win a ball from Bowling.com

Author Topic: Bal burning up?  (Read 8785 times)

12XSECH

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 379
Bal burning up?
« on: May 23, 2013, 07:06:00 AM »
Everyone said on heavy oil to use a ball with more surface....But when that ball dont hook in the oil the answer is "The ball is burning up to much energy". How is it burning up energy when its skidding in oil?

 

TWOHAND834

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4350
Re: Bal burning up?
« Reply #1 on: May 23, 2013, 08:10:21 AM »
What ball are we talking about and what surface do you have it at?
Steven Vance
Former Pro Shop Operator
Former Classic Products Assistant Manager

12XSECH

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 379
Re: Bal burning up?
« Reply #2 on: May 23, 2013, 08:24:31 AM »
It could be any heavy oil ball and lets say the surface is at 800 or 1000. A long oil pattern like rt 66...Ball dont hook.... its burning up....something shiny...skids past break point. The question is on any ball meant for heavy that has alot of surface on it and it doesnt hook, how is it burning up when its skidding?

Good Times Good Times

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 6462
  • INTJ Personality
Re: Bal burning up?
« Reply #3 on: May 23, 2013, 08:54:06 AM »
Not 100% sure....but you may be confusing long oil and heavy oil...

Take the shark pattern (stereotypical shark).  It is on the longer side but it is not "heavy" oil volume wise.  It can definitley lend itself to to a strong piece at a surface like 1000 burning up AND take a shiny medium oil ball and have it blow straight thru the breakpoint....
GTx2

kidlost2000

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 5789
Re: Bal burning up?
« Reply #4 on: May 23, 2013, 08:56:59 AM »
If it is skidding it is likely not burning up. Bowling balls don't hook on heavy oil. The pattern has to be broken down.

The ball has three phases, skid, hook, and then roll. If the lanes are drier and you have an aggressive ball then the likely-hood of the ball bleeding off its energy is very likely.

If your on heavy oil and the ball isn't hooking and someone says the ball is on fire that doesn't mean the ball is on fire. Same for if someone says the ball is  burning up.

This is all speculation off the limited information provided. A video or seeing in person is a lot easier to dissect.
…… you can't  add a physics term to a bowling term and expect it to mean something.

Bowling 300 900

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 124
Re: Bal burning up?
« Reply #5 on: May 23, 2013, 08:59:37 AM »
Could be the ball is transitioning too early especially with the surface on the ball.  What's the layout on the ball and what are your release specs.  A bowling ball can transition to early and look like it's "burning up" especially if the pattern is some what fresh.   Your shinny balls transition to little/late and you sanded ball transitions too much/soon.    You need something in the middle of those two right now with surface adjustments or proper layout. 

What ball are you trying to use and what are your specs and ball layout specs.   The proper drilling specs is especially important if your trying to use an asymmetrical ball.

charlest

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 24526
Re: Bal burning up?
« Reply #6 on: May 23, 2013, 09:34:12 AM »
It could be any heavy oil ball and lets say the surface is at 800 or 1000. A long oil pattern like rt 66...Ball dont hook.... its burning up....something shiny...skids past break point. The question is on any ball meant for heavy that has alot of surface on it and it doesnt hook, how is it burning up when its skidding?

As Good Times said, Rt. 66 pattern is long oil but not true heavy oil (23 ml per lane).

What ball and what surface you use depend son your release/delivery specs, the nature of the coverstock + the surface on it.

Some thoughts:
* If you're speed dominant, many balls at 800 or 1000 grit can skid too far. On the other hand, as other have already speculated, if the coverstock and surface is too much (friction) for the amount of oil and the lane surface, it can appear to be skidding, while it has actually used up all of its potential  energy too early.

* If you're playing the wrong part of the lanes (RT 66 is like the Shark: outside is flat with zero room for error), an adequate ball for this oil pattern will skid too far outside.

From Kegel's web site:
"The greatest slope of conditioner on ROUTE 66 is from the 11th board to the 16th board so players should target along this route. Outside of the 11th board, the pattern is flat so there will be very little room for error. Because of the long length of the pattern, a smooth, clean exit from the thumb hole to get the ball rolling is imperative on ROUTE 66!"
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

TWOHAND834

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 4350
Re: Bal burning up?
« Reply #7 on: May 23, 2013, 11:42:38 AM »
On a long pattern, if you are skidding past the breakpoint, you are playing the wrong part of the lane anyway.  EX:  If you are on a 45 foot pattern and trying to play 7-8 breakpoint, have fun with all the 2-8-10s you are about to see, provided you even hit the headpin.  The only real way to tell if your ball is skidding too far or burning up, is you have to hit the pocket and see how the ball "hits".  If the ball is skidding too far, then the ball will still hit with some life on it.  If it is burning up, then a 15 pound ball will most likely hit the pins in the same manner a 12 pounder would. 

Another thing....is the difference between 800 and say even 2000 with polish is a pretty substantial jump.  Just adding polish to 2000 now turns the cover more into a 5000-5500 grit surface.  800 to 5000 is HUGE!!!  Thats why whenever most of us say to add some surface, most likely its just taking the underlying surface under the polish and putting the surface to that number.  EX:  If a ball is 2000 plus polish, then "adding surface" would start at 2000, but no polish.  There are bowlers that think that adding surface means to go to 500-800 grit.  In most cases, you wont have to go anything less than 1000 grit and that is if they are pretty oily.  Optimum for most conditions may be 2000-3000.  That will give the ball some teeth and yet not so much that it burns out all the energy before it gets to the backend. 
Steven Vance
Former Pro Shop Operator
Former Classic Products Assistant Manager