Author Topic: Which adjustment is right? (Read 1717 times)

Nollster · « **on:** March 17, 2004, 05:08:48 PM »

During my first 2 lessons, my coach told me that when I start creeping a little nosey, move back about 3-6" on the approach. If I start creeping a little deep, move up about 3-6". The philosopy being that if you move back, the ball will stay in the oil a fraction longer and delay it's move just enough to bring it back into the pocket. By moving up, I get out of the oil a little sooner, the break will happen sooner and bring me back to the pocket. It works perfectly and I thoroughly understand the concept. When I was talking about this with a couple guys last night, they thought I was off my rocker!! They told me I should be doing the exact opposite! I'm a little puzzled by this -- we didn't get to finish the conversation, so I don't know why they think this. Can anyone shed some light on the subject? Also, what adjustments do you look to when you start leaving 7s or 10s?

livespive · « **Reply #1 on:** March 18, 2004, 08:14:40 AM »

IMO

Both are actually true

When you are coming in heavy you do want to move
back and let the ball get into the oil. That is until
the heads break down. When the heads are fried is when you
want to do the reverse and move forward. The idea there is that you are trying to get the ball out of the dry heads sooner.
--------------------
Eric T. Spivey, P.E.
Visionary Test Staff Member

Pinbuster · « **Reply #2 on:** March 18, 2004, 08:24:49 AM »

Well I agree with your friends.

Moving back makes the lane longer (assuming you end up shorter at the foul line) that will give the ball more time to hook so you could go high.

The caveat in all of this is that some bowlers will still get to the same point on the approach at release. If they do then it can increase your ball speed slightly helping you get off the nose.

I personally only move forward and back for carry. My personal adjustment in the situation you described is to move my feet and target inside getting into the extra oil in the middle.

shotmaker · « **Reply #3 on:** March 18, 2004, 08:26:15 AM »

I would suggest a new coach. Moving 3-6" back or forward on the aproach is a huge myth. Adjustments on normal patterns are very easy. Hitting too high? Move left, Too light? Move right (for righties, opposite for lefties). Basically whatever way the ball is over or under hooking that is the direction you move. Moving back and forth 3-6" on the aproach??? I would never teach this to anyone, just go ahead and do it then look down at the line and watch in amazement as your slide foot is in the same exact spot.

jimensminger · « **Reply #4 on:** March 18, 2004, 08:28:16 AM »

if you are seeing a coach, stick with your coaches advice. "too many cooks spoil the broth",..everyone is going to have their own way of doing things,..if you are taking the time to see and use a coach, do just that, ...
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je

omegabowler · « **Reply #5 on:** March 18, 2004, 08:47:15 AM »

There are on 5 adjustments but the variations are endless.

Speed
Angle
Release
Equipment
Loft

when dealing Angle you have a whole slew of adjustments from subtle to extreme.

master the ones your coach is telling you. he may be pacing your knowledge of adjustments.

some adjustments blur the line between categories so you have to have a a base skill set developed.

print out this thread and have a good heart to heart with your coach. make one of your lessons a look into the whole game your coach is helping you with.

we can not see you bowl and there maybe something that he see's that has driven him to tell you this adjustment first.

remember. Unless you can duplicate a shot from start to finish. most all adjustments are useless. that is why the sell so many balls. Most forget about these subtle adjustments and grab a new ball.

--------------------
"deserves got nothing to do with it."
-- William Munny

Nollster · « **Reply #6 on:** March 18, 2004, 09:06:02 AM »

quote:
I would suggest a new coach. Moving 3-6" back or forward on the aproach is a huge myth. Adjustments on normal patterns are very easy. Hitting too high? Move left, Too light? Move right (for righties, opposite for lefties). Basically whatever way the ball is over or under hooking that is the direction you move. Moving back and forth 3-6" on the aproach??? I would never teach this to anyone, just go ahead and do it then look down at the line and watch in amazement as your slide foot is in the same exact spot.

I have to disagree with you here. When I make the move back, I end up shorter than normal and the ball moves back into the pocket. As someone else brought up, as long as the heads aren't fried, this really seems to make sense -- we're talking about a 3-6" adjustment at the start to effectively change where the ball hits the pins by about an inch at most. No target or ball speed change. Seems much easier than moving left or right and possibly having to change targets, too.

Nollster · « **Reply #7 on:** March 18, 2004, 09:09:31 AM »

quote:
IMO

Both are actually true

When you are coming in heavy you do want to move
back and let the ball get into the oil. That is until
the heads break down. When the heads are fried is when you
want to do the reverse and move forward. The idea there is that you are trying to get the ball out of the dry heads sooner.

I think the broken down heads scenario is what they were talking about. Now that I think about it, one of them said something to me about how I'm throwing the ball out there further than they were, so that must be why it worked the way I do it. I wasn't trying to throw it out there on purpose -- the ball was a little sticky last night and kept hanging on my thumb.....

kendog · « **Reply #8 on:** March 18, 2004, 09:16:24 AM »

I hate to add to your confusion, but in my game the exact opposite from what your coach said is my experience.

If I'm not quite getting the ball to come up flush, I back up an inch or two to give the ball a little more time to roll up. If I'm nosey, I either move left or forwards depending on the severity of the reaction. By moving closer to the pins, you shortened the distance the ball has to work. I will say, I play a four step approach from the front dots; so I have room to use these adjustments.

A lot of guys with five step don't move forward and back at all, using side to side moves, hand adjustments, and speed/loft changes.
--------------------

kendog

avoids spare shooting at all costs
just throw strikes

Magic Carpet · « **Reply #9 on:** March 18, 2004, 09:46:24 AM »

Isn't this a wonderful game!
Nearly everyone is right.
God I love this game.
Ron Clifton

Want to know more?
Come to the Ballreviews gathering in May

Nollster · « **Reply #10 on:** March 18, 2004, 11:10:25 AM »

quote:
Isn't this a wonderful game!
Nearly everyone is right.
God I love this game.
Ron Clifton

Want to know more?
Come to the Ballreviews gathering in May

I'm so sad I can't make the gathering, but I will be back at Shady Grove in May!!

Fluxuateher · « **Reply #11 on:** March 18, 2004, 11:43:26 AM »

Nollster - Lots of advice here. Many ideas to consider. And that is the point. Never be afraid to try things for yourself. If you find something that works for you, then that is the right move! Experiment, try things, keep the ones that work or that you like and shelve the ones that don't. Things will always be changing for you too so don't throw any of them away, they may be the answer sometime later.

Author Topic: Which adjustment is right? (Read 1717 times)

Nollster

Which adjustment is right?

livespive

Re: Which adjustment is right?

Pinbuster

Re: Which adjustment is right?

shotmaker

Re: Which adjustment is right?

jimensminger

Re: Which adjustment is right?

omegabowler

Re: Which adjustment is right?

Nollster

Re: Which adjustment is right?

Nollster

Re: Which adjustment is right?

kendog

Re: Which adjustment is right?

Magic Carpet

Re: Which adjustment is right?

Nollster

Re: Which adjustment is right?

Fluxuateher

Re: Which adjustment is right?