I would try taking it down to 400 grit to open up the "pores" so to speak, give it the old hot water treatment with some Dawn (don't bake it!!!) then take it back up to factory finish. You sound like you're about to give up on it so really, what do you have to lose.....
Directly from one manufacturers site:
1. Have the ball wet sanded to about 400-grit to open the cover's pores.
2. Fill a tub or bucket (5 gallon buckets work well) with hot tap water and about 2-3 teaspoons of Dawn dish detergent.
3. Wash the ball using a wash cloth or a scotch brite pad (burgundy or green) for a few minutes.
4. Remove the ball from the soapy water and rinse the tub (or bucket) clean and refill it with hot water (no soap).
5. Place the ball in the water and wash it clean with a clean cloth or new scotch brite pad. You will probably notice that a soapy film will appear in the water. This is residue that was trapped in the coverstock (much like the oil and dirt was).
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 until no soapy residue remains, This make 2 or 3 times to achieve, depending upon the amount of soap that was used. You don't want to use too much soap, but you need enough to cut through the oil and dirt.
7. After the soap has been completely removed from the coverstock, allow the ball to air dry at room temperature.
8. Have the ball wet sanded with 400-grit paper and then follow the steps to bring it back to its factory finish as described in our resurfacing section.
Once this procedure has been completed, make every attempt to clean the ball after each session of use.
The ONE cleaning method that we strongly oppose is "baking" (or using heat of any kind) a ball. Most of the methods that use "heat" as a cleaning method suggest that this is a way to "revive" the ball after it has lost an obvious amount of hook. For reviving a ball, we recommend checking into Ebonite's "Hook Again" system.Â
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Never argue with an
idiot....They'll drag you down to their level and beat you with
experience!