Author Topic: Problems on the Cheetah (Read 1716 times)

kingpin268 · « **on:** December 12, 2010, 02:23:36 AM »

Hey, position round is coming up for our PBA league and this week is on the Cheetah. I've had very limited success on the Cheetah, so I'm trying to come up with some ideas how to attack it. My best look on it came last year with a Secret Agent drilled with pin next to ring (I'm RH). The long, relatively low, pin gave me decent length and a controllable backend playing straight up outside five. The ball has since cracked around the fingers, and thumb but is still usable.

What I want to know is what kind of surfaces do you guys prefer on the Cheetah? Polished for length? Or 4000 to tame the backend down just a little? Or even a really dull surface to burn energy fast? I'm actually considering taking my Bounty Hunter down to 400 and giving it a shot.
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KoukiGS · « **Reply #1 on:** December 12, 2010, 10:32:05 AM »

I use a full swing @ 4000. I stand left foot on the 20 (bigger guy), I drop the ball down around the 5 and out to around the 3/2. A very very straight shot.

You don't want to use incredible amounts of surface on here. It will roll out, but I've always had success with solids on it more so than polished.

Locke · « **Reply #2 on:** December 12, 2010, 10:39:43 AM »

My success on the Cheetah has always come with my Roto Mercury. It is a long pin drilling with the pin over the bridge CG just outside and below the ring finger putting the imaginary MB up and right of the thumb. This a medium-light oil ball with a polished surface. I then usually play a fairly slow ball set down around 15-17 and over 11-12 at the arrows breaking around 9. I am a fairly high rev player so the slower ball allows it to set up nice. I have had a fair amount of success like that including a couple of 700's. Its not the recommended way to attack it, but if you can control your speed you should be able to hit it well.
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Strider · « **Reply #3 on:** December 12, 2010, 10:43:30 AM »

I usually throw something around 2000 abralon on Cheetah. Smooth enough to get down lane, but enough surface to not over react. I've thrown a few pieces at 220 + Rough Buff (somewhere between 4000 and a sheen depending on who you talk to) also. I would never throw anything super dull on Cheetah. Once you destroy the heads and have to swing it, Cheetah can get very ugly (over/under), at least for those with low to moderate rev rates.
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themachine300 · « **Reply #4 on:** December 12, 2010, 11:45:46 AM »

As long as there is enough oil in the front, I'll use a 1000 grit prodigy drilled pin down. Goal on the fresh is to get the ball to stop and I try to throw it really hard. If there isn't enough oil, I'll go to like a hyroad or something that arcs a little bit harder and move in. I do not like throwing polish on fresh oil, so I'll usually shell down if the stronger stuff reads to early.
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kingpin268 · « **Reply #5 on:** December 12, 2010, 11:47:09 AM »

Thanks for the suggestions. We move every pair, so the conditions should be fine if I were to use a dull ball. I know it would roll out, but even if it helps smooth things out and at least get me to the pocket more often, I think that would be beneficial. I'd rather shoot single pins, then all these multi-pin spares. I think I'm going to experiment Tuesday with different surfaces and see what works best.

I think I'll try either or all of the following:

Bounty Hunter at 400
Freeze at 4000
Slingshot at 1000-2000
Secret Agent at 1000-2000
Black Widow Bite at 4000

I've just been struggling with this pattern this year. I've been bowling fine on the Viper, the other relatively shorter pattern. But I don't think I'm comfortable targeting the breakpoint way outside, unless I'm playing straight up. Any tips to play that 10-15 out to 5 and beyond? I know I have the least confidence playing that kind of line. I have more confidence playing straight up 1 or 2 because I know I'm not sending it towards the gutter.
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Dan Belcher · « **Reply #6 on:** December 12, 2010, 01:41:29 PM »

The further right I can stand with my feet, the better my success has been on the Cheetah and other 35' sport shots. Depending on lane surface and volume of oil, I have used a TON of different equipment. Pin down 4x3 Mars with a P3 x-hole with a 2000 abralon surface, a pin down 5.5x4 low x-hole Prodigy at 1000 with a light coat of polish, a pin up 5x5 Gravity Shift with surface and just a tiny amount of polish just applied by hand, a 5x5 pin up Second Dimension at 2000 with a very shiny polished finish, a very high pin 5x4 Reign with a very shiny surface, and a 4x3 P3 x-hole Natural at 2000. The key with all of these? I'm never, ever giving away the headpin very much. The most I'll swing it is 5 at the arrows to 2-3 at the breakpoint. Sometimes as the shot breaks down, I'll switch to something shiny, bring my breakpoint left and take some hand out of it (well, what little hand I get in it to begin with

) and play more direct. But all in all, the best bet is to look for the friction by the gutter and use it. If you make a small mistake right, the ball will catch that friction sooner and recover and bring you back to the pocket. That is the ideal situation, and you want to be as far right as you can get with your feet to give you the best opportunity to take advantage of that friction.

tburky · « **Reply #7 on:** December 12, 2010, 01:44:57 PM »

cheetah on HPL at my house i use at 2nd dimension with 4-1/2" stack with additional coat of xtra shine and a reign 5 x 3-1/2 pin down 1000 abralon surface and up the boards

Edited on 12/12/2010 2:49 PM

Russell · « **Reply #8 on:** December 12, 2010, 03:39:39 PM »

There isn't any magic equipment or layout. The pattern just needs to be played properly. As others have said you need to stay close to the oil line however you can as long as you can. If you try to go at it on the fresh the middle ends up playing very flat. If you tug it the ball starts up early until the track begins to carry down. Generally you want to stay right for AT LEAST 2 or 3 games...then depending on what the breakdown is like you can move left and go at it.
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CPA · « **Reply #9 on:** December 13, 2010, 06:40:57 AM »

I have had success on Cheetah using balls with a lower pin and more surface. If I use balls that go longer or are shined, the ball breaks too late and there is too much angle entering the pocket. Therefore lots of 10 pins. There is a lot of hook so you want to use something to control the hook. Don't be afraid to use a lot of surface on Cheetah.
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cheech · « **Reply #10 on:** December 13, 2010, 07:06:31 AM »

i usually have success with polished balls with early layouts on them. example: blue vibe with a 2" pin-pap and pin down vapor zone with the mass bias past my VAL
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Author Topic: Problems on the Cheetah (Read 1716 times)

kingpin268

Problems on the Cheetah

KoukiGS

Re: Problems on the Cheetah

Locke

Re: Problems on the Cheetah

Strider

Re: Problems on the Cheetah

themachine300

Re: Problems on the Cheetah

kingpin268

Re: Problems on the Cheetah

Dan Belcher

Re: Problems on the Cheetah

tburky

Re: Problems on the Cheetah

Russell

Re: Problems on the Cheetah

CPA

Re: Problems on the Cheetah

cheech

Re: Problems on the Cheetah