Author Topic: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it. (Read 6145 times)

mediumrevs15 · « **on:** September 13, 2011, 10:04:23 AM »

Well after about 25 games ive decided to try and take off the oil shine.

Since there was no track I saw no need to bring in down to 500 and work it back up. I instead did 2000 and 4000 abralon with water on the haus machine.

This gave the ball a shine where the nano came 4000 dull oob.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Cobalt Bomb · « **Reply #1 on:** September 13, 2011, 06:17:05 PM »

The factory goes right from 500 to 4000. This started with the VG. If you step it down, the ball surface will be much smoother than OOB. I believe the exact refinish directions are on Storm's website.

sabman · « **Reply #2 on:** September 13, 2011, 06:19:07 PM »

Got this from Storm's site.

Resurface to the original factory finish using a ball spinner.
1. 500-grit Abralon® - Sand for 30 seconds on all four sides with firm pressure.
2. 2000-grit Abralon® - Sand for 10 seconds on all four sides with light pressure.
3. 4000-grit Abralon® - Sand for 5 seconds on all four sides with light pressure

Edited by sabman on 9/13/2011 at 6:18 PM

tommygn · « **Reply #3 on:** September 14, 2011, 06:21:58 AM »

Spinners and Haus machines can be the absolute enemy to a cover stock finish. They are great for polishing, and resurfacing, but just touching up a ball is best done by hand. You can control the motion so much easier.

The other issue may be the usage of the abralon pads. They change very quickly. Use a permanent marker and just place a little line on it, so you know how many times it has been used.

To just touch up the surface, use water and a NEW 4000 abralon pad, by hand and hit all 4 sides.

To bring it back to factory, hit it with a new 500 on all 4 sides, followed by a new 4000 on all four sides using the slow speed of a spinner. After it comes off the spinner, touch the cover again with the 4000 by hand.

Todays bowling balls have so many peaks and valleys. When using a spinner, it is real easy to be counter productive, and actually sand the RA value down. Using pads by hand offer more control, and will glide over the tops of, and get down in to the valleys a bit easier, allowing enhancement of the RA, rather than cutting them down.

Tommy Gollick
Storm Regional/Pro Shop staff
Red Crown Pro Shop Harrisburg, PA
stormbowling.com

riggs · « **Reply #4 on:** September 15, 2011, 07:02:16 AM »

Well said ... especially the last paragraph!!!

The No. 1 source for bowling news, analysis and opinion is my blog, The 11th Frame, which is here:
http://host.madison.com/sports/recreation/bowling/

mediumrevs15 · « **Reply #5 on:** September 15, 2011, 06:31:37 PM »

Thanks everyone

ccrider · « **Reply #6 on:** September 18, 2011, 09:05:11 AM »

Man, and all of this time I thought the grit of the pad is what caused and defined the peaks and valleys.

If doing it by hand is the way to go, how do the ball manufactures do it with their haus machines???

Those that can do. Those that can't complain. Pimpin ain't easy, but it's mandatory.

Most things we like, we don't need. Most things we need, we don't like. Don't confuse your likes with your needs.

tommygn · « **Reply #7 on:** September 19, 2011, 05:58:39 AM »

It is different when you are starting with a very dull fresh cut ball. The process is then worked up starting with like 80 grit (don't quote me on the exact grit) to get the ball cut down to proper size and shape. If you feel like using a 120 grit for your starting base EVERY time you resurface a ball, good luck knocking 10 pins down with your duck pin ball, LOL.

ccrider wrote on 9/18/2011 9:05 AM:Man, and all of this time I thought the grit of the pad is what caused and defined the peaks and valleys.

If doing it by hand is the way to go, how do the ball manufactures do it with their haus machines???

Those that can do. Those that can't complain. Pimpin ain't easy, but it's mandatory.

Most things we like, we don't need. Most things we need, we don't like. Don't confuse your likes with your needs.

Tommy Gollick
Storm Regional/Pro Shop staff
Red Crown Pro Shop Harrisburg, PA
stormbowling.com

Edited by tommygn on 9/19/2011 at 5:59 AM

ccrider · « **Reply #8 on:** September 19, 2011, 06:11:37 AM »

I have had good results with 500/4000 on a haus (2nd gen).

Those that can do. Those that can't complain. Pimpin ain't easy, but it's mandatory.

Most things we like, we don't need. Most things we need, we don't like. Don't confuse your likes with your needs.

tommygn · « **Reply #9 on:** September 19, 2011, 06:15:36 AM »

ccrider,

Great for you! glad that's working out for you.

Tommy Gollick
Storm Regional/Pro Shop staff
Red Crown Pro Shop Harrisburg, PA
stormbowling.com

ccrider · « **Reply #10 on:** September 19, 2011, 08:25:04 AM »

Tommy,

Both the VG and the Nano are go to balls for me. They take to cover changes well and I just seem to match up with the balls. Shot 685 last night 258, 171, 256 (I have decided it was brain fart the second game). Shot 725 last week, using the VG.

My friend has a Storm Surface Factory. It is advertised to get balls back to OOB. What is the sanding process that it uses?

Those that can do. Those that can't complain. Pimpin ain't easy, but it's mandatory.

Most things we like, we don't need. Most things we need, we don't like. Don't confuse your likes with your needs.

tommygn · « **Reply #11 on:** September 19, 2011, 10:31:10 AM »

ccrider,

That's great that you have access to a Storm Surface Factory machine! There are a couple of really good videos on the Storm website that talk about the machines.

Keep at it, 800 is right around the corner for you.

Tommy Gollick
Storm Regional/Pro Shop staff
Red Crown Pro Shop Harrisburg, PA
stormbowling.com

milorafferty · « **Reply #12 on:** September 19, 2011, 10:35:18 AM »

When refinishing by hand, do you use a circular motion, back and forth or ?? Or is any pattern sufficient as long as you get all four sides?

tommygn wrote on 9/14/2011 6:21 AM:Spinners and Haus machines can be the absolute enemy to a cover stock finish. They are great for polishing, and resurfacing, but just touching up a ball is best done by hand. You can control the motion so much easier.

The other issue may be the usage of the abralon pads. They change very quickly. Use a permanent marker and just place a little line on it, so you know how many times it has been used.

To just touch up the surface, use water and a NEW 4000 abralon pad, by hand and hit all 4 sides.

To bring it back to factory, hit it with a new 500 on all 4 sides, followed by a new 4000 on all four sides using the slow speed of a spinner. After it comes off the spinner, touch the cover again with the 4000 by hand.

Todays bowling balls have so many peaks and valleys. When using a spinner, it is real easy to be counter productive, and actually sand the RA value down. Using pads by hand offer more control, and will glide over the tops of, and get down in to the valleys a bit easier, allowing enhancement of the RA, rather than cutting them down.

Tommy Gollick
Storm Regional/Pro Shop staff
Red Crown Pro Shop Harrisburg, PA
stormbowling.com

tommygn · « **Reply #13 on:** September 19, 2011, 11:03:02 AM »

Great question!
Circular motions. Again though, it is just for touching up the surface. There is no real need to go through the entire process of using 500 and 4000 with a machine, every time you just want to "take the lane shine" off of the ball. You would be just cutting the surface more than really needs to be done, and shortening the life span of your bowling ball. Also, make sure you use water as well, it will help your abralon pad last longer.Afterward, a bit of ball cleaner to get any remaining left over sanding residue from the pores of the ball.

Storm recommends touching up the surface about every 20 games, and a resurface about every 60 games to keep your bowling ball at peak performance.

milorafferty wrote on 9/19/2011 10:35 AM:
When refinishing by hand, do you use a circular motion, back and forth or ?? Or is any pattern sufficient as long as you get all four sides?

tommygn wrote on 9/14/2011 6:21 AM:
Spinners and Haus machines can be the absolute enemy to a cover stock finish. They are great for polishing, and resurfacing, but just touching up a ball is best done by hand. You can control the motion so much easier.

The other issue may be the usage of the abralon pads. They change very quickly. Use a permanent marker and just place a little line on it, so you know how many times it has been used.

To just touch up the surface, use water and a NEW 4000 abralon pad, by hand and hit all 4 sides.

To bring it back to factory, hit it with a new 500 on all 4 sides, followed by a new 4000 on all four sides using the slow speed of a spinner. After it comes off the spinner, touch the cover again with the 4000 by hand.

Todays bowling balls have so many peaks and valleys. When using a spinner, it is real easy to be counter productive, and actually sand the RA value down. Using pads by hand offer more control, and will glide over the tops of, and get down in to the valleys a bit easier, allowing enhancement of the RA, rather than cutting them down.

Tommy Gollick
Storm Regional/Pro Shop staff
Red Crown Pro Shop Harrisburg, PA
stormbowling.com

Tommy Gollick
Storm Regional/Pro Shop staff
Red Crown Pro Shop Harrisburg, PA
stormbowling.com

milorafferty · « **Reply #14 on:** September 19, 2011, 11:07:11 AM »

Thanks for the prompt answer! And yes, I was just asking about a "touch up", not a complete resurface.

tommygn wrote on 9/19/2011 11:03 AM:Great question!
Circular motions. Again though, it is just for touching up the surface. There is no real need to go through the entire process of using 500 and 4000 with a machine, every time you just want to "take the lane shine" off of the ball. You would be just cutting the surface more than really needs to be done, and shortening the life span of your bowling ball. Also, make sure you use water as well, it will help your abralon pad last longer.Afterward, a bit of ball cleaner to get any remaining left over sanding residue from the pores of the ball.

Storm recommends touching up the surface about every 20 games, and a resurface about every 60 games to keep your bowling ball at peak performance.

milorafferty wrote on 9/19/2011 10:35 AM:
When refinishing by hand, do you use a circular motion, back and forth or ?? Or is any pattern sufficient as long as you get all four sides?

Author Topic: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it. (Read 6145 times)

mediumrevs15

Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it.

Cobalt Bomb

Re: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it.

sabman

Re: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it.

tommygn

Re: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it.

riggs

Re: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it.

mediumrevs15

Re: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it.

ccrider

Re: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it.

tommygn

Re: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it.

ccrider

Re: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it.

tommygn

Re: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it.

ccrider

Re: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it.

tommygn

Re: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it.

milorafferty

Re: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it.

tommygn

Re: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it.

milorafferty

Re: Getting the nano back to box finish or close to it.