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Author Topic: Scuffing a Ball to keep it working  (Read 5064 times)

trash heap

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Scuffing a Ball to keep it working
« on: April 09, 2014, 12:44:57 PM »
Last night I was able to take one of my daughters out to practice. She is on the High School Team, the season is over and I thought she should focus on release. She is throwing a 14lb Wrath. The bowl is drilled to go early.

Well after several warm-up frames, she gets to throwing the ball. (She is bowling on a Fresh House Shot). I am seeing some revs on her ball but it is not reacting. So I try an experiment. I have a green scotch-brite pad with me. I scuff the ball real quick. BAM! The ball starts hooking.

After about 1/2 a game, same thing happens again. The ball doesn't make its turn. Scuff it again. BAM AGAIN! Ball is making a good turn to the pocket.

So this goes on for 3 games.

The ball was dull to begin with. Probably around 3000 Grit. I just never seen such a dramatic change, just from lightly scuffing a ball immediately.

Has anyone experienced something like this?

Next time we bowl, I was thinking of asking the pro shop to sand it to 800 grit. I think the ball's reaction will last longer if the surface done from a spinner.

Some other input: The ball was rarely used - probably no more than 15 games. It was her grandfather's ball, and he didn't like it.   
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charlest

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Re: Scuffing a Ball to keep it working
« Reply #1 on: April 09, 2014, 01:09:16 PM »
Just some info/suggestions to help a little:

- when was it taken to 3000 grit? That's fairly fine; it wouldn't take much bowling before it's no longer 3000.

- how long has she been using it dull? Could it need a de-oiling? Having to constantly rough up the surface can be a sign that it's slightly "clogged".

- green SB is 600 grit CAMI, which is roughly 1200 grit FEPA, the current standard. 1200 grit is fairly rough.

- Maybe the base grit under the 3000 grit (whatever that was) might need to re-applied?? Would a 500/3000 resurfacing help her? I can't say for sure - might, might not.
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trash heap

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Re: Scuffing a Ball to keep it working
« Reply #2 on: April 09, 2014, 01:45:36 PM »
Good points.

The 3000 was done about 3 months ago (13 weeks).

I found the receipt, we did 500 to 1000 then to 3000 (That was my request).

She hasn't bowled for something like 6 weeks.  In that first 7 weeks she was bowling probably 3 nights a week. Roughly about 3 games a night (light estimate). So at least 70 games on it. WOW! That added up fast!

I did clean the ball routinely after she was done each night.

It might be time to give it a bath and I will try the 500 - 3000 resurface.

Thanks.

Talkin' Trash!

charlest

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Re: Scuffing a Ball to keep it working
« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2014, 03:42:32 PM »
Good points.

The 3000 was done about 3 months ago (13 weeks).

I found the receipt, we did 500 to 1000 then to 3000 (That was my request).

She hasn't bowled for something like 6 weeks.  In that first 7 weeks she was bowling probably 3 nights a week. Roughly about 3 games a night (light estimate). So at least 70 games on it. WOW! That added up fast!

I did clean the ball routinely after she was done each night.

It might be time to give it a bath and I will try the 500 - 3000 resurface.

Thanks.



70 games at 3000 dull? I suspect it did absorb some oil and who knows what grit it has now. Of course, if she's speed dominant, rougher is better. If not, I'd suggest refreshing the 3000 grit by hand every 8 - 12 games or so.
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

avabob

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Re: Scuffing a Ball to keep it working
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2014, 08:56:54 PM »
There are two kinds of friction at work with resin balls.  One is physical that results from the abrasiveness of the shell.  The other is chemical that comes from the resin additive.  Scuffing the shell will increase the friction on the oil, but as you have found out, it is short lived.  Even a fairly aggressive scuff will still only last a few games, especially if the shell is oil soaked as is probably the case.  It is the resin that really gives the ball pop coming off the end of the oil.  My guess is the Wrath is both oil soaked and the resin is depleted over time.  Both of these situations minimize hook, and scuffing is a fleeting remedy.