Of course different layouts will give you a different look. I don't think I could survive on tour/tournaments with a leverage layout on all of my stuff, we face a wide variety of different conditions.
Each piece of equipment should have a specific purpose that differs from every other piece of equipment. Most of us have one or more "favorite" layouts. They're "favorite" because we've found that they work well with our physical game and the lane conditions we face. There is and should be (in my opinion) some trial and error in the process of finding out what works for you. Experience is the best teacher. You really do not know what a given ball/surface/core/layout combination is going to do for you on any condition until you throw it on that condition. "Should do" is often disproven by the actual performance.
As such, I can share my experiences with you but you must realize that what works for me may not work for you. Remember also that I'm an active tournament bowler that bowls in everything from penny-ante no-tap tournaments to PBA and mega-bucks tournaments. What layouts I use, in order from most common to least common. Any newer bowlers reading this post, a stated number-x-number, such as 5x4 is way of explaning layout in terms of how far your pin is from your positive axis point (aka PAP) and how far your center of gravity (aka Cg) is from your positive axis point.
5x4 or 10:30 or 45-degree layout
Typically accompanied by a small weighthole on my PAP, this is more of a control drill (than say, a stacked laverage) that promotes length with hard arc. I've scored well with this layout on typical house shots and I've cashed with this layout in a regional PBA event on pattern C (scorpion). For me, it is the best all-around layout. You can tweak the length with coverstock changes and the strength by your selection of core. You can also tweak the length by placing the pin above or below the finger bridge, also effectively moving the CG above or below your grip center. Variations on this drill can include 5.5x4.5 or 6x5 (you should get the general gist here) to reduce flare if necessary on higher Radius of Gyration (Rg) differential (Diff) balls. My experiences have shown that this layout works best on reactive solids or particles (any).
2x5 or 2:00 or 105-degree layout
This is something I use when a want more of a skid/flip reaction than the above, though it is not as strong of a skid/flip as a stacked leverage (12:00/75-degree) layout. In fact, this is what I typically use when most other bowlers are using stacked leverage equipment. With a pin only 2 inches from the PAP reduces the flare (compared to stacked) and helps the ball rev up sooner by using the lower-rg orientation of the weight block. This helps mellow out the break point. This type of layout, especially on a reactive pearl, helps me take advantage of a house shot or open up a mild crown that has a little recovery to the outside. Variations on the drill include 2.5x5 or 3x6 again, moving the pin to get more or less flare as needed. You can also use a weight hole to tweak flare as this layout does not generally need a weighthole if you start with a 3+ inch pin-out. This drill on a particle helps blend out a lateral wet-dry or over-under house shot. Personally, I find this works best on reactive pearls or particle solids.
0x5 or 0-degree or Pin-on-Pap layout
Although I don't see many bowlers using this type of layout, I have had much success with it. More than any other layout, the ball is going to rev-up early and the reaction is going to be a predictable, bannana-shaped arc. I use coverstock and/or core combinations to control the length. This is a great layout for controlling jumpy or messy backends. This type of layout worked pretty well for me (to the tune of 46 strikes over 9 games) in Reno last year at the ABC nationals. For me, it works on any type of coverstock, though I usually prefer low-Rg cores and polished covers. Also, I look for longer pin-outs to avoid balance holes - I don't want this to flare.
5x2 or "10:00" or 25-degree layout
Hard, early arc for controlling the backend. Typically with a hole on or inside the PAP to make the ball legal and/or enhance the flare, this type of layout is good for playing down and in from outside lines such as PBA pattern E (cheetah) and early on pattern A (Viper). It helps reduce the entry angle to where it needs to be when your breakpoint is naturally further from the pocket. I've also had success on taming extreme lateral over-under on house shots with this, using the ball's natural tendancy to want to burn up to control the snap from the outside. This layout on a Storm Core Power LRG with a dull surface is a gem - I don't care what conditions you're bowling on and what you do to the ball, it will not snap. Again, surface alteration and core selection can help you with the length. As with 45-degree layout, this works best for me on reactive solids or particles (any).
4.5x5.5 or 1:30 or 90-degree layout
Generally more skid/flip than 2x5/2:00/105-degree, I generally only need this type of equipment when there are problems with carrydown. Most of the time, I only have 1 or 2 balls in my entire arsenal laid out this way. On clean backends and lateral wet-dry, this layout (as well as stacked leverage, but even more so) only exaggerates release and speed mistakes. I need the oil on the backends to help tame that overreaction down. This works on just about any coverstock though reactive pearls will accentuate the breakpoint and particles will help smooth it out.
Others
This is "niche" equipment. Although it seems to be quite popular with Joe Bowler, stacked leverage has found its way onto only one of my balls. It sees (very) limited action on certain house shots. On the opposite side of the spectrum, I have one ball with a 315-degree/7:30 layout that I use for extreme dry and inverted patterns.
Well, there you go. I hope this helps you in some way. If you have any questions, fire away.
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Kill the back row (or maybe this should read "make your spares, dummy")
