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Author Topic: Spit Fire Drilling advice...  (Read 3457 times)

302efi

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Spit Fire Drilling advice...
« on: September 12, 2007, 06:58:01 PM »
I told myself that I wasnt gonna to pick up anymore Storm gear after most of my Storm & Roto gear cracking, but I couldnt pass this up.

Ball is 2-3 pin and my specs are in my profile. Not really what I'm looking for outta this ball. I know with the right drill it can be flippy, so I guess I'm looking for more of an arch reaction. Mostly shoot on a well oiled THS with clean backs.

Anyone ?
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When faced with a difficult situation, Jesus asks himself, "What would Chuck Norris do?"

Robo-Arm bowlers SUCK...
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LuckyLefty

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Re: Spit Fire Drilling advice...
« Reply #16 on: September 20, 2007, 07:45:15 AM »
Can you put a weighthole in it?...ie have some side weight.

If so...weightholes on the VAL or even closer to grip center can tame a ball down.

REgards,

Luckylefty
PS it is a powerful flippy ball when drilled sort of standard without getting the ball to flare earlier(as others suggested above) or adding weightholes to mute backend.
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302efi

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Re: Spit Fire Drilling advice...
« Reply #17 on: September 20, 2007, 07:51:04 AM »
LL...Thats whats we did after I messed with the surface. We put a hole right through the CG. Pretty much right in the center of my span.

It did calm it down a little, but it still have a very pronounced move off the dry boards.

These ball are soo strong now-a-days..lol

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Roto-Grip

When faced with a difficult situation, Jesus asks himself, "What would Chuck Norris do?"

Robo-Arm bowlers SUCK...
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Dan Belcher

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Re: Spit Fire Drilling advice...
« Reply #18 on: September 20, 2007, 08:04:45 AM »
quote:
No Dan I never said LESS length, did I ?

Length with a mild to med move is what I was going for. Something I could belly 30 to 12 or so. I wasnt looking for something (else) that rockets off the dry and hits the 7.

I didnt want it to roll up at 30ft and arch or roll out to the hole from the 5 board.
First off, you never said you wanted a tame reaction -- you just said you wanted an arc rather than a skid/snap reaction.  From your very first post in this thread:
quote:
I know with the right drill it can be flippy, so I guess I'm looking for more of an arch reaction.
By nature, less length means less angular and more of an arching reaction.


LuckyLefty said:
quote:
PS it is a powerful flippy ball when drilled sort of standard without getting the ball to flare earlier(as others suggested above) or adding weightholes to mute backend.
Exactly.  It's "rolly" compared to its sister ball, the Fired Up.  But it's still by nature got a skid/snap tendancy you have to really drill out of the ball.  Especially when you leave it polished, which just accentuates the bounce off the dry.
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302efi

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Re: Spit Fire Drilling advice...
« Reply #19 on: September 20, 2007, 08:13:24 AM »
quote:
quote:
No Dan I never said LESS length, did I ?

Length with a mild to med move is what I was going for. Something I could belly 30 to 12 or so. I wasnt looking for something (else) that rockets off the dry and hits the 7.

I didnt want it to roll up at 30ft and arch or roll out to the hole from the 5 board.
First off, you never said you wanted a tame reaction -- you just said you wanted an arc rather than a skid/snap reaction.  From your very first post in this thread:
quote:
I know with the right drill it can be flippy, so I guess I'm looking for more of an arch reaction.
By nature, less length means less angular and more of an arching reaction.



Read it again..."so I guess I'm looking for more of an arch reaction"

Not total arch, just more of it. A 90 left turn is pretty much what it does. When I took the cover down, it rolled somewhat earlier, but still had a powerful move comming out of the med. Almost moved like a dull solid resin.

When I took it up to 4000 and with it with React-a-Shine it became a over under monster, pretty much all control was gone at that finish. So what I settled on after the weight hole was 2000, then took a rag with just water and got the ball hot for a few minutes on each side.
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Roto-Grip

When faced with a difficult situation, Jesus asks himself, "What would Chuck Norris do?"

Robo-Arm bowlers SUCK...
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Dan Belcher

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Re: Spit Fire Drilling advice...
« Reply #20 on: September 20, 2007, 08:26:44 AM »
You can't just say "more of an arch" and nothing else and expect me to know you mean "lots of length, but only slightly more arch than a 90 degree left turn off the dry."  When I read "more of an arch," to me that meant you wanted the ball to roll a good bit earlier like a matte finish solid reactive, but you just wanted the pearl surface to get the ball to save up some extra energy.  It sounds to me like what you're really looking for would be a moderately strong cover with a weaker core and a fairly tame drill, which is not really what you got from the Spit Fire at all.
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302efi

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Re: Spit Fire Drilling advice...
« Reply #21 on: September 20, 2007, 08:30:18 AM »
quote:
It sounds to me like what you're really looking for would be a moderately strong cover with a weaker core and a fairly tame drill...



Exactly....Looking at a Jolt solid as we speak. I got some shop credit and can get them for cost, so this might be next.
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Roto-Grip

When faced with a difficult situation, Jesus asks himself, "What would Chuck Norris do?"

Robo-Arm bowlers SUCK...
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Dan Belcher

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Re: Spit Fire Drilling advice...
« Reply #22 on: September 20, 2007, 08:39:25 AM »
Yeah, I like the sound of the Jolt for you -- with your rev rate, it should finish plenty hard even with a tamer drilling, but be less over/under than a polished pearl.  Let us know how that one works out.
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