Sometimes there is what the ball is out of box, and what it is after some lane shine.
Right out of box the Blue Tank is somewhat diggy, and will react very early to friction. If this is what you want, then may need to frequently resurface it, or hit it with some 500 grit sanding pads. Actually, if that is what someone wants, then just buy a Carbide Tank or some other "urethane."
Regardless, my Blue Tank now has 55 games on it in competition and probably that more or more in practice.
Once the ball lane shines you get a weak, controllable ball, that is stronger off the friction than older "urethane." Or perhaps I should say it's more continuous. And more of a dry lane ball, than something that will grab early in the oil.
Some of the other "urathene" type balls out more are very diggy, and it's hard to project them downlane. The Blue Tank can get through the front well. But you need to put, something like 15 - 20 games on the ball to really know what you have.
In comparison the Carbide Tank is much more diggy, but with similar motion.
The Blue Tank is a true in between reactive and traditional urethane. The differential is pretty low. I have mine drilled almost max flare. I get some oil ring separation but not much. I wouldn't play around with layouts, because you need some track flare to get oil ring separation to avoid carry down.
Likes:
Controllable. Gets down lane in lighter oil, but still has some snap on back end.
I usually see terrible under/over in league. From my little more than 400 rev rate and 2 degrees of axis tilt. Blue Tank blends out the wet/dry better than anything else I've tried. So I've used in a lot in league.
Great for some short to medium sport patters. If you want to play a tighter angle.
Dislikes:
Need to put some games on it to really know what you have. Can't handle too much oil.
