When in doubt, always remember, in bowling reaction, SURFACE is king.

  By all means, do change the surface. Going to a 4000, or even lower, is definitely going to smooth out some of that over/under.

  Dulling it down may mean that you have to play a slightly more open shot, but it will make it read a bit more oil without over reading the dry like it has been with the polish on it.

 Really shiny balls, especially ones with a weaker cover to begin with, give me fits with over/under. My pearl misfit was JUNK in my hand til I hit it with a scotchbrite pad, now it is pretty good on the really dry stuff.

It took nearly 20 games for my shout to break in.  It was very sensitive, and would leave 10's.  Now that it's tracked up, I can definitely count on it.

I found that by going 500/1000/3000 polish this ball found it's place in my bag! Surface needs to match YOUR style and conditions!

Thanks everybody.  I never use ball when I move inside. Way too weak to carry from an inside line. I have it at OOB which is 1500 polish. Even that hooks too much when I play out. Thinking about going all the way up to 4000 polish and see if that will work better out in the dry. I hate to sell it before trying surface change. When I bought it I was hoping for a ball that would let me play my "A"game which is playing out. Hooks way too much at 1500 so 4000 here I come

When I watch many people with these smaller cored balls that have less potential, I see many bowlers drilling these balls too weak.

Typically I go about 1/2 inch stronger than my normal pin positions on stronger cores to use these weaker cored balls on a league shot.  I like 4 3/4 to 5 1/4 on much of my strong cored balls I go down to 4 1/4 to 4 1/2 pin to pap on these weaker pieces.

I've had decent results!  Playing small swings near the 2nd arrow.  Those who drill these types of cores at 5 1/2 pin to Pap should either have big hand or lots of friction to not have over/under.  Surface can also be added as noted above, or flare increasing holes as advocated by RicoJust.

Note, I am slightly rev dominant to put this conversation in context.

Regards,

Luckylefty

When playing on wet dry, you have 2 options when it comes to dryer condition pieces.

1. Drill it weak, hit the surface with some kind of slip agent polish (Control it, etc), and stand in the dirt. Keep the break point in front of you. That used to allow me to stay on the same place as the dumpers, and I didn't see as much transition .

2. Drill it stronger, rough up the surface. Surface will depend on the bowler. My Desert Hook goes pretty straight, and I just hit it with 4000 to knock the shine off,and may knock it down to 2000 for shorter patterns. With the lower diff, it turns it into a very strong urethane roll.