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Author Topic: Scorched backends..........  (Read 2297 times)

NY Mike

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Scorched backends..........
« on: June 06, 2008, 06:15:46 AM »
Recently moved to a new bowling center due to closing of the old. First 2 weeks of the summer league have been a disaster as I have not been able to
overcome the hook crazed backends.  I have able to get some length from various angles up 5, crossing 20 but the backends have been the death of me.
I am using a polished Saturn (too strong), Mystic both balls drilled pin up.  
Any ball suggestions for conquering scorched backends.
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shelley

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Re: Scorched backends..........
« Reply #1 on: June 06, 2008, 02:37:51 PM »
Try using equipment that's not quite so backend-y.  Dull equipment, particle covers, or early-rolling layouts.  Or all of them.  If you can go pretty straight, a pin-axis ball will really tame down the backends.  Highly polished stuff is gonna fly if the backends are really toasty, you want to bleed energy off so that the ball doesn't over-react.

SH
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stormfanken

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Re: Scorched backends..........
« Reply #2 on: June 06, 2008, 02:43:14 PM »
I think Shelly is right, I would go with the early rolling layouts myself. I dont think I would mess with a dull ball. I would just have something drilled to roll early.
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Locke

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Re: Scorched backends..........
« Reply #3 on: June 06, 2008, 02:48:40 PM »
Yeah, you have only skid flip layouts. You could try bringing the Saturn back to OOB. That should help. You can also look at getting a Pluto if you like Roto. Even a Cell drilled early will give you better control. We had a center like that around her and my Spit Fire out hooked my Cell by 8 boards there. And if all else fails just drop some hand out of the ball and you will get under control.
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Dan Belcher

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Re: Scorched backends..........
« Reply #4 on: June 06, 2008, 03:01:59 PM »
Stronger, rolly equipment is great.  The other thing that really helps is changing your release to avoid sharp change of direction.  Come up the back of the ball and tumble it more.  You'll get great pin action and tame down the backends.  (Watch Norm Duke's televised 300 game game on Youtube when he was basically throwing his aggressive equipment with practically a spareball type release)

quote:
We had a center like that around her and my Spit Fire out hooked my Cell by 8 boards there.
I went to a tournament a couple months ago that had freshly oiled lanes.  They apparently double-stripped and put down a shorter pattern.  I threw my polished Spit Fire in practice down the track area to see what the lanes were like -- it went straight and then just looked like somebody kicked it left and I picked off the 4-7-8.  
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RSalas

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Re: Scorched backends..........
« Reply #5 on: June 06, 2008, 03:03:46 PM »
I've had some success recently taming front-to-back wet-dry conditions with an Avalanche Pearl.  Surprisingly smooth reaction off of the spot.
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CoachLefty

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Re: Scorched backends..........
« Reply #6 on: June 06, 2008, 03:29:11 PM »
drill something solid with a 6" pin to pap and keep some surface on it.  Best way I have found to control flying backends.
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NY Mike

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Re: Scorched backends..........
« Reply #7 on: June 06, 2008, 03:43:58 PM »
Would anyone suggest a negative drilling, say pin above middle finger
for right hander ?
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BrianCRX90

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Re: Scorched backends..........
« Reply #8 on: June 06, 2008, 06:53:44 PM »
No no no. I have a Mercury I have been using lately and I consider that my drier lane ball. It's really a pearl version of the Saturn except mine is 1000 Abarlon with a medium grit hand polish on it drilled with the fingers below the pin and the CG kicked to the right. Basically is the same ball as your Saturn. On drier lane conditions this ball will seem like a monster if the lanes are flying. I found this out last week when my center didn't oil the lanes before the first night of league. My Storm Gravity Shift was 3 times stronger on this fried condition so decided to put it away.

There is a lot of people on this board that will tell you to "get this ball" and whatever and there is nothing wrong with that. There is actually nothing wrong with your Saturn since I've thrown that ball and find it similar to my Mercury so it can be used on drier conditions. However, if you have the rotation and some revs and it seems like you are getting too uncomfortable because the ball is still hooking too much you have two options with the ball you have:
Stand left, and then more left and if you have to drift or stand in front of the ball return (if your a right handed bowler on the right lane) and loft it hard over the gutter cap and on the left lane stand on the 50 board if you have to.
The other option is stand right and throw it straighter or very direct with nearly no hand at all. I think a perfect example of doing this is Norm Duke. He can hook it inside and hook the whole lane but he isn't Robert Smith so he isn't going to loft the cap but he can stand far right and throw it straight and accurate like no one else on tour.

The big problem on this board I keep seeing is they think a ball will solve all their problems. Again, I have no problem with having an arsenal. But it does get to the point where you are going to have to be versatile and learn to play straighter if you want to be a good bowler. Now some can get away with it and throw their normal ball but there is a good portion that can't. If I see in practice I have to force it standing on the 30 board to hold pocket cranking it then that has become an obvious sign I'm not going to stand on 40 all night without my options of standing right and throwing straight. I see league bowlers over and over again struggle on dry lanes, wet lanes or tough lanes because they are a one trick pony. I have been a victim of this many times.
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Brian Green

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Re: Scorched backends..........
« Reply #9 on: June 06, 2008, 09:50:01 PM »
in my honest opinion based on personal expierence:  there are 4 options that may work......

    Number one......  Take some hand out of the ball (lower your revs)
    number two......  Pick your speed up
    number 3........   Sand the ball down to a very fine grit like 4000 abralon
    number 4.........   use weaker layouts.......





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shelley

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Re: Scorched backends..........
« Reply #10 on: June 06, 2008, 10:19:19 PM »
quote:
Would anyone suggest a negative drilling, say pin above middle finger
for right hander ?


I'd got for surface, surface, surface first.  Doesn't cost but a fraction of a new ball or a plug and redrill.

If the pattern is shorter in addition to the flying backends, a polish with a slip agent in it like Powerhouse (nee Track) Delayed Reaction and Legends Extended Length Polish.  Those will increase length and reduce backend reaction, unlike most polishes typical polishes which increase reaction off the dry boards.

SH
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NY Mike

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Re: Scorched backends..........
« Reply #11 on: June 09, 2008, 07:51:13 AM »
Any opinions on the negative drilling ?
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CoachLefty

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Re: Scorched backends..........
« Reply #12 on: June 09, 2008, 08:13:41 AM »
quote:
Any opinions on the negative drilling ?


Thats the drillings I use for short and dry patterns.  Changing surface is all fine, but sometimes you can't get the surface right and everything flies off your hand.  I like to use negative drillings to keep the ball from starting up to early and can still keep some surface on the ball as well.
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Grayson

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Re: Scorched backends..........
« Reply #13 on: June 09, 2008, 08:21:07 AM »
quote:
Try using equipment that's not quite so backend-y.  Dull equipment, particle covers, or early-rolling layouts.  Or all of them.  If you can go pretty straight, a pin-axis ball will really tame down the backends.  Highly polished stuff is gonna fly if the backends are really toasty, you want to bleed energy off so that the ball doesn't over-react.

SH


same here... we have a new center with brand new AMF lanes and those are flying...

my stronger particle pearl at 1000grit is scoring better than my weaker pearl reactive (same layout!) with a higher polished surface.
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NY Mike

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Re: Scorched backends..........
« Reply #14 on: June 09, 2008, 08:32:03 AM »
Coach /  Grayson:  Had the opportunity to throw Temper with a negative drilling
that one seemed to go fairly long without the over-reaction.  Any thoughts ?
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