Author Topic: Natural Pearl Question (Read 2883 times)

BBU · « **on:** February 07, 2012, 05:10:19 PM »

So I picked up a Natty Pearl recently. I mainly bought it for the 6 lane old dry houses that we shoot at for tournaments. However, I'm looking to use it on a THS this weekend. I have played with it a bit and need to get a few more boards out of it. Its coming up a bit lame. Normally I would scuff up a resin ball, but would you recommend a scuff pad for a urethane ball or maybe a few minutes in the waxer to get some more back end out of it? Or maybe a better idea?

Thanks

900 Global
www.900Global.com

jensm · « **Reply #1 on:** February 08, 2012, 02:25:51 AM »

It depends on which part of the lane you want more hook. Scuff it and it will start reading the lane earlier. Polish it and it may pick up further down. It's urethane, which normally is best suited for short patterns where a controlled ball reaction is preferred. I think the best bet for more hook in the backend on light THS is a mild reactive ball like the Slingshot.

Regards,

jensm

dizzyfugu · « **Reply #2 on:** February 08, 2012, 03:46:28 AM »

It is urethane, and therefore non-porous and hard. If you want more overall hook, do not only "scuff" it, but rather sand it to a matte finish. Any additional traction comes from this mechanical surface grip - and you will rather see a smooth overall hook than length and back end. That's what the ball was designed for.

I hardly doubt that polish (and wax even more) does anything positive - I'd rather expect the ball to become pretty vulnerable to carrydown (even created on its own, due to the non-porous coverstock).

DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
2010/11 Benrather BC Club Champion
Confused by bowling? Check out BR.com's vault of wisdom: the unofficial FAQ section

Cobalt Bomb · « **Reply #3 on:** February 08, 2012, 03:47:53 AM »

I have found that getting the right surface is critical with the urethanes today, even moreso than reactives. I would suggest bringing the abralon pads with you, and go up step by step as necessary. You certainly don't want it to lose all the energy in the fronts, yet it needs some surface to work. Sometimes even the final sanding direction can make the difference. If the ball is burning up in the fronts, then smoothing the surface will help. I do not suggest polishing that ball, it does not increase the backend reaction with urethane.

dizzyfugu · « **Reply #4 on:** February 08, 2012, 04:19:11 AM »

It is not today, it has always been. We have been spoiled by the traction potential of reactive coverstocks - with the consequence that we take it for granted. Urethane "plays" much different from modern stuff, offers less room for error, and while a surface lasts much longer due to the material's hardness, this tuning is really an important part in a urethane ball's reaction.

DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
2010/11 Benrather BC Club Champion
Confused by bowling? Check out BR.com's vault of wisdom: the unofficial FAQ section

BBU · « **Reply #5 on:** February 08, 2012, 04:58:03 AM »

First of all, I dont need a Slingshot. I bought this ball for this purpose. I am a high rev bowler and need a ball I crank on. This is that ball.

I get the ball through the heads fine, but its that last foot or so where I need that extra traction.

900 Global
www.900Global.com

Nails · « **Reply #6 on:** February 08, 2012, 06:06:57 AM »

If you bought a urethane ball, pearl or not, looking for a little extra pop in the last few feet, you indeed did buy the wrong ball. Save the urethane for your old dry house and use something more appropriate when you want some flip on the back.

Telling it like it is.

spmcgivern · « **Reply #7 on:** February 08, 2012, 06:46:16 AM »

I agree with Nails on this one. What a lot of people today don't realize is you have to play the lanes differently with urethane than with reactive. You almost have to try and finish a bit high in the pocket, trying to leave a 4-pin (righty). You aren't going to get the last bit of finish you get from everything else, even with high revs.

You also have to close your angles a lot more and play as straight down the lane as possible. The ball doesn't have a great recovery ability. Try to finish higher in the pocket and see what you get. If that doesn't work, don't kill yourself over it and get a ball better suited for your THS.

I am not a pro-bowler, but I do play one on BallReviews.com

charlest · « **Reply #8 on:** February 08, 2012, 08:49:56 AM »

BBU,

I have to agree with Nails, FWIW.

Remember urethanes do not act like resins with respect to the changes you get when sanding and polishing.

With urethane, the rougher the surface, the earlier it will hook and the more it will hook.

Sanding it finer and finer, gets more length and less hook and requires more dry, therefore handling less oil..

Polishing it gets you more length, handles less oil (you have to start more into the dry) and LESS BACKEND.

Good luck with it. It should work with the right surface and playing the right line. You should also leave a lot less splits.

Nails wrote on 2/8/2012 7:06 AM:If you bought a urethane ball, pearl or not, looking for a little extra pop in the last few feet, you indeed did buy the wrong ball. Save the urethane for your old dry house and use something more appropriate when you want some flip on the back.

Telling it like it is.

"None are so blind as those who will not see."

BowlingChat.net

BBU · « **Reply #9 on:** February 08, 2012, 03:34:33 PM »

I'm not swinging the ball at all. I'm actually pointing the ball to the pocket. It's dead like a turd when it hits. It's almost as if one more revolution would carry out the flat ten that I'm leaving.

900 Global
www.900Global.com

charlest · « **Reply #10 on:** February 08, 2012, 03:44:53 PM »

Have you tried some slight angles?

Maybe 1 board with feet and 2 further outside with eyes/target. Urethane adjustments are much less, many fewer boards than resin.

But even urethane, especially with a lot of revs, need to skid some on some oil (or at least less dry).

BBU wrote on 2/8/2012 4:34 PM: I'm not swinging the ball at all. I'm actually pointing the ball to the pocket. It's dead like a turd when it hits. It's almost as if one more revolution would carry out the flat ten that I'm leaving.

900 Global
www.900Global.com

"None are so blind as those who will not see."

BowlingChat.net

ToiletLogCore · « **Reply #11 on:** February 08, 2012, 04:01:55 PM »

The Truth? It's so easy, I can't believe you haven't figured it out.

If it just needs one more revolution, then just hit it harder. So simple...

BBU wrote on 2/8/2012 4:34 PM:I'm not swinging the ball at all. I'm actually pointing the ball to the pocket. It's dead like a turd when it hits. It's almost as if one more revolution would carry out the flat ten that I'm leaving.

900 Global
www.900Global.com

You've just been handed a little TLC

tdub36tjt · « **Reply #12 on:** February 08, 2012, 05:42:28 PM »

A properly place weight hole could solve the issue as well....

charlest · « **Reply #13 on:** February 08, 2012, 06:00:39 PM »

not sure if that. After all, this is not a resin. It doesn't save up energy for the backend, like resins do.

That flare will not wind up at the backend. Urethanes that flare now, hook now. They don't flare later.

tdub36tjt wrote on 2/8/2012 6:42 PM:A properly place weight hole could solve the issue as well....

"None are so blind as those who will not see."

BowlingChat.net

BBU · « **Reply #14 on:** February 08, 2012, 09:24:34 PM »

LOL to Toilet....Ive got Robert Smith revs. If I put any more on it, I would literally snap my wrist off.

The ball does not have a weight hole. I have been making minor adjustments. Getting to the pocket is no problem. Its the carry. I will just scuff the ball and see what happens off the dry.

900 Global
www.900Global.com

Author Topic: Natural Pearl Question (Read 2883 times)

BBU

Natural Pearl Question

jensm

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dizzyfugu

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Cobalt Bomb

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dizzyfugu

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BBU

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Nails

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spmcgivern

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charlest

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BBU

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charlest

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ToiletLogCore

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tdub36tjt

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charlest

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BBU

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