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Author Topic: help with the SHARK PATTERN  (Read 963 times)

Ceo of DcYg bowling club

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help with the SHARK PATTERN
« on: October 27, 2008, 12:03:10 AM »
I bowled in a tourney this weekend and they put out what I was told the SHarK pattern.

THe shark has a breakpoint deep inside but this one didn't. Im a high rev guy and i was using a cell 600 grit and pin under. The ball still wouldn't move not even a little bit.

Does the real shark not have a breakpoint? Or was this a supped up shark?
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Ceo of DcYg bowling club

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Re: help with the SHARK PATTERN
« Reply #1 on: October 27, 2008, 08:33:55 AM »
I was playing deep inside leaving my break close to the headpin. and sometime the ball would back up and flare about two or three boards. and then when i did hit the pocket i  couldn't carry. because i was so close to the headpin
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Ceo of DcYg bowling club

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Re: help with the SHARK PATTERN
« Reply #2 on: October 27, 2008, 08:33:55 AM »
I was playing deep inside leaving my break close to the headpin. and sometime the ball would back up and flare about two or three boards. and then when i did hit the pocket i  couldn't carry. because i was so close to the headpin
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ramimac

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Re: help with the SHARK PATTERN
« Reply #3 on: October 27, 2008, 08:34:21 AM »
I am a high rev guy like you..   and what i found that worked was my fury pearl at 4000  playing 15 to 10-11 and it would move on the back...

what you need in my opinion is a ball that reacts quickly to the dry..

a gritty ball will not react quick enough since it is so short unless you are playing direct up 13 or someware in that area..
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Ceo of DcYg bowling club

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Re: help with the SHARK PATTERN
« Reply #4 on: October 27, 2008, 08:44:50 AM »
The was about two boards of hook (15,16)
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Dan Belcher

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Re: help with the SHARK PATTERN
« Reply #5 on: October 27, 2008, 08:48:32 AM »
The tricky part about the Shark can also be the lane surface itself.  How much friction's naturally present inside 2nd arrow at that particular bowling center can make a huge difference in how the pattern plays.  There also can be variances in what volume of oil is laid down, and how well-stripped the lanes are.  If you are going to be playing inside, I agree that you need to use something that responds quickly to friction in order to create entry angle.

Unlike you, I have a lower rev rate.  Therefore, I have little margin for error and poor carry playing inside on the Shark, especially once the carrydown hits.  My best luck on the Shark in my PBA Experience league this summer was taking a pin-down Cell at 1000 abralon and moving right.  I played the lanes almost identical to how Norm Duke tackled the Shark pattern in this video, crossing at about 7 or 8 at the arrows and basically pointing it toward the headpin.  My carry was surprisingly good, but I had to be accurate.  It kept me in the 180-220 range each game, which was good enough to win the games in my league, so that's fine by me.

So the moral of the story?  There's more than one option, so don't be afraid to try different things.  Don't always go by how the pattern is "supposed" to be played.

ramimac

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Re: help with the SHARK PATTERN
« Reply #6 on: October 27, 2008, 08:50:18 AM »
Sorry it is on 6:30 here.. not awake yet.. i ment to say strait up 10 or 11..

so you have the pearl that you sen out to the break point or the sanded ball that you start up the break point..  

that was what i found.. but it does matter signifigantly the lanes you are on as well..

one house will play diffrent that onother with the same pattern..

due to age and warn surface..
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Ceo of DcYg bowling club

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Re: help with the SHARK PATTERN
« Reply #7 on: October 27, 2008, 08:54:02 AM »
basically the objest is to stay close to the headpin with a ball that won't flare too much and repsonds quickly to friction.
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bowlerdawg

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Re: help with the SHARK PATTERN
« Reply #8 on: October 27, 2008, 09:59:25 AM »
for me on the shark it was all about the ROLL
not skid / snap

soft hand, heavy roll, all the way up in the middle
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