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Author Topic: Dry lane problems  (Read 1110 times)

jjweb

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Dry lane problems
« on: March 02, 2004, 11:11:04 PM »
I’m having a REALLY bad problem handling dry/second/third shift conditions; I bought a Sonic X thinking it would help solve the problem. I was dead wrong! In fact, it flips even harder than my other stuff on dry. Its drilled pin 1/2” inch above ring, CG in the palm, polished to about 2000. I just can’t control the reaction, and it’s getting very frustrating. It gets so bad that, I get a better reaction and hit with my plastic. I’m afraid in tournament play that if the lanes dry up too quickly, I won’t be able to control my ball reaction.

I was thinking about getting a Buzzsaw XXXL?  The plastic cover with a dynamic core looks pretty good to me, and the fact that I could use it as a spare ball. I also thought about a Barrage, but I’m afraid I will have the same problem as I do with the Sonic X.

Any thoughts and suggestions are greatly appreciated!

--------------------
Josh


When in doubt, go buy Dyno-Thane.

 

jjweb

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Re: Dry lane problems
« Reply #1 on: March 03, 2004, 11:33:48 PM »
I did try a green pad, but the ball was pretty much DOA at the pocket. I almost left a 8-10 split on every shot, it was that weak! I haven't tried a grey pad yet though...
--------------------
Josh


When in doubt, go buy Dyno-Thane.

agroves

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Re: Dry lane problems
« Reply #2 on: March 04, 2004, 12:02:03 AM »
How about a balance hole??  Do you have one??  Ck this out:

Compliments of Luckylefty:

Show
1: The most common, weightholes on pap add earlier roll midlane and stability(less backend)
2. Weightholes past pap about 1 inch, drilled with 0 lateral pitch seem to maintain the reaction if the ball is drilled illegal and thrown and then a legal making weighthole added. In other words midlane is not increased with this weighthole and backend stays the same as when illegal.
3. Weightholes on the VAL or pap and angled outwards(from grip center) 1/2 inch. These weightholes are awesome, often adding midlane and still maintaining the backend of an over limit sideweight ball, which is now legal.
4. Weightholes past pap one inch and angled out 1/2 inch, these weightholes do not add midlane and then the outward angle maintains all the backend of the ball when thrown illegally.

There are many caveats above. Balls where the weightholes take sideweight down from about 1/2 ounce down to 0 or negative do start to add more and more midlane. Weightholes however as described above taking sideweight down to the 3/4 of an ounce to 1/2 ounce area will give the above described reactions.

I have notes and tests on probably 200 to 300 tests of these concepts, others tested and not discussed, weightholes 2 1/4 inch past pap, weightholes 3 3/8 past pap, weightholes inside pap, weightholes down and inside pap, weightholes on grip center, weightholes of 1 1/4 inch size, weightholes deep and 1/2 inch.
Oh you get the picture, too many!

It's been fun but I wouldn't recommend it for others who want to be good bowlers! Let some sort of nut like myself do these for you!

REgards,

Luckylefty
PS If you really want to be a nut, I highly recommend everyone throw their cg kicked out balls illegal in a practice session, THEN put your weighthole in. Not the usual method of drilling illegal, guessing on a weighthole and then putting a hole in! Then you will see the validity of the ideas above.
PPS For example I purchased a ball from Charlest, he and I discussed the reaction. The WRW Jr.. He described it as fairly weak like a Columbia Beast.

Well I didn't want that. So I drilled strong and illegal(pre weighthole) and threw. Side weight about 1 1/2 and I loved the look. So I kept it, the reaction stayed just the same with a weighthole placed 6 1/4 (1 inch from my PAP)from the grip center and angled out 1/2 inch!

Balls I want a slight taming on the val and angled out 1/2 inch, balls I want to really smooth out holes on val or pap straight in!

PPPPFINAL Agroves I gave my answer on the basis of the following, a desire to tame(I think that means smooth) and secondly a desire to maintain hit.
The val with 1/2 inch angle works for me! To accomplish both above!

Good Luck,
Andrew


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FUFU
"Act like you've been there before"

jjweb

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Re: Dry lane problems
« Reply #3 on: March 04, 2004, 12:17:29 AM »
No, it doesn't have a weighthole. Hmmmm, very interesting....

I was also thinking about the Visionary Slate Blue Gargoyle? Anybody have any experience with it? How would a Pearl Urethane handle a dry/drying midlane and backend?
--------------------
Josh


When in doubt, go buy Dyno-Thane.

Edited on 3/4/2004 1:18 AM

Edited on 3/4/2004 11:51 AM

jjweb

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Re: Dry lane problems
« Reply #4 on: March 04, 2004, 11:10:19 AM »
It gets dry enough to where a plastic hooks 6-8 boards or more, but all of my reactive stuff is just way too strong.

I got to thinking about it, maybe I should stick with a plastic on dry? I guess I should buy another one, this time get it in a 15lb, everything else I throw is 15lb minus my plastic (14lb).
--------------------
Josh


When in doubt, go buy Dyno-Thane.

jjweb

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Re: Dry lane problems
« Reply #5 on: March 04, 2004, 06:20:11 PM »
I encounter the dry the most while practicing, so I know by the 4th going 5th game, they are pretty darn dry. What I'm concerned about is tournament play. I know how fast and how much the lanes breakdown, so I want to have a competitive edge. I usually throw about 12 games in practice, so pretty much all the oil is gone by then.


Isn't knowing how to play a certain pattern or lane breakdown (IE...Dry), give you an edge over the competition on that short of shot?
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Josh


When in doubt, go buy Dyno-Thane.