Author Topic: Rubbing Alcohol (Read 4474 times)

rosanj06 · « **on:** April 07, 2009, 05:28:23 AM »

I have heard that rubbing alcohol can actually push oil into the ball, while actual ball cleaners help to extract it. I had a bottle of windex that I wa using and I just refilled the bottle with some rubbing alcohol. Is it a bad idea to be using rubbing alcohol?

I also poured a little bit of ball cleaner into the windex bottle. This special mixture has so many purposes, it especially cleans the beer pong table well after a long night

But really, will this be bad for my rocks in the long run?

charlest · « **Reply #16 on:** April 08, 2009, 07:26:02 PM »

quote:
what about windex?

What about it? It is not a bowling ball cleaner.
If you need to be frugal, mix Simple Green with isopropyl alcohol 50/50, as you have already been told. Otherwise, buy a good bowling ball cleaner, like Valentino's Remedy.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Edited on 4/11/2009 10:39 AM

DukeHarding · « **Reply #17 on:** April 11, 2009, 10:27:59 AM »

quote:
quote:
what about windex?

Don't use Windex Windex like most house old cleaners is fat or oil based, the idea of cleaning the ball is to take oil OFF not put it back ON.

Use Rubbing alchohol, ball cleaner, or just hot water
--------------------
''If their is a life after death,
then their is no death,
and if their is no death,
we do not live''

Progressive Metal Band
EVERGREY

MainzerPower

When Windex was invented in 1933 by Harry R. Drackett, it was essentially 100% solvent, and as a flammable product, it had to be sold in metal cans. When modern surfactants were introduced after World War II, the product was reformulated.

The Sam Wise patent #3,463,735 lists several example formulae, one of which is 4.0% isopropyl alcohol (a highly volatile solvent) 1% ethylene glycol monobutyl ether (a less volatile solvent), 0.1% sodium laurel sulfate (a surfactant), 0.01% tetrasodium pyrophosphate (a water softener), 0.05% of 28% ammonia, 1% of a dye solution, and 0.01% perfume. This formula was not only significantly less expensive to manufacture, but allowed the product to be packaged in glass bottles and dispensed with a plastic sprayer.

SC Johnson acquired Windex in 1993 and has been manufacturing it since that time.

The product was recently reformulated with more environmentally-desirable solvents.
--------------------
Duke Harding

"Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about."

DukeHarding · « **Reply #18 on:** April 11, 2009, 10:31:40 AM »

quote:
acetone is banned from way back when people took polyester/plastic balls and soaked it in buckets of acetone to soften the ball up. The acetone would soften the cover and basically rubberize the ball so that it was like a tire and have a larger footprint on the lane..
--------------------
16-17 mph,350 rpm,PAP 5 1/2 x 3/8up, HighGame 300 x 3, High Series 782
Book Average 215 / 205,PBA Xperience ave180

The solution, was MEKâ€”methyl ethyl ketone. It is a solvent, others were also used. Pros used it to soften plastic bowling balls. But MEK is also toxic and highly flammable. Breathing it can cause brain damage.

It was banned because players were soaking balls in their hotel/motel rooms, causing unsafe conditions.
--------------------
Duke Harding

"Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about."

StrokerCT1 · « **Reply #19 on:** April 11, 2009, 10:59:28 AM »

Denatured alcohol is the primary ingredient in many ball cleaners,
just look at the label. I think that many of these posts are from
people who profit from selling very expensive ball cleaners
when the same thing can be bought at any hardware store for
a fraction of the price.

VIXIV · « **Reply #20 on:** April 11, 2009, 11:09:01 AM »

quote:
If you need to be frugal, mix Simple Green with isopropyl alcohol 50/50, as you have already been told. Otherwise, buy a good bowling ball cleaner, like Valentino's Remedy.

DukeHarding · « **Reply #21 on:** April 11, 2009, 11:24:20 AM »

quote:
Denatured alcohol is the primary ingredient in many ball cleaners,
just look at the label. I think that many of these posts are from
people who profit from selling very expensive ball cleaners
when the same thing can be bought at any hardware store for
a fraction of the price.

Denatured alcohol is not on the approved list, though.

I've never seen an ingredients list on a ball cleaner...otherwise, we could duplicate the product at home.

--------------------
Duke Harding

"Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about."

charlest · « **Reply #22 on:** April 11, 2009, 12:29:20 PM »

Duke,

I'm not sure if you're negating what was said about Denatured ethyl being on the label for some cleaners. It was on several of Storm's labels a few (2-4) years back. However you're right in that, a full list of ingredients are never listed on any cleaner. One goes so far as to put this on the label:
"Formula contains items considered to be a Trade Secret and are withheld with the provisions of 1910.1200 of Title 29 of the code of Federal Regulations (USA). Contains nohazardous components as listed in 29 CFR 1900.1200 or other pertinent sections of OSHA regulations."

By the way, it seems that most of the really good, everyday, bowling ball cleaners available seem (to my eyes and nose and feel) to be water based. I include in that list
- Valentino's Remedy RX
- Neo-Tac's/Brunswick's Liquid Nitro
- Ultimate's Rejuvenator
- ZappIt
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

DukeHarding · « **Reply #23 on:** April 11, 2009, 12:49:11 PM »

quote:
Duke,

I'm not sure if you're negating what was said about Denatured ethyl being on the label for some cleaners. It was on several of Storm's labels a few (2-4) years back. However you're right in that, a full list of ingredients are never listed on any cleaner. One goes so far as to put this on the label:
"Formula contains items considered to be a Trade Secret and are withheld with the provisions of 1910.1200 of Title 29 of the code of Federal Regulations (USA). Contains nohazardous components as listed in 29 CFR 1900.1200 or other pertinent sections of OSHA regulations."

By the way, it seems that most of the really good, everyday, bowling ball cleaners available seem (to my eyes and nose and feel) to be water based. I include in that list
- Valentino's Remedy RX
- Neo-Tac's/Brunswick's Liquid Nitro
- Ultimate's Rejuvenator
- ZappIt
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

charlest,

I've never seen a ball cleaner/polish label with ingredients listed.
Though, I've never seen or used any of Storm's cleaners, polishes.

I like Valentino's products, I agree with your assessment of there being water-based, or at least less harmful than ACETONE and MEK to the end-user.

Off topic: I just received my order of UFO...how have you used it, and what have you usedit on?

TIA,
--------------------
Duke Harding

"Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about."

charlest · « **Reply #24 on:** April 11, 2009, 01:36:20 PM »

Duke,

I used UFO on a Storm Hot Rod and a Brunswick Red/Black Monster. It made them both go 2-4 feet longer, reduced their overall hook to allow me to play 5/6 boards further right with my feet and 2-4 boards further outside with my target. It also allowed me to have to NOT throw so hard because it alwso reduced their backend, by 3 - 4 boards.

I tested the Black/Red Monster at 800 grit US and the Hot Rod at 4000 grit Abralon.

--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Easy10pins · « **Reply #25 on:** April 11, 2009, 02:09:21 PM »

quote:

I've never seen a ball cleaner/polish label with ingredients listed.

A part of me thinks it's due to trade secrets.

Another part of me thinks it's because the makers don't want us to know that we already have those ingredients in our kitchens.

--------------------
The bowler formerly known as BrunsRod.
Solid 7 Pin?? 299 Game??!! WTF

DukeHarding · « **Reply #26 on:** April 11, 2009, 02:43:34 PM »

quote:
Duke,

I used UFO on a Storm Hot Rod and a Brunswick Red/Black Monster. It made them both go 2-4 feet longer, reduced their overall hook to allow me to play 5/6 boards further right with my feet and 2-4 boards further outside with my target. It also allowed me to have to NOT throw so hard because it alwso reduced their backend, by 3 - 4 boards.

I tested the Black/Red Monster at 800 grit US and the Hot Rod at 4000 grit Abralon.

--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

That sounds promising...I have shoulder injuries, and by the middle of the 2nd game, I can't get anything I have to go long enough...and I can't pick ball speed up enough right now...and can't move my target inside 17-18...

I might try it on my Street Rod Solid, and Rapid Fire Solid.

Thanks,
--------------------
Duke Harding

"Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about."

Buddy Christ · « **Reply #27 on:** April 11, 2009, 02:46:18 PM »

quote:
quote:

I've never seen a ball cleaner/polish label with ingredients listed.

A part of me thinks it's due to trade secrets.

Another part of me thinks it's because the makers don't want us to know that we already have those ingredients in our kitchens.
--------------------
The bowler formerly known as BrunsRod.
Solid 7 Pin?? 299 Game??!! WTF

This.
--------------------
U.S.M.C.
My god carries a hammer. Your god died nailed to a tree. Any questions?
Live By It.

chipmunkbowler · « **Reply #28 on:** April 11, 2009, 03:18:33 PM »

a way i have learned is to pour a bowl of hot water (as hot that can come out of your bathroom faucet) deep enough to put your ball in but not submerge it.

place your ball in there and move it around so as much area is covered with the water without the inserts coming into the water (it will weaken the adhesive)

when as much area is covered take it right out wipe with a clean towel.

then repeat using cold water

-the hot water opens up the pours
-wiping removes oil that comes to the surface
-repeating with cold water closes pours back up

WARNING: have your ball in hot water for as little time as possible within reason of course

this gets lots of oil out of my ball

Locke · « **Reply #29 on:** April 11, 2009, 03:35:22 PM »

quote:
a way i have learned is to pour a bowl of hot water (as hot that can come out of your bathroom faucet) deep enough to put your ball in but not submerge it.

place your ball in there and move it around so as much area is covered with the water without the inserts coming into the water (it will weaken the adhesive)

when as much area is covered take it right out wipe with a clean towel.

then repeat using cold water

-the hot water opens up the pours
-wiping removes oil that comes to the surface
-repeating with cold water closes pours back up

WARNING: have your ball in hot water for as little time as possible within reason of course

this gets lots of oil out of my ball

There is actually no need to do it again with the cold water. Doing it again with the cold water shocks the plastics and makes them more brittle. Thus more likely to crack. If you allow the ball to cool slowly with the air the pores will close back up as a function of chemistry. What you re doing with the hot water is expanding the structure of the plastic. This structure will always be the same size and shape at a particular temp. I would really recommend not using the cold water.
--------------------
Always be sincere, even when you don't mean it

The Cell Pimp

Steven · « **Reply #30 on:** April 11, 2009, 10:02:16 PM »

quote:
- Neo-Tac's/Brunswick's Liquid Nitro

Brunswick purchased Neo-Tac? Disappointing -- very disappointing.

Time to look for new cleaners....

Author Topic: Rubbing Alcohol (Read 4474 times)

rosanj06

Rubbing Alcohol

charlest

Re: Rubbing Alcohol

DukeHarding

Re: Rubbing Alcohol

DukeHarding

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StrokerCT1

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VIXIV

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DukeHarding

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charlest

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DukeHarding

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charlest

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Easy10pins

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DukeHarding

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Buddy Christ

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chipmunkbowler

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Locke

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Steven

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