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Author Topic: Solid Reactives & Pearlized Reactives on Differing Surfaces?  (Read 1149 times)

scotts33

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Solid Reactives & Pearlized Reactives on Differing Surfaces?
« on: August 21, 2007, 10:14:32 PM »
Is there a correaltion in your mind of the use of solid reactives on say Brunswick Anivilane known to be a harder surface than the use of pearlized reactives which leave a smaller footprint?  

Do solids and particles work better on harder surfaces than pearlized balls for the most part or is that BS?  Do pearlized balls work better on worn wood surfaces than solids and particles?  Is there a correlation?  


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Scott

Scott

 

charlest

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Re: Solid Reactives & Pearlized Reactives on Differing Surfaces?
« Reply #1 on: August 22, 2007, 06:42:02 AM »
Scott,

When you're talking theoretically, the grippier coverstock will always work better on the slicker (lower friction) lane surfaces, like Anvillane. However, in specific cases or the practical side of bowling, it all depends on your release/delivery, ballspeed/rev rate ratio and the amount of oil the house uses. One of my regular houses has Anvillanes BUT has gone to a lower amount and shorter length of oil. This past year, except for some few weeks at the start if the season where I had use solid particles, for the most of the season I used resin pearls.


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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

scotts33

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Re: Solid Reactives & Pearlized Reactives on Differing Surfaces?
« Reply #2 on: August 22, 2007, 06:50:03 AM »
I agree Jeff.

Thinking back what has worked on specific houses in the last couple of years generally pearlized balls have worked better for me on worn older wood and solids whether at a more scuffed state like 1000 abralon or 1000 w/ polish over worked better than pearlized balls on harder synthetics on fresh conditions.

Wondered what others have seen???
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Scott

Scott

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Re: Solid Reactives & Pearlized Reactives on Differing Surfaces?
« Reply #3 on: August 22, 2007, 08:46:48 AM »
I always try a pearlized, or at least a polished solid, on wood lanes first.  The wood lanes are softer so the ball wants to start sooner, which is usually not good for pin carry.
As far as synthetics, I usually try a solid reactive first, then move to a pearl later if necessary, and only when I see pronounced carry-down do I ever think about the particle balls. Most of the synthetics I bowl on have PLENTY of oil, too.


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notclay

Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah



charlest

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Re: Solid Reactives & Pearlized Reactives on Differing Surfaces?
« Reply #4 on: August 22, 2007, 05:46:46 PM »
quote:
I always try a pearlized, or at least a polished solid, on wood lanes first.  The wood lanes are softer so the ball wants to start sooner, which is usually not good for pin carry.
As far as synthetics, I usually try a solid reactive first, then move to a pearl later if necessary, and only when I see pronounced carry-down do I ever think about the particle balls. Most of the synthetics I bowl on have PLENTY of oil, too.
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notclay
Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah



If you do not know a place, how they oil, etc, that is a very safe procedure. Nowadays most particle balls I have are lightly to highly polsihed and they act more like solids resins used to. Of course, there are exceptions.

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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Re: Solid Reactives & Pearlized Reactives on Differing Surfaces?
« Reply #5 on: August 22, 2007, 06:09:13 PM »
charlest,

I don't disagree with you. For my game the reactives just hit harder. One exception is the Sidewinder. Because of it's lower particle load, that ball will be much more versatile and easy to use.  The high load particle balls don't seem to match up well with me.  They are easy to get to the pocket, but hit like a marshmallow.  Even on the PBA Shark I had a much better look with my Wizard and Fury.


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notclay

Lane Carter, Strike Zone Pro Shops - Salt Lake City, Utah