Author Topic: 1 1/8 inch pin on a jolt solid (Read 1680 times)

River700 · « **on:** August 19, 2008, 05:00:54 PM »

Hi everyone, I just bought a jolt solid off from ebay for really cheap and it has a 1 1/8 inch pin. My pap is around 5 1/2 over and 1/2 inch up. I bought this ball for the cheetah pattern as most of my other balls would flip too much, or hook to fast off the spot. I was thinking a 5 inch pin to pap under my ring, cg at 4 5/8, and possibly a flare increasing hole after throwing it a few times to see what it does. As far as the surface goes, I was thinking 2k abralon, or 1k abralon/wet sand. I bowl on older synthetics, I just bowled on the cheetah last week and from what I saw, a lot of oil upfront, but the backend was really jumpy, specially just left of the 5 board. Any other suggestions on the drill to put on this ball would be nice, btw it has been plugged once. Let me know thanks, as I will be getting it drilled up soon

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If your going to bowl...bowl for fun or go home

Edited on 8/21/2008 1:40 PM

slashrr69 · « **Reply #1 on:** August 20, 2008, 02:34:32 AM »

hey river
I see you picked up a jolt solid, unfortunately it has a small pin.. you can make it work though.. even though this is a weaker ball I think with a
5 x 4 5/8 it still might bounce to hard off the dry.. my experience on the cheetah pattern is that you want a stronger read up front then on the back.. you want a predictable but strong continuation on the back.. with you being a medium speed and rev guy I would try and lay it out like this 3 1/4 x 4 1/2 x 2 3/8 (pin buffer)..these should give you a nice readable front with a good continuous backend.. try and put the pin next to and right of your ring finger(1/2 to 1 inch)no extra hole if you can help it.. start the ball out at 4000 abby pad no water.. throw it to see how it reacts then tweek it from there..if you need more friction go to 2000 abby pad and so on (no water).. I would only wet sand it if you think it needs a little more length.. you might get a wet dry reaction with the wet sanding.. I myself would let the oil soak into the ball a little first to smooth it out before applying water.. but thats just me..lol.. slashrr69

River700 · « **Reply #2 on:** August 20, 2008, 12:41:27 PM »

Slash, thanks for your suggestion. The reason why I am trying to stay away from a strong drill like that, is that any ball that flares a lot on the this pattern at the center I bowl at over hooks. I have a storm vertigo drilled 4 1/2 pin to pap under ring and that ball is way too much ball. When I tried my too hot the other day on the cheetah it roled, but it went a little too long before it hooked, weaker coverstock. Ok, so by getting a ball that is 2 steps up from my too hot and 1 step up from my hot rod, core and coverstock are slightly stronger than the other two, and by adding some surface, it should read sooner like I was hoping and come off the spot better. Have to remember that this ball that I got with such a short pin is going to role more right off my hand, and plus what I was thinking for the drill is that the pin will land up 1 1/4 inches up from the midline which would still work. But this is what I am thinking right now.
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If your going to bowl...bowl for fun or go home

River700 · « **Reply #3 on:** August 20, 2008, 12:52:22 PM »

Slash, also I have tried a storm erazer boost, and that ball was drilled with pin next to my ring and cg straight down(2 7/8 inch pin) no hole. That ball would role, but come off the spot kind of hard and the pin was like 4 1/4 from my pap so putting the pin at 3 1/4 from my pap next to my ring on the jolt solid would make it kind of flip still, because of using all the flare potential of the ball due to where the pin is at. Also, putting the pin close to the center line under the fingers and adding some surface will make it role smoother to begin with. Because my hot rod is drilled 5 1/8 x 5 pin right under ring, cg on top of thumb and just a bit to the right and that ball with a light scuff from a green pad roles really smooth. I have seen other people use balls drilled like what I am wanting to put on my jolt and they are smooth roling.
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If your going to bowl...bowl for fun or go home

slashrr69 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 21, 2008, 12:03:22 PM »

hey river
I can hear what your saying, I was just putting all the pieces together.. you are a med/med guy with a weaker ball that is/should be rolly.. small pin(truer roll/weaker rolly ball)your layout might make the ball to wet/dry(conditional)I see it saving it energy until it gets to the dry and on the cheetah pattern with its oilier fronts and then dry dry backends(wet/dry).. I think with the layout suggested it would'nt be really flippy, I think it will be a stronger(continuous) roll off the spot.. Its hard to say..lol.. you know your game better then I.. hey just have FUN!!! let me know what you decide and after you throw it give me a shout.. Iam curious now..?? I tend to picture a layout and the should be reaction in the my balls.. then I tweek the covers to get exactly what I see/want... do they always work the way I picture them,(NO).. 95 out of a 100 do though...lol... but that is half the fun once in awhile/YES??
have a good one.. slashrr69

River700 · « **Reply #5 on:** August 21, 2008, 01:34:30 PM »

Thanks slash, I should be getting the jolt drilled up either today(thursday) or this next monday. Another thing is, that I did not have one ball with a short pin, so thats why I decided on getting the jolt with the short pin. I have an idea on what surface I am going to try, but with only two weeks before I start the winter league(on the cheetah

) I'l have to hurry up and decide on what I want to do. One of the surfaces that I have been really liking is 800 wet sand with a light coat of reacta shine on it. I did that on one of my x-factor reloadeds and that ball HOOKED on the shark, almost too much hook..hehe! But I will let you know how it goes with the jolt

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If your going to bowl...bowl for fun or go home

tommygn · « **Reply #6 on:** August 21, 2008, 01:53:20 PM »

I think a good drilling for that ball would be pin under ring, with CG on your center line. The surface you use on the ball will dictate how much the ball will read the oil. Placement of the mass bias (as well as the 6 3/4 from pin through cg on symmetrical balls) will determine breakpoint shape. Any time you get that mark on or in your ball track, or onto or past your VAL, you will be smoothing out the breakpoint. When you stack or kick that mark into the middle area(between first track ring and VAL), you are drilling the ball for more of maximum motion out of the core. The difference between putting that mark on your track and on your VAL, is that when on your track, the core is not altered as much, and will have a more gradual continuation. When you place the mark on or beyond the VAL, it is the extra hole in the ball that is altering the core shape to allow the ball to smooth out at the breakpoint, giving you hook, set, roll, generally with less flare than when placing on your ball track.

Good luck with how ever you chose to drill the ball, and hopefully success on the Cheetah pattern finds you.
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Tommy Gollick
Storm Regional/Pro Shop staff
Red Crown Pro Shop Harrisburg, PA
stormbowling.com

River700 · « **Reply #7 on:** August 21, 2008, 09:38:14 PM »

So Tommy, you are basically saying for me to do a 5 x 5 1/2 on my jolt? That is a possibility that I will look into. I am going to talk with my driller some before drilling the jolt.
Also, I measured from the pin through the cg to 6 and 3/4 inches with the drilling that I was thinking of, and the virtual mas bias landed up at 5 inches from my pap. So do you think that would still work?

I have a x-factor reloaded with the pin under my ring, cg out some with a hole just inside my pap and the rad under my thumb at 6 1/8 icnhes from my pap and that ball with a little surface has some really good continuation in oil.
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If your going to bowl...bowl for fun or go home

Edited on 8/21/2008 10:01 PM

Edited on 8/21/2008 10:13 PM

Author Topic: 1 1/8 inch pin on a jolt solid (Read 1680 times)

River700

1 1/8 inch pin on a jolt solid

slashrr69

Re: 1 1/8 inch pin on a jolt solid

River700

Re: 1 1/8 inch pin on a jolt solid

River700

Re: 1 1/8 inch pin on a jolt solid

slashrr69

Re: 1 1/8 inch pin on a jolt solid

River700

Re: 1 1/8 inch pin on a jolt solid

tommygn

Re: 1 1/8 inch pin on a jolt solid

River700

Re: 1 1/8 inch pin on a jolt solid