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Author Topic: When a league pattern blows up completely...  (Read 8942 times)

tommyboy74

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When a league pattern blows up completely...
« on: August 28, 2013, 11:17:34 PM »
So week 1 is now in the books, and I got off to a good start.  However, I think I saw one of the quickest transitions in a long time.  For example, I started throwing 10-4 with my Critical Theory (around 19mph), and had a very nice line in game 1.  Game 2, went down to my Outlaw, maintained a good look through the 4th frame. 

That's when hell started for everyone.  Basically the pattern was playing very flat, so most everyone had played somewhat inside, while 1 of my teammates played out, and I played further out.   By the end of the night, I ended up finishing out at 30-10, throwing around 22mph (according to the lane radar) and using my Frantic.  Regardless of what I threw, the ball was hooking way too much.

Even more interesting, some people switched to plastic, which also was hooking way more than it should. 

With that being said, here is a fun question.  Has anyone ever experienced a pattern where the lanes blew up very quickly?  And if you have, what did you to do stay successful?

As for me, I ended up having to loft the ball to take some of the heads out of play and really amp up my speed.  At least my spare game wasn't bad.
« Last Edit: August 28, 2013, 11:19:10 PM by tommyboy74 »
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kidlost2000

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Re: When a league pattern blows up completely...
« Reply #16 on: August 30, 2013, 08:59:13 AM »
Plastic house balls have a pancake weight block.
…… you can't  add a physics term to a bowling term and expect it to mean something.

trash heap

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Re: When a league pattern blows up completely...
« Reply #17 on: August 30, 2013, 10:34:10 AM »
The only reason that I started with the Critical Theory is that I didn't like the reaction I was getting from the Outlaw or Frantic.  Normally at this house, I start with one of those 2 balls and then make minor moves as needed throughout the night.  Last night just ended up being very unusual with how the lanes played.

In the second game, I moved in with the Frantic and speed, moving in, and taking some hand out helped me have a better night than many of the others.  Carry was tough, but I ended up with makeable spares and that's what got me through the night.

You have to be aware what others are throwing and what lines they are on. In my first night of league I was very fortunate. Everyone was playing 6 to 10 boards right of me. So there were basically 8 guys bowling in the same area and some of them were using big hook monsters. I started with a Big Shot (4000 Grit) for 1st game. 2nd and 3rd Game I moved 2 to 6 boards left (also adjusting my target). Shot a very good series.

Now next week when we play another team, I can't take this successful outing and automatically apply it. There could be 6 guys playing same line as me. Obviously the shot will change dramatically. Usually in this league I am throwing my Urethane Ball (U2). It's very rare for me to use a Reactive (If lucky I can use reactive in the first game).

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Gizmo823

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Re: When a league pattern blows up completely...
« Reply #18 on: August 31, 2013, 10:08:23 AM »
Well if they do, that's all fine and good, but it doesn't have enough of an effect on hook potential of a house ball to even consider, does it?  I'm not trying to argue or be an idiot, and I'm not trying to one up you, so we can just leave it at that.  Plastic with a pancake can be bent pretty well at our center here. 

Plastic house balls have a pancake weight block.
What would you be if you were attached to another object by an inclined plane, wrapped helically around an axis?

michelle

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Re: When a league pattern blows up completely...
« Reply #19 on: August 31, 2013, 02:45:30 PM »
Really?  So a urethane house ball with pancake weight block?

You do realize that there are plenty of serviceable urethane balls from the 80's that work just fine in house conditions...find yourself a Faball Blue Nail or a Gold Roto Grenade and polish it to the hilt. 

Even an old U2 that was polished will allow a nice easy play of toasted conditions blown apart by ten bowlers who refuse to use anything but the 'latest and greatest' despite it being overkill for a house shot in most league environs...

kidlost2000

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Re: When a league pattern blows up completely...
« Reply #20 on: September 01, 2013, 05:43:34 AM »
Really?  So a urethane house ball with pancake weight block?

You do realize that there are plenty of serviceable urethane balls from the 80's that work just fine in house conditions...find yourself a Faball Blue Nail or a Gold Roto Grenade and polish it to the hilt. 

Even an old U2 that was polished will allow a nice easy play of toasted conditions blown apart by ten bowlers who refuse to use anything but the 'latest and greatest' despite it being overkill for a house shot in most league environs...


Yes. Which is my point  I posted on the previous page



Urethane/urethane pearl. I bowl on some very dry conditions where the weakest reactive ball hooks a lot. Starting game one playing 25 to 10 with a Slingshot or Stike King. At any time I can move to up 10 with my Groove Urethane or Avalanche pearl urethane and it is like bowling on a very fresh shot.

If you try moving right with reactive it hooks off your hand
.


My urethane of choice is the Red Groove followed by the AVP Urethane and here is why

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylplbarn8GQ
« Last Edit: September 01, 2013, 05:57:16 AM by kidlost2000 »
…… you can't  add a physics term to a bowling term and expect it to mean something.

davidinil

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Re: When a league pattern blows up completely...
« Reply #21 on: September 02, 2013, 11:50:19 AM »
First rule of thumb on lane conditions.  THS shots break down and get tougher, flat tournament patterns track and open up. 

Nice rule of thumb.  THis fits w/ my experience, but I had never really articulated it.  So do house conditions end up getting more wet/dry as the night goes on?  What is the proper move for playing house condition?  generally is it better to ball down and stay put, or better to move deeper?    Granted, I understand that it depends on what the other players are doing to some extent. 

northface28

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Re: When a league pattern blows up completely...
« Reply #22 on: September 02, 2013, 03:42:08 PM »
First rule of thumb on lane conditions.  THS shots break down and get tougher, flat tournament patterns track and open up. 

Nice rule of thumb.  THis fits w/ my experience, but I had never really articulated it.  So do house conditions end up getting more wet/dry as the night goes on?  What is the proper move for playing house condition?  generally is it better to ball down and stay put, or better to move deeper?    Granted, I understand that it depends on what the other players are doing to some extent. 

All patterns, not just house shots, I feel, is better to stay right as long as you possibly can. Moving in, too fast, is the main culprit of wet/dry conditions. Too often, on house shots, guys use the puddle in the middle as push, when they should be using it as hold.
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chrisleftwich

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Re: When a league pattern blows up completely...
« Reply #23 on: September 05, 2013, 09:45:41 AM »
I would have to agree with Gizmo, the lanes around here can get very very dry.  I have had to play 20 with the Classic U2.  This year has started off a little better as was stated earlier that people are starting to realize to use weak stuff right away to keep oil on lane longer. 
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hudman

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Re: When a league pattern blows up completely...
« Reply #24 on: September 06, 2013, 12:21:28 PM »
I move right and switch over to a stroker shot by using less hand when my normal shot hooks too much due to the lanes drying out.

I sacrifice a hard hitting pocket shot for accuracy (and less crazy splits).

Brandon Riley

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Re: When a league pattern blows up completely...
« Reply #25 on: September 06, 2013, 01:30:31 PM »
Although the overall hook potential of urethane is less than reactive, it will not clear the heads on dry lanes and once you get left of 2 arrow I like seeing some push and a modest move at the backend so I can still carry the 10.  Urethane is awesome right of 10 on oil patterns less than 37' where you want the ball to roll early and flatten out down the lane.  I think the shape that you may want is max skid, with a little pop in the back to allow you to move your feet inside while getting your hand around the ball.

If I were to recommend a ball I would look at drilling a slingshot pin up about 5 or 5.5" to your axis.  It is a low end ball with a core that actually has a low diff.  It will get down the lane plenty and still have just enough down the lane to mix the pins enough to score.  I hear bowlers tell me about how their "bang for your buck" low end balls such as Freezes, Cyclones, Misfits and Tropic Heats are too much on dry lanes but in all reality with differentials of around 0.035 they are not true dry lane balls.
« Last Edit: September 06, 2013, 01:35:39 PM by Brandon Riley »
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kidlost2000

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Re: When a league pattern blows up completely...
« Reply #26 on: September 06, 2013, 06:24:53 PM »
My Slingshot can cover a lot of boards on the dry. It wasn't till I increased my ball speed 1-1.5mph and reduced my tilt I was able to move right and keep it around 10. I feel like WRWjr throwing at a ten pin but the ball reacts strong and really carries well.

2" pin to pap
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avabob

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Re: When a league pattern blows up completely...
« Reply #27 on: September 06, 2013, 06:50:53 PM »
In a way house shots to get more wet dry because of the balls ability to totally dry up the track, compared with the every increasing amount of oil in the middle.  What actuall happens is is that on a 10 to 10 oil pattern the heads quickly break down in to about 15 board, but the mid lane area may still be fairly slick out to 10.  This forces us to loop the ball wider and wider as the heads break down.  That works well for high rev guys, but lower rev strokers do better if they can make parallel move in, bring the break point in along with the laydown point.  In a way, strokers can actually out hook their rev rate causing carry to drowp

scotts33

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Re: When a league pattern blows up completely...
« Reply #28 on: September 06, 2013, 07:13:30 PM »
Urethane doesn't carry like reactives.  Learn to get deep and perfect John Jowdy's "drag release".  Most skilled players use urethane on short patterns not when  patterns blow up completely.  This standing in your comfort zone using weak equipment is for folks that haven't moved on.  If you really want to be good you have to use different releases with more modern equipment to carry.  Time to learn some new tricks.
Scott

avabob

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Re: When a league pattern blows up completely...
« Reply #29 on: September 06, 2013, 08:58:09 PM »
Agree about urethane.  The problem with urethane is that it will not create much entry angle.  This is not an issue when there is enough head oil to play fairly direct and not give the pocket away.  However even low rev guys get forced to play away from the pocket with urethane when the lanes get really toasted.  Once you have to go away from the pocket, carry drops off too much.  Only time I would use urethane  inside is on the rare situation where I couldn't keep anything on the right side of the head pin with resin, even from inside 4th arrow. 

You have to look at what other guys are doing.  If anyone is scoring where are they playing them.  A lot of bowlers get too rev dominant on todays high volume house shots.  You can't really hit up on the ball on todays conditions.       

Brandon Riley

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Re: When a league pattern blows up completely...
« Reply #30 on: September 07, 2013, 11:34:01 AM »
My point is that urethane will create MORE hook than reactive in the first 40' of the lane.  The reduced hook potential is because it will be rolling out and have nothing left for the backend.
Kidlost, I like how the 2" pins roll on mid-lower end equipment as well, but personally I prefer them for staying right on fresh patterns under 40' as a less extreme alternative to urethane).
There is no shame in drilling a weak ball weak as it will create hold and if the lanes are super toasty will find some recovery.  Don't expect messengers and godly carry, but it will keep you in play giving you a much better alternative than setting the ball down in the friction.  Remember: the lane is 60' long by about 4' wide, so moving your feet inside until you find a little oil and using something that will help read the length of the lane is in my personal opinion the way to go here.
Brandon Riley
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