I'm biased, but Visionary has good quality control. 

I don't really understand ball production, but an air pocket may be something that could happen to any company.

Doesn't have much to do with quality control, has to do with the natural yin and yang of what they're accomplishing.  3 piece balls are more susceptible to cracking than 2 piece are, resin more than urethane or plastic, etc.  Surface pitting is normal period, air pockets shouldn't be but those are very rare, circular cracks around fingerholes are pro shop error, so I don't know where you're going here.  95% of the problems bowling balls have are caused by the people who own them and don't know how to take care of them or pro shop operators who don't know what they're doing.  Let a ball sit too long, core settles, ball cracks, owner fault.  Use too much glue installing inserts, causes the circular cracking, pro shop fault.  Don't bevel holes before installing inserts, chips out/cracks around finger holes, pro shop fault.  I've got a basement full of stuff that's just fine because even if I don't throw a ball for a while, I go down and move it occasionally.  I don't drill stuff within an inch of the pin.  I bevel my fingerholes, and I use exactly two drops of glue to hold the inserts in, don't need more than that.  My stuff doesn't crack or get circular cracks or chip or anything, but "my company" is supposedly the worst when it comes to durability. 

I don't buy it when it comes to other companies either.  "Columbia balls always crack," no they don't, people just don't take care of their stuff and want to blame manufacturing.  The design of modern reactive bowling balls DOES make them more fragile than they used to be, but that's the trade off.  If we want to go back to the 60s and 70s with rubber and urethane balls, you'll never have a problem.  Never heard of a Pitch Black cracking, and those are still available. 

Doesn't have much to do with quality control, has to do with the natural yin and yang of what they're accomplishing.  3 piece balls are more susceptible to cracking than 2 piece are, resin more than urethane or plastic, etc.  Surface pitting is normal period, air pockets shouldn't be but those are very rare, circular cracks around fingerholes are pro shop error, so I don't know where you're going here.  95% of the problems bowling balls have are caused by the people who own them and don't know how to take care of them or pro shop operators who don't know what they're doing.  Let a ball sit too long, core settles, ball cracks, owner fault.  Use too much glue installing inserts, causes the circular cracking, pro shop fault.  Don't bevel holes before installing inserts, chips out/cracks around finger holes, pro shop fault.  I've got a basement full of stuff that's just fine because even if I don't throw a ball for a while, I go down and move it occasionally.  I don't drill stuff within an inch of the pin.  I bevel my fingerholes, and I use exactly two drops of glue to hold the inserts in, don't need more than that.  My stuff doesn't crack or get circular cracks or chip or anything, but "my company" is supposedly the worst when it comes to durability. 

I don't buy it when it comes to other companies either.  "Columbia balls always crack," no they don't, people just don't take care of their stuff and want to blame manufacturing.  The design of modern reactive bowling balls DOES make them more fragile than they used to be, but that's the trade off.  If we want to go back to the 60s and 70s with rubber and urethane balls, you'll never have a problem.  Never heard of a Pitch Black cracking, and those are still available.

Columbia is not the company that comes to mind when I think who cracks the most (in recent times) but leaving it at that (no not Storm either for record).  As for Storm had zero problems with their balls since I bought a total dog crap Shift a decade plus ago.  A total layman's view is due to the advanced chemistry of their balls which can hockey stick on about as much oil as anyone you really have to be sure to maintain your stuff well as you mention and it just happens if you don't Storm balls might see reduced reaction earlier than most.  Honestly been on a ball buying spree the last year or so from every major family and have to say I haven't seen quality problems with any of them (bad driller did cause a small crack in one finger hole).  Even my $40 Pyramid Path plastic ball has been a lot more robust than I was expecting (much more than an old viz-a-ball I have).  The only ball though I have currently with a massive amount of games on it is my BVP Rampage which was a value ball I bought a decade plus ago.  With that powerkoil coverstock its just as strong as the day I bought it.  The Shift and Track Heat (think might have had a Desert Heat at some point as well) I bought around the same time are long destroyed or gone.  The Heat was stolen out of my car and dumped by the thieves in someone's yard so give it the benefit of the doubt when it cracked soon after.  The Shift well if a ball had to crack glad it was that one (the ball that taught me what burning up and rolling out was but didn't realize it at the time, just knew it sucked, Storm redeemed themselves soon after with the Hy-Road though).

My EBI stuff has been most disappointing in terms of quality.  I have 20+ balls across multiple manufacturers all drilled by the same PSO.  The bridge on my Track 400ASE, Columbia Antics, and Columbia Swerve have all cracked.  None of the bridges on any of my other balls have cracked (Motiv, Brunswick, Radical, DV8, Elite (made in China), 900G, Lane1, Storm, Roto).

Only have Hammer stuff from modern EBI family and its been good so far.