BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: dmonroe814 on October 09, 2012, 12:48:20 PM
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Question: For short oil, i.e. cheetah or USBC Open Nationals shot. I was using a symetric polished ball. Had a line to the pocket but couldn't carry. Next day I used and agressive sanded ball from deep inside. I could carry, but paid full penalty for any slight miss. All of my dry lane balls are OOB polished. All are skid flip type balls. Should I sand these? C300 Scout Reactive/Brunswick Avalanche Pearl/old C300 Wrath High Flush Pearl. I was using a C300 Outburst polished at the Open last year and failed miserably. What type of balls are best for short oil? Symetric/Asymetric, Polished/sanded, entry level/high performance?
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For shorter oil shots, I like weak symmetric bowling balls with a large VAL angle and surface (1000-2000). The intent is to match the VAL angle (pin buffer) with the length of dry you will be seeing based on your stats. I personally have higher speed and rpms. Speed dominant bowlers may be able to use stronger equipment.
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Thanks, I am a tweener with a ball speed about 14.5 at the pins with about 325 revs. My Mid-range ball is a C300 outburst that I have taken to OOB. If the shot is short again this year, I may take it to 3000 and knock the polish off the Avalance Pearl. Is solid better than pearl on the short conditions?
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I like solids better than pearls. Even a sanded pearl can be a little snappy at the end of the pattern for me. But I am sure some can have success with surface on a pearl.
I hope others chime in with their experience.
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You want the ball to have an even roll and not run left when it sees dry. Also, being as you should be on the outside part of the lane (near 5 board) when the ball starts to make its move - you don't want the ball to snap late or it will finish behind the headpin.
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I echo what a lot of the others have said. You have to go against the natural instinct to go with something polished or something designed to go long and react strong at the back. If the pattern is truly short, you'll have plenty of time to get it back to the pocket once it leaves the end of the pattern. As such, you want to make sure the ball doesn't go dead left when it does. Using balls with some surface helps to mellow out the reaction at the end of the pattern. I personally like using symmetrical cores and surfaces around 2000, but that can certainly vary. Urethane isn't a bad choice on some of those shots as well. I know my Natural gave me an excellent look on the shorter PBA patterns during my summer sport league, and it actually gave me a really good look on the burn at USBC's as well.
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In layman's terms, I like pin-down balls with surface on these types of conditions. Symmetrical is probably better because you shouldn't need the ball trying to make unnecessary motion downlane (like a strong mass bias ball would try to do). The lane will hook the ball enough for you as it is.
I use something that rolls earlier because I want to bleed some energy before hitting the dry. I've had good looks with both dull solids and dull pearls on short patterns as long as they were pin down.
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There is a big difference between short oil and dry. Dry implies low volume of oil, so if you use anything thats dull it digs down though that thin little layer of oil and hooks early. Thats why you use shiny balls on patterns that have burned up. Polished balls store energy well until they see a lot of friction, and they very quickly transition and turn their energy into sideways motion.
On short oil, you want to slow down your reaction which could mean a few things... Any and all of these could help.
1. Weaker coverstocks - most (though not all) newer balls hook a lot, regardless of surface and drilling. There are some newer balls that use weak coverstocks and truly offer less overall hook potential. A favorite of mine here is to use a ball with lots of games that has not been well maintained and just doesnt hook as much as it used to.
2. Surface - Rough surfaces can dig down through more oil and hook earlier, but they also do not transition as quickly once your ball gets to the dry part of the lane, giving you more of an arc shape instead of a hockey stick.
3. Core/layout - using a lower differential core and/or a long pin-PAP distance can both cause a ball to flare less and not have as much overall hook. Another drilling option is to put the pin very close to the PAP, say 2 inches or less. This puts your ball in a very stable position right off your hand so it will not try to flip hard. This option can work better for players with higher axis rotation. I have a very forward roll and this layout does not match up well for me.
That being said, my favorite ball on a fresh short pattern is a Brunswick Wild Card, 5.5in pin-PAP drilling, surface at 1000 or 500.
Then, if the lanes start to transition and you need something to still get through the fronts, try to keep a weak coverstock and low differential ball with a little smoother surface, maybe 2000, then another option at 4000.
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You could try a Seismic Desperado...that ball was designed for short oil. I haven't had opportunity to use mine yet on a shorter fresh pattern--used it twice so far on my league shot. The cary is quite good, especially for a urethane.
Brad
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uh, since when is the USBC Nationals shot "short oil"?
Unless the pattern has been burned in singles & doubles, I have never heard it termed "short oil"!!!
And now, with re-oiling before every squad, even that shoulsn't be a factor.
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uh, since when is the USBC Nationals shot "short oil"?
Unless the pattern has been burned in singles & doubles, I have never heard it termed "short oil"!!!
And now, with re-oiling before every squad, even that shoulsn't be a factor.
Two years ago, it was 38. OK short for a house pattern, but I scored well with a C300 world beater. It was 36 feet this year and I had fresh oil for both squads.
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uh, since when is the USBC Nationals shot "short oil"?
Unless the pattern has been burned in singles & doubles, I have never heard it termed "short oil"!!!
And now, with re-oiling before every squad, even that shoulsn't be a factor.
Two years ago, it was 38. OK short for a house pattern, but I scored well with a C300 world beater. It was 36 feet this year and I had fresh oil for both squads.
It was 39' in Baton Rouge...
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uh, since when is the USBC Nationals shot "short oil"?
Unless the pattern has been burned in singles & doubles, I have never heard it termed "short oil"!!!
And now, with re-oiling before every squad, even that shoulsn't be a factor.
Two years ago, it was 38. OK short for a house pattern, but I scored well with a C300 world beater. It was 36 feet this year and I had fresh oil for both squads.
It was 39' in Baton Rouge...
Sorry, senior moment. I did well 2 years ago going straight up the 10 with a world beater. This year with a polished Outburst, I could get to the pocket but couldn't carry. Went fishing and paid full penalty for a 1 board miss. Making all my 10-pins doesn't really make that much difference when you leave 4-5 splits a game.
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Don Monroe,
I've put a post out on this link that I am not sure is relevant to the Nationals but from what I have seen may have some applicability to Cheetah!
I believe my house has inadvertantly put out a cheetah in our house that plays just like Cheetah at least on the left.
Take a look at my last post on this link here in Ballreviews
http://www.ballreviews.com/drilling-layouts/cgsmb-back-towards-the-grip-center-whatever-happened-to-those-old-label-drill-t288707.0.html;msg2352410;topicseen#new
Note, the answer is not label leveragedrills though those are working on the right for many of our successful righties.
REgards,
Luckylefty
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those types of drills work on short because with the pin in that strong of a position, the ball spends a lot of energy early before it hits the 25ft of dry down lane. so it is a very smooth controlled motion
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uh, since when is the USBC Nationals shot "short oil"?
Unless the pattern has been burned in singles & doubles, I have never heard it termed "short oil"!!!
And now, with re-oiling before every squad, even that shouldn't be a factor.
Two years ago, it was 38. OK short for a house pattern, but I scored well with a C300 world beater. It was 36 feet this year and I had fresh oil for both squads.
36 feet???
Yikes, that is short. I sit corrected. That could make for some very nasty transitions!
Good luck with it.
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I like balls with pins closer to my axis.
Recently it has been a Hell Raiser at 2000 abralon with the mass bias at 30 deg and the pin about 1.5" to my axis. In the past I had a dull slingshot drilled similarly.
Polish is not my first choice for playing near the gutter. I like seeing the ball burn energy sooner so it can roll in the back.
More surface does not necessarily mean more hook, it just means early roll which in my opinion keeps me out of trouble on shorter patterns