Something I've learned: Don't pay too much attention to the pattern graph.  You can get a general idea of what to expect, but surface friction and topography matters more than the graph does.  In our Jr Gold preparation league, they are teaching the kids how to read lane graphs and what they tell you, plus the whole rule of 31 thing, but what the guy running it learned really quick was that I was able to find where the shot was at regardless of where the sheet said it should be at, and he started telling all the kids to watch where/how I was playing the lanes.  It's just because I know our surface really well.  A few shots have played close to where the sheet said they should, but because our surface is really high friction, a lot play completely backwards.  Flat shots play well from deep, and the heavier shots actually play pretty well outside.  All about ball reaction.  A lot of times I don't like knowing too much about the pattern to begin with because it messes with my head.  I watch my ball reaction and create my own mental lane graph. 

Something I've learned: Don't pay too much attention to the pattern graph.  You can get a general idea of what to expect, but surface friction and topography matters more than the graph does.  In our Jr Gold preparation league, they are teaching the kids how to read lane graphs and what they tell you, plus the whole rule of 31 thing, but what the guy running it learned really quick was that I was able to find where the shot was at regardless of where the sheet said it should be at, and he started telling all the kids to watch where/how I was playing the lanes.  It's just because I know our surface really well.  A few shots have played close to where the sheet said they should, but because our surface is really high friction, a lot play completely backwards.  Flat shots play well from deep, and the heavier shots actually play pretty well outside.  All about ball reaction.  A lot of times I don't like knowing too much about the pattern to begin with because it messes with my head.  I watch my ball reaction and create my own mental lane graph. 

Off topic, but I bowl a sport league in the fall and theres always one guy in particular bitching and moaning because majority of the guys that score don't play up first arrow. He always references the "PBA sheets" on what ball to use and where to play and I reference his 171 average.

I truly believe he is content averaging 170 playing the lanes how the "comic book" says to rather than what the lane dictates.

The printed patterns are just guidelines of course. But the overall idea will remain the same. So if you bowl on the same lanes, each pattern will play to it's characteristics in relation to the other patterns on a given surface. For example, Cheetah will always hook earlier than Scorpion on the fresh.

Question then when you speak of the characteristics who exactly are they designed for? Which bowler?
There are too many variables that come into play to truly believe much else than your ba reaction than what someone else tells you

If you are referring to my post, perhaps you stopped reading before the last sentence. The pattern sheets are just a place to start. Every pattern will transition according to the lane surface and bowlers on the pair.

Cheetah will always hook earlier than Scorpion on the fresh.

I would say they will play to a few of their major characteristics like length, but for instance the US Open pattern plays SUPER easy at our home house because there's hook where there isn't supposed to be hook.  Medium to long and/or heavier patterns play a lot easier because of all the friction, but short and/or dry is a nightmare.  The Cheetah may always hook earlier, but the Scorpion is easier at my home house than the Cheetah because the higher friction changes the characteristics. 

Yes, I completely agree with you Giz. The local house bowlers have a big effect on how flat patterns play.

15 to 7 will probably be a gutter ball on Scorpion. You have the right idea with 15, but it will be the break point at the end of the pattern, not your target at the arrows. Of course, each house plays different.

Milo, Thanks for the constructive advice.   When I start my 10 minutes of practice before league play, I will begin with a 15 to 10 look and adjust accordingly.

Best,
MK

Two or three points.  First, I never look at the edge to edge pattern, just the length of the buff.  That is the biggest difference in sport patterns and house patterns.  The end of the oil determines when the ball starts to move, no matter where you play the lanes on sport patterns.  On a house shot the hook spot depends on when the ball gets right of the oil line.

Also, very good advice on trying to know where the house track is.  Older synthetics track just like wood did.  Especially important on longer patterns where you are looking to get the track to open a bit. 

Finally, there are exceptions to every rule.  I recently bowled three weeks on the Badger pattern in a summer league.  I previously bowled a rolloff on this pattern in a different house in April.  In the rolloff the best strategy was just what they say, square up inside 10, keep your break point tight.  I was able to average a bit over 200, as the pattern opened up to 2 and 1 moves after less than 2 games.  In the recetnt situation on similar Anvil lane surface with a similar lane machine the shot was totally unplayable deeper, and nobody scored inside.  I finally went out to about 7 board, and just jammed the ball toward the pocket using a solid IQ.  Even out there I was leaving a pocket hit split every game, but I out averaged the rest of the house by 10 pins per game.