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Author Topic: How? - Reverse Block  (Read 3399 times)

The Extremist

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How? - Reverse Block
« on: May 03, 2007, 02:40:12 AM »
I searched for this, didn't find anything so, sorry if it has been covered before. Well it is like this...

How do you play at a Reverse Block condition, and what ball do you use??

Yesterday if I play right the ball skids, never made a move. If I go like 25-30 with my feet to like 15-20 at the arrows, the ball goes left = brooklyn or worse. The same line + more speed = the ball skids and hits the 3 or 6. Thank you for all your comments.

 

Joe Jr

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Re: How? - Reverse Block
« Reply #1 on: May 03, 2007, 10:44:58 AM »
Depends on how heavy the pattern is, but generally you play it inside a direct, you can also go straight from out. Where ever you play don't expect to cover a lot of boards.
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CoachLefty

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Re: How? - Reverse Block
« Reply #2 on: May 03, 2007, 01:44:17 PM »
I have a track crash that is drilled in above ring that is perfect for reverse block.  i have always found that playing the middle is easier on reverse block, not ever letting the ball getting left of 12.  if you drill a ball to be super long and then flip you should have a least a decent look.  you need to make sure you dont give the pocket away
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Lefty

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Re: How? - Reverse Block
« Reply #3 on: May 03, 2007, 02:03:45 PM »
The true reverse block is a myth that the majority of bowlers cannot differentiate from a flat pattern.  Just to speak on it in the most generic way possible, say you have a flat pattern, 18ml 1:1 ratio 40 feet.  You throw a shot 15-6, it only recovers 5 boards from the 6 board(comes into the pins at board 11) and you leave a washout.  The bowler thinks:

"Out of bounds there from 10 out, I can't get the ball back from there"

On the next shot, the bowler throws a shot 15-13(hits the same mark in the heads, but doesn't get it out as wide).  The ball still hooks 5 boards from 13 and goes through the face for a big split.  The bowler thinks:

"Wow, I hit the same mark, the ball hooked through the face.  It must be dry in the middle of the lane because when I sent it out, the ball didn't recover."

What you see there is not a reverse block, it's just a flat pattern that is going to make your ball respond in a matter to where you throw it.  A TRUE reverse block is a flatter pattern or a low ratio pattern that gets played by the bowlers in the middle of the lane to the point that the bowlers dry up the track and middle of the lane first, leaving a fresher amount of oil on the outsides.  No lane graph/pattern will lay out a pattern where there is a lower concentration of oil in the middle than there is on the outside.  That's why you'll never hear of or see a 1:3 or 2:5 ratio pattern from the start.  It's the gradual breakdown of oil in the middle by the bowlers that will cause the reverse block effect.

Now the best way you want to attack a reverse block is on the inside line where the oil is fresher and use a core/drill combination that is going to minimize flare through the front of the lanes, and a ball surface that is going to glide through drying heads and midlanes.  Your lanuch angles should be tighter as well.  Then you want to play around 23-27 inside out to the middle of the lane at the breakpoint(anywhere from 15-11) as if it were the bounce that you're trying to hit on a THS.  Use the drying oil in the middle as your "bounce" back to the pocket, just make your angles tighter.  I've seen some high level collegiate players and amatuers kill patterns like these as they break down in long format tournaments using these same strategies.  Once you get dialed in, it can become as easy as a house pattern, you just have to learn how to "cut off" boards 1-12 on the right side of the lane as if they don't even exsist.

A really good example was the 2006 Tournament of Champions on the 50ft shot.  If you got the ball out anywhere right or left of the 12-13 board then you were plucking 3 off the left.  The pros automatically read that and being the shot makers they are, they were all able to fire shots from deep inside to the "wall" at 14-15 at the end of the pattern and fire off 240+ averages.  Once you become confident in migrating left and keeping your angles tight then the "reverse block" will be one of your strongest patterns to play.
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cgilyeat

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Re: How? - Reverse Block
« Reply #4 on: May 03, 2007, 02:21:31 PM »
DJ , nice explaination.  I've seen more than one flat shot turned into a reverse block by the high-rev power players drying out the middle.

alzgarvin

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Re: How? - Reverse Block
« Reply #5 on: May 03, 2007, 11:15:30 PM »
I am bowling in a spring 10 week league that sees a different shot each week. First week was a THS with longer outside runs to take away the wall somewhat...shot 619 (avg 215 this year in league). Last week was a reverse block..really. Pad machine had insides center, 11 left to 11 right at 12 feet and single application forward only. Boards 7 to 10 on both sides were 25 feet oiled forward and 15 on return. Boards 7 to gutter were oiled forward to 34 feet and then 15 on return also. This was a little tough. Got worse as everyone was all over trying to find something. Could not get clean enough through heads anywhere inside. If swung to oil at 10 or out from inside line, would clear heads great but then sailed right or never recovered. Tried Jolt Pearl over 25 to 15 and was close, but either gripped too soon and beaked or used up too much energy and was flat on the back. Firm up the 25 foot 7 to 10 would squirt if bellied even a board and jump too soon at times. Once oil cariied down lane and oil depleted in front part, this area was not predictable even on great executed shots, dull or shiny ball. Best look I had was a TJ trick layout Shift I got from Jeff Carter. Feet right and straight up 2 board. Ball cruised the oil for 34 feet read mid and then turned high flush. Could tug to 3 board as long as speed was good and if tugged to 4 or 5 would go clear brooky. If missed to 1 board would sail and washout. If had slight head belly even on 2 board would finish late. Still better shot there probably because no one else would play the true twig with me and I was my only enemy.  Spares were predictable(since you knew the pattern) but were still a nightmare if they included more than 1 pin. All my chops I made the lead pin with no problem...double wood was toughest. Missed only 1 single pin spare, just couldn't string strikes. Splits were easier to find than strikes. Had two doubles, shot 184, 152 (swore I could play deep inside line), 173. Was upper third of the group. Could have been in upper group if stayed outside. Next week is gutter to gutter flat and 50 feet in length....cool. Al

bcw1969

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Re: How? - Reverse Block
« Reply #6 on: May 04, 2007, 06:54:59 AM »
I am bowling on a "Reverse block" this weekend, well, extreme oil on the outside and much drier on the insides with no hold area at the pins. I am going to be using my 2nd centaur amb particle ball that I just picked up from a co-worker who didn't like it. I had this one drilled more agressive than the one I already had, and his was much much newer, only 5 frames and he had enough of the ball. I am going to play straight down the out of bounds on the left edge of the lane right into the 1-2 pocket(hopefully). Last time I bowled on a similar pattern, my old amb particle was barely able to clip the 2-4 when I tried to play down and in from way left(which I usually prefer to do whenever I bowl). In practice to try the new amb particle I played on broken down lanes from early morning junior leagues, and the new centaur was at LEAST 5-6 boards stronger when standing on the center dot and sending the balls between the 2nd and 3rd arrows on the left side--the old centaur was able to hit the 1-2 from this spot, the new one was lucky to come anywhere near the 1-3, so I am hoping this newer ball with a more agressive agressive drilling will allow me to play the lanes the way I want to play them, and find some kind of consistenmcy on a tough tournament pattern.

Brad

charlest

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Re: How? - Reverse Block
« Reply #7 on: May 04, 2007, 06:52:08 PM »
Listen to DJ (DP3).
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