Author Topic: Wet/Dry (Read 7847 times)

leftybowler70 · « **on:** June 06, 2017, 09:03:21 AM »

I seen that their was a topic asking what's our definition of dry lanes, and it got to thinking, I've always understood wet/dry conditions, but how can you determine when they are actually playing this way?

Obviously on our side, we experience it more than righties. So be family. How can you determine wet/dry, and what's the best way to attack/surface?

Thanks in advance.

ignitebowling · « **Reply #1 on:** June 06, 2017, 09:17:56 AM »

It depends on the bowler and the style. For me this season we went into several weeks of a very kinda wet/dry reaction or what I consider flying backends.

Most of my usual stuff playing on the right side near my usual area was too strong down lane. Moving in had more then normal oil and it was easy to send the ball out past you desired break point, and if you were a little soft or inside the ball really checked up.

Drilled a Delirium Shock with a 2" pin to pap and was able to move right and have a wonderful look. Ball picks up sooner burning energy and when it gets to the stronger down lane friction it's very controlled finish to the pocket vs other equipment with a 5" pin that would really go side ways on the backend. Usually works for 2 games before opening up and going to my other equipment. The 2" pin was great for straighter angles but once they open up, swinging the ball a little would not carry well. Flat 10s and 7s because the ball has no drive.

avabob · « **Reply #2 on:** June 06, 2017, 09:45:08 AM »

It depends on whether you are talking about wet dry across the lane or wet dry coming off the end of the oil. Most house shots are are wet dry around 10 board when fresh. This wet dry tends to reward high rev players who can play a lot of out angle or straight players with good speed, especially as the shot breaks down. Carry can get tough for tweeners as they have to transition in without enough revs.

leftybowler70 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 06, 2017, 10:10:16 AM »

I meant off the oil around the 10 board (straight). Thanks for the clarification avabob, I am a hi rev/ lower speed tweener, thanks for the insite.

giddyupddp · « **Reply #4 on:** June 06, 2017, 12:24:45 PM »

I would agree with avabob where almost all house shots will be wet/dry and I personally struggle when its more of a cliff where often in my house there is a cliff around 7 where you hit 8 there is a ton of oil and hit 6 its dry like a bumper. Shot in my league was like this most of the time and its enhanced at one end of the house where the topography always made the last 12-14 lanes hook more for right handers.

leftybowler70 · « **Reply #5 on:** June 06, 2017, 03:17:13 PM »

Giddy, thanks for your Observation and for sharing.

HackJandy · « **Reply #6 on:** June 06, 2017, 03:47:17 PM »

One edge I guess to throwing one of the (newer) Burgundy Hammers is being to able to get away with being less concerned about wet and dry front to back (unless too dry then that is what the Blue Hammer is for lol). Of course (at least way I throw it) you trade entry angle (and a bit of carry) for that early consistent roll but also real nice to not have to worry about surprises on the back end. I much prefer predictability even if it results in less miss room and more single pin spares. Spare shooting is one my strengths and reading the lanes well not so much.

spmcgivern · « **Reply #7 on:** June 06, 2017, 03:56:23 PM »

To continue on what HackJandy and ignitebowling stated, wet/dry can be different depending on the ball and style. Regardless of the ball or condition, throwing with zero rotation would eliminate any real concerns with wet/dry. Likewise, a bowler with 90Â° rotation could experience wet/dry on most shots.

Brandon Riley · « **Reply #8 on:** June 06, 2017, 06:40:06 PM »

My initial reaction to seeing wet/dry lanes is to shut down my angles which should keep me safely in the pocket. There is nothing more frustrating to than to miss out and watch my ball overhook.

I'd also throw a lower response bowling ball which is typically a solid with either a lower or shorter pin. I'm a Brunswick guy so that would be something like a Fanatic BTU, Danger Zone or Freakshow Solid with the pin NOT over my fingers.

From there its just a matter of doing a little tinkering with my speed, angles and loft to get the ball to mix the pins correctly.

HackJandy · « **Reply #9 on:** June 07, 2017, 10:54:47 AM »

>Fanatic BTU, Danger Zone

Even as a Hammer guy those are the two Brunswick balls that interest me the most. The cover stocks on both look amazing for conditions I see. Alas closet full of balls already. Still have my BVP Rampage (4000 polished) from another life which is probably a bit weaker than the Vint Danger Zone (edit: that pearlized black ice special edition version looks amazing, if didn't have rampage would have that ball for sure) but fills big hole in my arsenal.

Impending Doom · « **Reply #10 on:** June 07, 2017, 11:01:16 AM »

I use low RG balls with a lot of surface until I beat up the track, then move in with less surface and a faster response. I usually get stuck in the tweener hell area, so I have to do something to smooth out what I see. I really like my AMF Darkness, King Cobra, and 900 Global X for this. Then I can move in with either a Night Hawk SE or Drift, then ball down to a Boost.

LarsCarring · « **Reply #11 on:** June 08, 2017, 06:09:20 AM »

Quote from: ignitebowling on June 06, 2017, 09:17:56 AM

It depends on the bowler and the style. For me this season we went into several weeks of a very kinda wet/dry reaction or what I consider flying backends.

Most of my usual stuff playing on the right side near my usual area was too strong down lane. Moving in had more then normal oil and it was easy to send the ball out past you desired break point, and if you were a little soft or inside the ball really checked up.

Drilled a Delirium Shock with a 2" pin to pap and was able to move right and have a wonderful look. Ball picks up sooner burning energy and when it gets to the stronger down lane friction it's very controlled finish to the pocket vs other equipment with a 5" pin that would really go side ways on the backend. Usually works for 2 games before opening up and going to my other equipment. The 2" pin was great for straighter angles but once they open up, swinging the ball a little would not carry well. Flat 10s and 7s because the ball has no drive.

Thank you very much, I was reading all the comment and your is the one I find more useful.

LuckyLefty · « **Reply #12 on:** June 09, 2017, 01:11:55 PM »

I saw this video and thought of this post. It is about an old particle ball hit with polish with the intention of solving side to side wet/dry the version I see with harsh side to side barriers and bounce area.

https://youtu.be/2j_-oe-8Ra0

My underst an ding with talking to staffers is similar can be done to today's solid cover reactive by hitting with 500 or 1000 and the lightly sheen in for length. The goal to burn off energy early for a smoother reaction off the siDE rock hard barrier!

Regards,

Luckylefty

Author Topic: Wet/Dry (Read 7847 times)

leftybowler70

Wet/Dry

ignitebowling

Re: Wet/Dry

avabob

Re: Wet/Dry

leftybowler70

Re: Wet/Dry

giddyupddp

Re: Wet/Dry

leftybowler70

Re: Wet/Dry

HackJandy

Re: Wet/Dry

spmcgivern

Re: Wet/Dry

Brandon Riley

Re: Wet/Dry

HackJandy

Re: Wet/Dry

Impending Doom

Re: Wet/Dry

LarsCarring

Re: Wet/Dry

LuckyLefty

Re: Wet/Dry