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Author Topic: Urethane  (Read 4447 times)

Motogp69

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Urethane
« on: March 23, 2010, 02:56:24 PM »
For those of you that have put Urethane back into their arsenal, how and when have you been using them on a THS? What have the transitions been like?
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BrunsMike

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2010, 11:30:41 PM »
I've been using my Storm Natural (urethane) as my 1st ball out of the bag. I don't normally have to make any adjustments until the 3rd game. Once I start seeing weak 10's I either have to make a 2 board right adjustment or make a ball change to a weak drilled pearl on the same line. Some night's I can't seem to get the urethane to read the lane all that well in practice, those nights I put the ball away and pull out something more aggressive.
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the pooh

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2010, 11:51:59 PM »
I have 4 urethane balls that I use frequently. In order of oil handling capability they are #1 AMF Hype #2 Seismic Desperado #3 Storm Natural #4 Visionary Amulet Glow. I am highly rev dominant, and urethane has become my best friend! The Desperado and the Natural are usually the first two out of the bag. I would say the Desperado is my benchmark ball. The other two handle opposite extremes. In general, urethane works well on dry backends or a hard wall. When the reactives jump too hard if I miss slightly right to the dry, the urethane smoothly arcs to the pocket. As far as transitions go, there are many nights I only have to move 2-3 boards at the dots to stay in the pocket. What urethane does NOT like is carry down. When I can't get through it or around it with one of my 4 urethanes, I switch to reactives. The Hype was/is the strongest of the 4 by far. I could not use it in box finish. I fixed that with 1/2 hour on a spinner with Powerhouse Extender Polish, then Brunswick High Gloss Factory Finish, then when that wasn't enough, a coat of Powerhouse Delayed Reaction. It is STILL the strongest, but fits nicely in the progression now. I have not been able to duplicate the reaction the urethanes give me with any layout or surface prep on a reactive!
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stormed1

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2010, 01:21:26 AM »
One center i bowl in is wood with a ton of friction. With my slow ball speed i'm forced in to 4th and 5th arrow with weakly drilled resin. I'm able to play a normal swing shot of 12-8 with my polished Hype Urethane and then a step down to my Desperado
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T C 300

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2010, 08:02:08 AM »
i jsut picked up a natural.... not sure what layout im needn or want. if any body wants to help, pap is around 4.75" over and 1.25" up. 18+ mpg 500rpm (so ive been told) i dont think its that but many ppl teedll me it is so. i seen a vid of me bowln this past summer and was kinda shock by the amount of revs i put on the ball so it may very well be upwards of 500....

Motogp69

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #5 on: March 24, 2010, 08:42:47 AM »
Yeah, do we layout a Urethane ball just like a normal ball? Is their a preferred layout?
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Videos at:
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"The framers of our Constitution believed that if the people were to be sovereign and belong to different religions at the same time then our official religion would have to be no religion at all. It was a bold experiment then as it is now. It wasn't meant to make us comfortable, it was meant to make us free."

charlest

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #6 on: March 24, 2010, 08:52:32 AM »
quote:
Yeah, do we layout a Urethane ball just like a normal ball? Is their a preferred layout?
--------------------
Videos at:
http://youtube.com/user/Gsnap21

"The framers of our Constitution believed that if the people were to be sovereign and belong to different religions at the same time then our official religion would have to be no religion at all. It was a bold experiment then as it is now. It wasn't meant to make us comfortable, it was meant to make us free."


Sorry, but you don't just layout a urethane because they all have different cores. You don't layout all your resins the same way, right?

The Desperado has an asymmetric core, with a significant Mass Bias.
The Hype Urethane has a lot of flare that you might want to control with a longer pin to PAP drilling.
The Natural has a nice medium RG, medium flare core that you might want to drill like a similarly cored resin.

The HYpe and the Natural come with dullish coverstocks, so, depending on how much ball speed and revs you haven you AND how much you are going to adjust the coverstock, you might want to use higher pin positions to help with length.

The Ogre Urethane comes both highly polished, with a higher RG and lower flaring core, so you migh tnot want too much length from the drilling, depending on how you intend to use it.

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dizzyfugu

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #7 on: March 24, 2010, 09:15:04 AM »
I have 3 balls that fall into the urethane category, but they are very different.

Black Pure Hammer.
5x5, at 1.500 grit. This is actually a resin/urethane blend ball, and I suppose it is close to the Natural. It is a great light conditiosn ball, but too strong for true dry conditions. Very smooth, despite the stacked drilling, On scorched lanes I can swing it (it tends to read early), but normally it feels at home around 2nd arrow. Not nervous on carrydown. Funny thing is that it tunrs into a hook monster when I polish it.

Slate Blue Gargoyle
Stacked leverage, OOB polish. Ball still looks like on day one, no scratches. THIS is durable. Fits well under the PH, great for dry lanes, even with its strong layout. Length is no issue, but it does not like carrydown or higher oil volumes at all, it even creates its own carrydown on soupy heads! The cover just does not absorb oil... Very versatile for true ridden lanes, but you have to know when to use and bag it.

Faball Blue Hammer
Label drill, 1.000 sanded. The classic, and a VERY versatile piece. Durable, hard - works on totally scorched lanes, but also on higher oil volumes - it creates friction though its matte surface. Overall a weak ball, not very forgiving, though, and prone to leave single pins on what looks like good pocket hits. Probably the small entry angle it creates? But IMHO even today a viable option, if you can live with a small arcing hook.

Here's a video of all of them:
http://de.video.yahoo.com/watch/5123796/13581222
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scotts33

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #8 on: March 24, 2010, 09:15:27 AM »
One of the better comments about urethane from riggs in this article.  http://host.madison.com/sports/recreation/bowling/article_c349cf7c-3446-11df-996b-001cc4c002e0.html

The bigger key -- as always -- is who bowls in front of us in minors and how they play the lanes. It would be nice to see folks playing the track together with medium balls and no plastic or urethane for strike shots, which is what we had last year when we bowled very well in minors.

Even though it's Natl's...house shots can be even more screwed up by those that use urethane.  I see urethane being used on shorter/drier patterns like Cheetah I can understand that...for everything else a poor choice.  There are too many great low differential low flare reactives out there.  JMO.
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charlest

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #9 on: March 24, 2010, 11:04:38 AM »
Scott,

The problem with most of those low diferential, low flare balls is that on dry lanes, they flip too hard for a lot people, no matter the drilling. While there are some very good ones, mnay selections from some manufacturers just use a medium strength coverstock on a very weak core. The core helps but the coverstock still rules. A prime example is the Tropical Storm. Look at all the people here who constantly say how strong it is. (Of course, many aren't drilled correctly and still more fail to modify the surface to add any control but still most find it unusable on dry.)

Rarely in Nationals is it dry enough to use a urethane. the only tme I saw it was when 75 -85 used a Burgundy or Black Hammer, but that was because it was their only ball for the last 25 years. When it is dry, most lanes need to played way inside and few urethanes can do that these days. Even less people have the hand or the desire to try that.

I still disagree with the strength of Riggs' article's insistence on urethanes causing carrydown. While they can (cause carrydown) when several people on a pair can use them, I find 99% of the time carrydown happens when no one uses urethane. Blaming urethane 100% for carrydown is like blaming God for the rain.

That said, I still personally prefer resin on drier lanes. So far I've only used urethane in practice but more often lately my home house is getting really, really dry. I may have to soon. Either thar or my Blue Dot, which will definitely cause carrydown!
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"None are so blind as those who will not see."
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Motogp69

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #10 on: March 24, 2010, 11:37:26 AM »
Charlest, that's what I thought, but I wasn't sure if due to how weak the coverstocks are that you needed to use you favorite drills but make then a bit stronger.

I am exploring the urethane option because on my THS I'm deep inside by the end of the first game because they've failed to hire a replacement for the old laneman when every night was the great flood.

If I was to pick up just one Urethane which would you recommend?
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Videos at:
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"The framers of our Constitution believed that if the people were to be sovereign and belong to different religions at the same time then our official religion would have to be no religion at all. It was a bold experiment then as it is now. It wasn't meant to make us comfortable, it was meant to make us free."

laddog54

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #11 on: March 24, 2010, 01:14:51 PM »
Most of the time my first adjustment is to move right a board or two after practice or early in the first game as the fresh backends get a little oil on them. Usually I can sit there for 2 games until the reactives tear up the mids and then I will move back left a couple of boards at the arrows to create a little angle. I just juice up the revs a bit and boom, the third game is usually the best. I have found drills are not that important. I have thrown a bullseye drilled Pink Hammer 659, label drilled Black U-dot 616, Blue Rhino Pro 649, Ebonite Gyro 608, Roto Black Grenade 605 and Blue Hammer 638, pin below the bridge Liberator 666 and Natural 675 and leverage weighted Black Hammer 664. Most of these were high series on the pair due to lane maching problems before the new Kegel Ion showed up. The trick is to get the ball to roll at the pins to carry and that can be done with any drill as long as you can get far enough out near the gutter in the friction. You have to play the friction at your feet not at 38-40 ft down the lane or the ball won''t roll enough to carry.

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Edited on 3/24/2010 1:25 PM

Edited on 3/24/2010 1:33 PM

Motogp69

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #12 on: March 24, 2010, 01:37:30 PM »
What type of moves are we talking about: 2/1 right, 1/1, etc?
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Videos at:
http://youtube.com/user/Gsnap21

"The framers of our Constitution believed that if the people were to be sovereign and belong to different religions at the same time then our official religion would have to be no religion at all. It was a bold experiment then as it is now. It wasn''t meant to make us comfortable, it was meant to make us free."

Edited on 3/24/2010 1:37 PM

The Stroke

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #13 on: March 24, 2010, 01:41:04 PM »
quote:
What type of moves are we talking about: 2/1 right, 1/1, etc?


Neah, more like 225 to 200 on easier stuff.
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Motogp69

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Re: Urethane
« Reply #14 on: March 24, 2010, 01:47:01 PM »
Okay, so since the Urethane will not be as jumpy as a reactive you take advantage of the hook set motion, because it won't deviate from the line to the pocket like a reactive. Unlike reactive, the high hard one is a good thing.
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Videos at:
http://youtube.com/user/Gsnap21

"The framers of our Constitution believed that if the people were to be sovereign and belong to different religions at the same time then our official religion would have to be no religion at all. It was a bold experiment then as it is now. It wasn't meant to make us comfortable, it was meant to make us free."