BallReviews
General Category => Miscellaneous => Topic started by: tommyboy74 on August 28, 2013, 11:17:34 PM
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So week 1 is now in the books, and I got off to a good start. However, I think I saw one of the quickest transitions in a long time. For example, I started throwing 10-4 with my Critical Theory (around 19mph), and had a very nice line in game 1. Game 2, went down to my Outlaw, maintained a good look through the 4th frame.
That's when hell started for everyone. Basically the pattern was playing very flat, so most everyone had played somewhat inside, while 1 of my teammates played out, and I played further out. By the end of the night, I ended up finishing out at 30-10, throwing around 22mph (according to the lane radar) and using my Frantic. Regardless of what I threw, the ball was hooking way too much.
Even more interesting, some people switched to plastic, which also was hooking way more than it should.
With that being said, here is a fun question. Has anyone ever experienced a pattern where the lanes blew up very quickly? And if you have, what did you to do stay successful?
As for me, I ended up having to loft the ball to take some of the heads out of play and really amp up my speed. At least my spare game wasn't bad.
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Maybe it played flat, but I highly doubt it was. You've got guys playing all over the place on something that was probably over-walled to begin with. Thus making the lanes even more wet/dry.
My advice, stopping clawing on the ball and relax your hand and rotate through it. Playing "30-10" at 22 mph sounds like a lot of muscle being used.
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wood or synthetic?
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My Friday night every week. The lanes seem to blow up in a hurry and you down ball 2-3 balls and move left 15 boards over the last two games. Last year I averaged 228 for the first game all year but only ended at 208. Don't ask about game 3. Lol
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It's probably walled up to begin with, but nobody pays attention to the equipment they use. Critical Theory to start out? Sounds like a lot of ball for a house shot. Yeah the lanes might contribute to the breakdown a bit, but if everybody is throwing sponges, of course they're going to hell pretty quickly.
Last several years, we've bowled on tracked out Laneshield. You can go from a solid pocket shot to a big 4 the very next time on that lane, it goes in a hurry. Once everybody figured out not to use big hooking equipment though, it fixed a lot of the problems. Don't line up with your absolute best look the first game, play for the transition. I'd rather go 240-240-240 than 270-220-170.
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First rule of thumb on lane conditions. THS shots break down and get tougher, flat tournament patterns track and open up. What you describe is a little extreme, but part of the issue is the way you play the wall shot, and how many heavy handed guys are bowling on it. 10 out to 4 is really hooking it. With what I expect is you have a very high rev rate and axis rotation, and are going to need a lot more in the middle, and it isn't going to hold up.
It may get better as the weather cools down from summer heat. However, long term, your style probably doesn't lend itself to being versatile. This is not a big problem if you pretty much limit yourself to league bowling on house shots.
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I bowl a second shift league every week, and my advice is to keep your speed normal and KILL THE HAND. Weaker covers will help, too.
There comes a point when the lanes get so dry that revs really don't help you as much as they hurt you. Imagine the ball "floating" through the front half of the lane, then all you need is a little rotation. Let the ball hook instead of making it hook...
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I would say the heat is a big factor. If it's humid, the oil seems to get spotty. But that could just be the desert here in Texas. . .
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Urethane/urethane pearl. I bowl on some very dry conditions where the weakest reactive ball hooks a lot. Starting game one playing 25 to 10 with a Slingshot or Stike King. At any time I can move to up 10 with my Groove Urethane or Avalanche pearl urethane and it is like bowling on a very fresh shot.
If you try moving right with reactive it hooks off your hand.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylplbarn8GQ
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The weather plays a big part .
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Lol you call that dry? Can play 2nd arrow with a house ball at our place.
Urethane/urethane pearl. I bowl on some very dry conditions where the weakest reactive ball hooks a lot. Starting game one playing 25 to 10 with a Slingshot or Stike King. At any time I can move to up 10 with my Groove Urethane or Avalanche pearl urethane and it is like bowling on a very fresh shot.
If you try moving right with reactive it hooks off your hand.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylplbarn8GQ
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It's probably walled up to begin with, but nobody pays attention to the equipment they use. Critical Theory to start out? Sounds like a lot of ball for a house shot. Yeah the lanes might contribute to the breakdown a bit, but if everybody is throwing sponges, of course they're going to hell pretty quickly.
Last several years, we've bowled on tracked out Laneshield. You can go from a solid pocket shot to a big 4 the very next time on that lane, it goes in a hurry. Once everybody figured out not to use big hooking equipment though, it fixed a lot of the problems. Don't line up with your absolute best look the first game, play for the transition. I'd rather go 240-240-240 than 270-220-170.
The only reason that I started with the Critical Theory is that I didn't like the reaction I was getting from the Outlaw or Frantic. Normally at this house, I start with one of those 2 balls and then make minor moves as needed throughout the night. Last night just ended up being very unusual with how the lanes played.
In the second game, I moved in with the Frantic and speed, moving in, and taking some hand out helped me have a better night than many of the others. Carry was tough, but I ended up with makeable spares and that's what got me through the night.
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wood or synthetic?
These were AMF SPL that have been around for several years.
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Lol you call that dry? Can play 2nd arrow with a house ball at our place.
Urethane/urethane pearl. I bowl on some very dry conditions where the weakest reactive ball hooks a lot. Starting game one playing 25 to 10 with a Slingshot or Stike King. At any time I can move to up 10 with my Groove Urethane or Avalanche pearl urethane and it is like bowling on a very fresh shot.
If you try moving right with reactive it hooks off your hand.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylplbarn8GQ
Really? So a urethane house ball with pancake weight block? That would be the same ball as a urethane Groove I'm refering too. The AVP is about 5 boards stronger. I'm sure you already figured that....
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Nope, plastic house balls with nothing inside. Lay it down on 12, cross 2nd arrow, out to about 5 and snap back. Really crispy there. Used to play almost 4th arrow with an Avalanche Pearl a few years ago.
Lol you call that dry? Can play 2nd arrow with a house ball at our place.
Urethane/urethane pearl. I bowl on some very dry conditions where the weakest reactive ball hooks a lot. Starting game one playing 25 to 10 with a Slingshot or Stike King. At any time I can move to up 10 with my Groove Urethane or Avalanche pearl urethane and it is like bowling on a very fresh shot.
If you try moving right with reactive it hooks off your hand.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylplbarn8GQ
Really? So a urethane house ball with pancake weight block? That would be the same ball as a urethane Groove I'm refering too. The AVP is about 5 boards stronger. I'm sure you already figured that....
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Plastic house balls have a pancake weight block.
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The only reason that I started with the Critical Theory is that I didn't like the reaction I was getting from the Outlaw or Frantic. Normally at this house, I start with one of those 2 balls and then make minor moves as needed throughout the night. Last night just ended up being very unusual with how the lanes played.
In the second game, I moved in with the Frantic and speed, moving in, and taking some hand out helped me have a better night than many of the others. Carry was tough, but I ended up with makeable spares and that's what got me through the night.
You have to be aware what others are throwing and what lines they are on. In my first night of league I was very fortunate. Everyone was playing 6 to 10 boards right of me. So there were basically 8 guys bowling in the same area and some of them were using big hook monsters. I started with a Big Shot (4000 Grit) for 1st game. 2nd and 3rd Game I moved 2 to 6 boards left (also adjusting my target). Shot a very good series.
Now next week when we play another team, I can't take this successful outing and automatically apply it. There could be 6 guys playing same line as me. Obviously the shot will change dramatically. Usually in this league I am throwing my Urethane Ball (U2). It's very rare for me to use a Reactive (If lucky I can use reactive in the first game).
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Well if they do, that's all fine and good, but it doesn't have enough of an effect on hook potential of a house ball to even consider, does it? I'm not trying to argue or be an idiot, and I'm not trying to one up you, so we can just leave it at that. Plastic with a pancake can be bent pretty well at our center here.
Plastic house balls have a pancake weight block.
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Really? So a urethane house ball with pancake weight block?
You do realize that there are plenty of serviceable urethane balls from the 80's that work just fine in house conditions...find yourself a Faball Blue Nail or a Gold Roto Grenade and polish it to the hilt.
Even an old U2 that was polished will allow a nice easy play of toasted conditions blown apart by ten bowlers who refuse to use anything but the 'latest and greatest' despite it being overkill for a house shot in most league environs...
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Really? So a urethane house ball with pancake weight block?
You do realize that there are plenty of serviceable urethane balls from the 80's that work just fine in house conditions...find yourself a Faball Blue Nail or a Gold Roto Grenade and polish it to the hilt.
Even an old U2 that was polished will allow a nice easy play of toasted conditions blown apart by ten bowlers who refuse to use anything but the 'latest and greatest' despite it being overkill for a house shot in most league environs...
Yes. Which is my point I posted on the previous page
Urethane/urethane pearl. I bowl on some very dry conditions where the weakest reactive ball hooks a lot. Starting game one playing 25 to 10 with a Slingshot or Stike King. At any time I can move to up 10 with my Groove Urethane or Avalanche pearl urethane and it is like bowling on a very fresh shot.
If you try moving right with reactive it hooks off your hand.
My urethane of choice is the Red Groove followed by the AVP Urethane and here is why
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylplbarn8GQ
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First rule of thumb on lane conditions. THS shots break down and get tougher, flat tournament patterns track and open up.
Nice rule of thumb. THis fits w/ my experience, but I had never really articulated it. So do house conditions end up getting more wet/dry as the night goes on? What is the proper move for playing house condition? generally is it better to ball down and stay put, or better to move deeper? Granted, I understand that it depends on what the other players are doing to some extent.
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First rule of thumb on lane conditions. THS shots break down and get tougher, flat tournament patterns track and open up.
Nice rule of thumb. THis fits w/ my experience, but I had never really articulated it. So do house conditions end up getting more wet/dry as the night goes on? What is the proper move for playing house condition? generally is it better to ball down and stay put, or better to move deeper? Granted, I understand that it depends on what the other players are doing to some extent.
All patterns, not just house shots, I feel, is better to stay right as long as you possibly can. Moving in, too fast, is the main culprit of wet/dry conditions. Too often, on house shots, guys use the puddle in the middle as push, when they should be using it as hold.
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I would have to agree with Gizmo, the lanes around here can get very very dry. I have had to play 20 with the Classic U2. This year has started off a little better as was stated earlier that people are starting to realize to use weak stuff right away to keep oil on lane longer.
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I move right and switch over to a stroker shot by using less hand when my normal shot hooks too much due to the lanes drying out.
I sacrifice a hard hitting pocket shot for accuracy (and less crazy splits).
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Although the overall hook potential of urethane is less than reactive, it will not clear the heads on dry lanes and once you get left of 2 arrow I like seeing some push and a modest move at the backend so I can still carry the 10. Urethane is awesome right of 10 on oil patterns less than 37' where you want the ball to roll early and flatten out down the lane. I think the shape that you may want is max skid, with a little pop in the back to allow you to move your feet inside while getting your hand around the ball.
If I were to recommend a ball I would look at drilling a slingshot pin up about 5 or 5.5" to your axis. It is a low end ball with a core that actually has a low diff. It will get down the lane plenty and still have just enough down the lane to mix the pins enough to score. I hear bowlers tell me about how their "bang for your buck" low end balls such as Freezes, Cyclones, Misfits and Tropic Heats are too much on dry lanes but in all reality with differentials of around 0.035 they are not true dry lane balls.
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My Slingshot can cover a lot of boards on the dry. It wasn't till I increased my ball speed 1-1.5mph and reduced my tilt I was able to move right and keep it around 10. I feel like WRWjr throwing at a ten pin but the ball reacts strong and really carries well.
2" pin to pap
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In a way house shots to get more wet dry because of the balls ability to totally dry up the track, compared with the every increasing amount of oil in the middle. What actuall happens is is that on a 10 to 10 oil pattern the heads quickly break down in to about 15 board, but the mid lane area may still be fairly slick out to 10. This forces us to loop the ball wider and wider as the heads break down. That works well for high rev guys, but lower rev strokers do better if they can make parallel move in, bring the break point in along with the laydown point. In a way, strokers can actually out hook their rev rate causing carry to drowp
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Urethane doesn't carry like reactives. Learn to get deep and perfect John Jowdy's "drag release". Most skilled players use urethane on short patterns not when patterns blow up completely. This standing in your comfort zone using weak equipment is for folks that haven't moved on. If you really want to be good you have to use different releases with more modern equipment to carry. Time to learn some new tricks.
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Agree about urethane. The problem with urethane is that it will not create much entry angle. This is not an issue when there is enough head oil to play fairly direct and not give the pocket away. However even low rev guys get forced to play away from the pocket with urethane when the lanes get really toasted. Once you have to go away from the pocket, carry drops off too much. Only time I would use urethane inside is on the rare situation where I couldn't keep anything on the right side of the head pin with resin, even from inside 4th arrow.
You have to look at what other guys are doing. If anyone is scoring where are they playing them. A lot of bowlers get too rev dominant on todays high volume house shots. You can't really hit up on the ball on todays conditions.
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My point is that urethane will create MORE hook than reactive in the first 40' of the lane. The reduced hook potential is because it will be rolling out and have nothing left for the backend.
Kidlost, I like how the 2" pins roll on mid-lower end equipment as well, but personally I prefer them for staying right on fresh patterns under 40' as a less extreme alternative to urethane).
There is no shame in drilling a weak ball weak as it will create hold and if the lanes are super toasty will find some recovery. Don't expect messengers and godly carry, but it will keep you in play giving you a much better alternative than setting the ball down in the friction. Remember: the lane is 60' long by about 4' wide, so moving your feet inside until you find a little oil and using something that will help read the length of the lane is in my personal opinion the way to go here.
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I've drilled a lot of bowling balls with 5-6" pins for length which they have. The down lane reaction however is too strong. The 2" pin has plenty of length and isn't quite as strong down lane. Playing right with less tilt and higher speed on our current shot is the higher scoring percentage.
Trying to move in deeper with the Slingshot or Strike King or anything else is really fighting the lane. The more head oil us great but the amount of friction down lane is harsh.
Getting deep isn't a problem but the friction down lane leaves very little room for mistakes. The bowlers who start there and finish there are either strike or split results. With very little else in between.
With less tilt and more speed the ball can clear the heads easily and the friction down lane does all of the work. A lot less effort then moving left with this ball and throwing the ball normal.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMLzXDdm83Y
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I saw the same thing both first nights of my leagues!
Punched up a marvel-s bagged it after frame 4. My VRsolid took it to em tho!