers up, it changes their release, sometimes greatly reducing their tilt.  When you change your tilt, you change your PAP.  When you change your PAP, you change your PAP to pin (on ball) distance. When you change your PAP to pin distance, you change your ball's flare potential.

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J.J. "Waterola Kid" Anderson, the bLowling King  : Kill the back row

The easiest way to tell the difference is just to closely watch the ball travel down the lane (especially if you have colored inserts, a ball with a distinct color pattern, or a piece of tape on the PAP).  If it picks up a roll and begins flaring early, then quits, it's burning up.  If it struggles to pick up a roll and flare, it's struggling to find friction.

I've had a couple times where someone told me "you're right on top of the friction, the ball's burning up!" after coming in light a couple shots in a row.  I can tell the difference -- I told them "no, it's not," and changed my hand position and moved right a couple boards.  The next shot was pure flush and the ball picked up earlier.  There was more oil and carrydown than normal and with a lot of axis rotation, the ball was pushing too long and not able to grab the lane.  The person watching couldn't tell the difference, but I knew better because I know my own game and know what kind of ball reaction I like.