Post by: NY Mike on June 06, 2008, 06:15:46 AM
overcome the hook crazed backends. I have able to get some length from various angles up 5, crossing 20 but the backends have been the death of me.
I am using a polished Saturn (too strong), Mystic both balls drilled pin up.
Any ball suggestions for conquering scorched backends.
Post by: shelley on June 06, 2008, 02:37:51 PM
SH
Post by: stormfanken on June 06, 2008, 02:43:14 PM
Post by: Locke on June 06, 2008, 02:48:40 PM
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Always be sincere, even when you don't mean it
Known Cell pimp
Post by: Dan Belcher on June 06, 2008, 03:01:59 PM
quote:I went to a tournament a couple months ago that had freshly oiled lanes. They apparently double-stripped and put down a shorter pattern. I threw my polished Spit Fire in practice down the track area to see what the lanes were like -- it went straight and then just looked like somebody kicked it left and I picked off the 4-7-8.
We had a center like that around her and my Spit Fire out hooked my Cell by 8 boards there.
Post by: RSalas on June 06, 2008, 03:03:46 PM
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Post by: CoachLefty on June 06, 2008, 03:29:11 PM
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Go Balls Deep
Lefty
Post by: NY Mike on June 06, 2008, 03:43:58 PM
for right hander ?
Post by: BrianCRX90 on June 06, 2008, 06:53:44 PM
There is a lot of people on this board that will tell you to "get this ball" and whatever and there is nothing wrong with that. There is actually nothing wrong with your Saturn since I've thrown that ball and find it similar to my Mercury so it can be used on drier conditions. However, if you have the rotation and some revs and it seems like you are getting too uncomfortable because the ball is still hooking too much you have two options with the ball you have:
Stand left, and then more left and if you have to drift or stand in front of the ball return (if your a right handed bowler on the right lane) and loft it hard over the gutter cap and on the left lane stand on the 50 board if you have to.
The other option is stand right and throw it straighter or very direct with nearly no hand at all. I think a perfect example of doing this is Norm Duke. He can hook it inside and hook the whole lane but he isn't Robert Smith so he isn't going to loft the cap but he can stand far right and throw it straight and accurate like no one else on tour.
The big problem on this board I keep seeing is they think a ball will solve all their problems. Again, I have no problem with having an arsenal. But it does get to the point where you are going to have to be versatile and learn to play straighter if you want to be a good bowler. Now some can get away with it and throw their normal ball but there is a good portion that can't. If I see in practice I have to force it standing on the 30 board to hold pocket cranking it then that has become an obvious sign I'm not going to stand on 40 all night without my options of standing right and throwing straight. I see league bowlers over and over again struggle on dry lanes, wet lanes or tough lanes because they are a one trick pony. I have been a victim of this many times.
Post by: Brian Green on June 06, 2008, 09:50:01 PM
Number one...... Take some hand out of the ball (lower your revs)
number two...... Pick your speed up
number 3........ Sand the ball down to a very fine grit like 4000 abralon
number 4......... use weaker layouts.......
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"USAbowlersmart.com - only the best Survive"
Post by: shelley on June 06, 2008, 10:19:19 PM
quote:
Would anyone suggest a negative drilling, say pin above middle finger
for right hander ?
I'd got for surface, surface, surface first. Doesn't cost but a fraction of a new ball or a plug and redrill.
If the pattern is shorter in addition to the flying backends, a polish with a slip agent in it like Powerhouse (nee Track) Delayed Reaction and Legends Extended Length Polish. Those will increase length and reduce backend reaction, unlike most polishes typical polishes which increase reaction off the dry boards.
SH
Post by: NY Mike on June 09, 2008, 07:51:13 AM
Post by: CoachLefty on June 09, 2008, 08:13:41 AM
quote:
Any opinions on the negative drilling ?
Thats the drillings I use for short and dry patterns. Changing surface is all fine, but sometimes you can't get the surface right and everything flies off your hand. I like to use negative drillings to keep the ball from starting up to early and can still keep some surface on the ball as well.
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Go Balls Deep
Lefty
Post by: Grayson on June 09, 2008, 08:21:07 AM
quote:
Try using equipment that's not quite so backend-y. Dull equipment, particle covers, or early-rolling layouts. Or all of them. If you can go pretty straight, a pin-axis ball will really tame down the backends. Highly polished stuff is gonna fly if the backends are really toasty, you want to bleed energy off so that the ball doesn't over-react.
SH
same here... we have a new center with brand new AMF lanes and those are flying...
my stronger particle pearl at 1000grit is scoring better than my weaker pearl reactive (same layout!) with a higher polished surface.
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Post by: NY Mike on June 09, 2008, 08:32:03 AM
that one seemed to go fairly long without the over-reaction. Any thoughts ?
Post by: JohnP on June 09, 2008, 10:56:18 AM
Post by: NY Mike on June 09, 2008, 03:10:29 PM
Post by: CoachLefty on June 09, 2008, 03:19:01 PM
quote:
Coach / Grayson: Had the opportunity to throw Temper with a negative drilling
that one seemed to go fairly long without the over-reaction. Any thoughts ?
That is the reaction that I like on flying backends. Long pin to pap layouts allow you to get some more length and yet leave some surface on the ball, so that it doesnt snap on the backend.
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Go Balls Deep
Lefty
Post by: NY Mike on June 09, 2008, 03:22:59 PM