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Author Topic: spare ball question + figjam  (Read 5124 times)

Ragnar

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spare ball question + figjam
« on: October 04, 2011, 04:01:03 AM »
Does it really make any difference what spare ball you have?  I'm probably going to order a plastic ball from whoever sells cheapest, but after talking with a very good senior bowler Sunday I'm considering a urethane.
Does anyone use urethane for spares?  Is there any reason to go with one plastic ball rather than another, other than price?
 
figjam - I'm currently leading the Washington State Seniors tournament in singles.  whoo hoo!


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bullred

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Re: spare ball question + figjam
« Reply #1 on: October 04, 2011, 12:07:46 PM »
an older urethane ball shined up is a good double purpose ball.  Watch out for newer urethane balls, they are aggressive.. A polyester ball with a "core" might be a good choice.    In a pinch each would be good as a dry lane ball.



Juggernaut

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Re: spare ball question + figjam
« Reply #2 on: October 04, 2011, 12:20:27 PM »
Compared to some of the "resin bombs" out there today, a urethane does go straighter, but don't let that fool you.

 

 There is a reason the professionals on television use plastic instead of urethane, and that is because polished plastic is about as low friction a surface as you can find in bowling these days, which means it goes where you throw it with less directional change than any other surface out there.

 

 That being said, I used my RotoGrip urethane Grenade for spares a lot. I have trouble throwing directly straight at spares, and tend to throw it a touch wide. The Grenade has just enough bite to hold it on line without having so much movement that it makes me miss the spare shot.

 

 I know my reply sounds like a paradox, but its not. I'm not nearly as accurate at throwing straight at spares as lots of people can do, and I NEED a bit of help sometimes, so I use a ball that helps just a bit.
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trash heap

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Re: spare ball question + figjam
« Reply #3 on: October 05, 2011, 06:32:22 AM »
" Is there any reason to go with one plastic ball rather than another, other than price?"

 

Not all plastic balls are the same. I was using a White Dot and then I bought a Golden Globe. It took me a while to get used to the Globe because it went straighter than my White Dot. The big difference I see is I do not adjust when conditions are dry for my spare shooting. The Globe goes Straight every time, especially when you don't have speed on the ball.
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Jorge300

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Re: spare ball question + figjam
« Reply #4 on: October 05, 2011, 09:22:42 AM »
Rags,

    First off, congratulations, hope it holds up.

 

As far as spare balls, I think most have gotten in correct, but I wanted to add my experiences to this. I think the newer urethane equipment, and even some of the older ones are made to be more aggressive and may not be a good choice for a spare ball. But it does give you the kind of double benefit you were thinking as they do make excellent dry lane balls. And there is a lot of differences in Plastic balls. Mainly in the core, some have a "non-bowling ball core" as I call it, such as the Team Storm balls, the Golden Globe, etc. Some have simple cores, like White Dots, etc. Then some have aggressive cores, like the Lane#1 XXXL, etc. I think one in this last category might be what you are looking for. It goes straight enough for spares, but does offer some movement at the backend of the lane to help with double wood or other tougher multiple pin spares. They also can serve as a dry lane ball as the core give the ball some movement and helps with increasing carry over the other two categories of plastic. I have an old Ebonite Clear Wolf, that has the plastic cover and the old Wolf weight block inside. I even found one on Ebay about 5 years ago and bought to keep in my closet for when my original decides to finally break apart, lol. I have shot a handful of 279 games with that ball on drier conditions (one of my goals in bowling is to shoot 300 with plastic, lol) and I use it for every spare for the most part. It drive just enough to make the harder spares (like a 3-6-9-10) but still goes straight enough to make corner pins easily.

 

Just MHO. Good Luck Rags.


Jorge300

Jorge300

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Re: spare ball question + figjam
« Reply #5 on: October 05, 2011, 10:24:32 AM »
Hi Rags,
 
Welcome back, haven't noticed you posting much in awhile.
 
Congratulations on your tournament results, hope it holds up.
 
As others have already posted, there are differences in the urethane and plastic balls.  I have a White Dot and a Visionary Amulet and there is a big difference between those two plastic balls.  The Amulet has a real core and does hook more than the WD.  I switched over to just using the Amulet because it seems more versatile for me.  I can use it as a dry lanes ball with better carry than the WD. I just have to be careful on the shorter sport patterns because it will hook much more than I am accustomed to seeing but not uncontrollable.
 
As for the urethanes, others have more experience with those and have already posted.  I would like to add that you can also find a urethane ball with particles if you look for a Visionary Midnight Scorcher but you will probably only find it used because it was released quite awhile back.  There may be others with particles too. There are pealized versions of urethanes available.
 
For myself, I prefer using plastic for spares because they do go much straighter than the urethanes I have tried, but I believe urethanes have a place in today's game for some bowlers and some patterns.  Good luck.
 
 


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Xx 12 X 300 xX

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Re: spare ball question + figjam
« Reply #6 on: October 05, 2011, 10:48:27 AM »
I'm a pretty firm believer in using a plastic ball or a urethane ball at the spares for most people.  I sometimes tend to get lazy and just use my regular ball in leagues and use the proper spare shooting principles.   I do like a plastic ball or urethane ball that moves just a tad bit, so the regular plastic balls over the super hard clear plastic ones work for me.   I throw it straight with a slight back up at the 6 and 10 pins, but I can not get the hang of that for the 4 and 7.  What I do for the 4 and 7 is use more of a flatter wrist release and try to fan the ball more with my hand, and use the slight movement of the ball into the 4 and 7 pins.
 
I've tried the straight ball at the 4 and 7 over and over again and I miss them way too much.   I prefer having the ball "cut" into the pins going from corner to corner.   
 
 
If you notice on the PBA tour, there is a wide variety of spare shooting angles and techniques.   Some guys throw straight or back up balls at everything, other guys use a strike ball release with speed and rotation  on their plastic ball and then some guys use their regular strike ball to shoot spares.   
 
Duke uses his strike ball with a back up type cut
Weber uses a plastic ball and fans it with his hand in a hook release type of hand action
Barnes uses his plastic ball and throws it straight from smaller non traditional corner to corner angles.
Monacelli has always used his strike ball and hooked it at the 4 and 7, and a plastic ball at the 6 and 10
Shafer uses a weaker reactive/urethane (at one time it was a Barbed Wire) at the 4 and 7, and a plastic ball at the 6 and 10 
Walter Ray Williams uses a plastic ball with more traditional corner to corner angles
Mika K uses his plastic ball with alot of speed and some loft but has rotation on it. 
 
The most important thing is to get comfortable with your spare shooting game.
 
 

 
Edited by Xx 12 X 300 xX on 10/5/2011 at 10:49 AM
 
Edited by Xx 12 X 300 xX on 10/5/2011 at 10:50 AM

dizzyfugu

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Re: spare ball question + figjam
« Reply #7 on: October 06, 2011, 08:10:18 AM »

 



bullred wrote on 04.10.2011 12:07 PM:
an older urethane ball shined up is a good double purpose ball.  Watch out for newer urethane balls, they are aggressive.. A polyester ball with a "core" might be a good choice.    In a pinch each would be good as a dry lane ball.

+1. Get an old Faball Hammer - these things last forever, and do not hook much at all. With some hand it can be used as a dry lane ball.

 

When considering polyester, there ARE differences. Hardness is one factor - normal polyesters like White Dots, Maxims or T-Zones are in the 78-80 hardness range. Good all-purpose balls, durable. But there are also harder pieces available, which offer even less traction - but they tend to be more brittle, cracking is IMHO an issue.

 

Personally, I have never seen the true benefit of a polyester ball with a core. Even if the core adds some stability and gets the ball into a roll, the hard cover just does not transfer its energy onto the pins as good as a urethane ball. It might work on VERY short patterns or really dry lanes. But when do you face such things? With hard plastic you get more pin splattering and deflection, and with some plastic ball with a core bearing huge price tags I do not see a corresponding benefit, except for ego issues.


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