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Author Topic: Ten-pin Taps  (Read 3615 times)

Jesse James

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Ten-pin Taps
« on: April 05, 2017, 09:28:24 AM »
What are you guys solutions for ten-pin taps? I recently had a very good set going. I shot 244 first game and 259 the second. I was extremely confident going into the third game, only to be hit with tap, after tap after tap!! 195!!

I tried changing my angle of attack...no luck. I took a half step back to resolve my flat tens, but that led to solid 7's. I moved left which was good for a frame, but then left a ringing ten!

It was frustrating to see all those 9/ up there, knowing full well they could have been all strikes, if not for the taps!!
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AlonzoHarris

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Re: Ten-pin Taps
« Reply #1 on: April 05, 2017, 09:33:46 AM »
I ball change to something more angular and bump left a bit. For me it's usually because that line is burned and my current ball is something that struggles with kicking the corners once I move deeper so the ball change also occurs.
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leftybowler70

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Re: Ten-pin Taps
« Reply #2 on: April 05, 2017, 10:05:57 AM »
Being a bowler who for 3 straight months of a avg of 5-6 7 pins a game, I feel your pain; ( I had a thread a little while ago on this same subject).    I've missed so many opportunities at high games/sets because of this very same problem.

I also have done all the aforementioned adjustments and ball changes ; All I can say to you is that it's unfortunately part of the game and keep throwing the ball good and it will come. Just last week I had 29 clean (one pesky split that prevented the clean set) I actually carried more for a 657. Felt good to carry more, but felt great on the almost clean set..... keep it up!

avabob

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Re: Ten-pin Taps
« Reply #3 on: April 05, 2017, 10:46:07 AM »
Ten pins are the result of ball defection causing the 3 pin to push the 6 pin in front of the 10.  Increased deflection results when either the ball doesn't come out of its skid  ( not too common in today's game), or because the ball has burned off its rotational energy.  Lots of possible remedies, including ball change, targeting longer, or shorter, or hand position changes.  Unfortunately none is a sure fire fix. 

The problem is particularly evident for slow to medium speed strokers on house shots where getting to the pocket is easy.  As the shot breaks down forcing you in,  a lot of wet dry comes in to play which coupled with the increased out angle results in too much deflection.

Jesse James

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Re: Ten-pin Taps
« Reply #4 on: April 05, 2017, 12:09:44 PM »
Ten pins are the result of ball defection causing the 3 pin to push the 6 pin in front of the 10.  Increased deflection results when either the ball doesn't come out of its skid  ( not too common in today's game), or because the ball has burned off its rotational energy.  Lots of possible remedies, including ball change, targeting longer, or shorter, or hand position changes.  Unfortunately none is a sure fire fix. 

The problem is particularly evident for slow to medium speed strokers on house shots where getting to the pocket is easy.  As the shot breaks down forcing you in,  a lot of wet dry comes in to play which coupled with the increased out angle results in too much deflection.

Thanks for the encouragement Leftybowler70!!

These are very good points that you make Avabob, because I normally throw in the 14mph range, and I remember a guy on the opposing team mentioning how fast I was throwing the ball at that time. It was skidding quite a bit on the backend, now that I remember, which would impede it from getting into that proper roll stage!

 Going to a more angular piece while staying put....might work as well. Lot's of stuff to consider. Thanks guys!
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avabob

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Re: Ten-pin Taps
« Reply #5 on: April 05, 2017, 02:17:26 PM »
I over simplified my life explanation a bit.  The interaction of our speed axis rotation and the surface has a big time impact, but is usually more outside our control.  One thing I do think is important.  Increasing entry angle, all other things being equal does not decrease deflection.  That is why slow hooking the lane doesn't help carry in many situations. 

Strapper_Squared

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Re: Ten-pin Taps
« Reply #6 on: April 05, 2017, 02:40:17 PM »
When I adjust enough to stop leaving 10s, I generally will leave buckets (far enough one direction), or 4 pins far enough the other. 😂

I will see 10pins early if I get the ball too far inside (in the oil and doesn't finish) and late (swing it too wide and the ball burns up making it back).  In both cases, it's clear the ball is deflecting and exiting the deck over the 9-10 pin spot.

My recent strategy has been to ball up and play further inside/tighter, trying to stay away from the other traffic on the pair.  Doesn't work if there's mega crankers who start in that area though...

Although it's hard to swallow, sometimes the conditions are just not conducive to scoring big in game 3...  At that point, leaving makable spares and covering them is a win.

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Good Times Good Times

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Re: Ten-pin Taps
« Reply #7 on: April 05, 2017, 02:42:30 PM »
Yell........."get up the hill ball!" fervently......works from time-to-time.
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avabob

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Re: Ten-pin Taps
« Reply #8 on: April 05, 2017, 04:22:50 PM »
Finding a way to go more direct is a good way to minimize the most common weak 10.  However being able to do it isn't always east, especially for anyone rev dominate.  Biggest problem on house shots is that when the heads go, there is still a heavy buildup in the middle at the midlane area.  Patterns are still long enough that it isn't possible to play real direct inside.  That is why carry is often better on flatter sport patterns.  You don't have to worry about banking the ball off the dry, and thus can tighten the out angle a bit as you move in.  the heads still go, but much more feasible to play tighter when you move in as one poster suggests.

storybook123

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Re: Ten-pin Taps
« Reply #9 on: April 05, 2017, 04:30:34 PM »
I would start watching where the ball is exiting the pin deck, the ball should be exiting between the 8 & 9 pin. You will notice when you start leaving 7 or 10 pins that the pin either punched through the 8 or 9 pin and not going through the middle of the two. This is how you need to make your adjustments, I would start learning to hold your end position till the ball balls off the pin deck to start getting in the habit of see what your ball is doing. This by any means is not an easy task, but this is what the pros do.

Jesse James

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Re: Ten-pin Taps
« Reply #10 on: April 06, 2017, 10:30:24 AM »
I would start watching where the ball is exiting the pin deck, the ball should be exiting between the 8 & 9 pin. You will notice when you start leaving 7 or 10 pins that the pin either punched through the 8 or 9 pin and not going through the middle of the two. This is how you need to make your adjustments, I would start learning to hold your end position till the ball balls off the pin deck to start getting in the habit of see what your ball is doing. This by any means is not an easy task, but this is what the pros do.

Wow! You learn something new every day! Thanks for the advice!
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northface28

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Re: Ten-pin Taps
« Reply #11 on: April 06, 2017, 12:02:05 PM »
Yell........."get up the hill ball!" fervently......works from time-to-time.

All the while turning an imaginary crank, this works every time, 60% of the time.
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Impending Doom

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Re: Ten-pin Taps
« Reply #12 on: April 06, 2017, 12:51:09 PM »
Yell........."get up the hill ball!" fervently......works from time-to-time.

All the while turning an imaginary crank, this works every time, 60% of the time.

That makes absolutely no sense. #anchorman