Can't remember where I read this but it was explained like this:

Pin; For every 1 1/8" farther or closer to PAP than leverage (3 3/8) you reduce
the balls flare potential by 1/3. The further you get from PAP the later the ball will want to roll and the more energy it will have for the backend, vise versa the closer the earlier and smoother. You have to decide what type of weak drill you want. My thoughts are to use a shorter pin to PAP on short patterns for control and longer for long patterns for recovery.

After you decide when you want the ball to roll then you can make fine adjustments to the length and shape with the Mass Bias.
I use the degree system which if you are not familiar with you go from PAP to pin then pin to MB the angle is determined with these 2 lines.
As you increase from 0° to 75° the reaction will go from weaker arc to maximum reaction/flip
from 75° to 105° the reaction will decrease,
from 105° to 155° reaction will increase again but with increased length.
there is also a 315° drilling but it is very specialized, it will reduce changes in reaction due to release differences the ball should follow the same path even if you let up on it or bump it on release.
I don't think I will ever try the 315° due to the fact that it removes some of the balls versatility.

I prefer to keep the pin between 4" and 5" and move the MB around for adjustments, this seems to work best for me.





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STORMIN1

Concept is this,

If you drill your weak equipment weak and your strong equipment super strong you make the equipment so specialized that is almost unusable for the normal handed.

In the past I hung around a very reputable pro shop.  The #1 problem with customer satisfaction was strong equipment drilled strong.

A slow speed bowler would often buy a heavy oil monster take it out to his league which is maybe medium and the thing would roll out.

He'd come in and want his money back as the thing only hooked in the first 35 feet in essence and then went pretty straight.  A lot of weekly bowlers often only see the hook in the back.

In the opposite situation weak balls drilled weak also creates the opposite problem.  Balls that skid, don't flare and don't hook for the average handed player except on the dryest of dry.

Recently received a sonic boom that was polished to 2500 and drilled weak for the guy I asked to test it for me.  Very medium handed throwing strike after strike with his label leverage drilled Ebonite Predator(3 3/8 X 5)..  This 5 1/2 X 5 1/2 drilled highly polished Sonic Boom wouldn't wrinkle for him.  Can you say skidd!!

Therefore unless you are bowling on the heaviest oil you've ever seen then drilling your AMF Evo Tour or Reaction Roll or ARc 3 3/8 X 1 is just going to make this ball virtually unusable unless you accidently are bowling on a punctured Iraqi pipeline.

REgards,

Luckylefty

Also please note, it is my experience that when one gets a low flare ball and drills a long pin to pap on it a situation is created where there is almost no midlane move on the ball.  Midlane is an important quality to have on many shots today.