From what I have been lead to understand by talking to several tech reps of different companies about these balls and from using several of them discussed here, the Barbed wire cover is nicely mild, but a solid; its core is not really high RG, so one might consider placing the pin above the ring finger or the bridge in general, and, I suggest adding a bit of extra polish to give it sufficient length to look like a dry lanes ball.
A lot will also depend on, as Jeffrevs said above, how "DRY" it actually is. Some "very dry" needs plastic or pearl urethane. Some "very dry" can use a pearl resin. If you have or can generate good speed (18 mph or greater), then many balls can be "dry" lanes balls.
For "dry-ish" lanes, I prefer the Dyno-Thane Barrage. I have my pin to the right of the ring finger (a length drilling for me). I have also added a measure of extra polish to insure length. Since the base RG is 2.63 or thereabouts, one does not need to place the pin above the bridge; besides long pins are not generally available for the Barrage, not are they essential. It is a resin pearl, with a very mild cover.
Unless you have high speed or are very versatile with hand release changes, I'd be cautious about using any Sonic for true dry lanes. Although they all have high RG values for length, their cover is a little more than "mild". I don't say, "no, don't ever use it"; just be cautious. They are great for light to medium-light oil patterns.
Hope this helps.
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"We get old too fast, and too late, smart."