Author Topic: Utah brand polished covers (Read 2966 times)

Raven829 · « **on:** January 14, 2009, 01:08:51 PM »

I have had quite a few pieces from Utah that came with a polished cover. The ones I can think of are the Rapid Fire, Cell Pearl, Horizon, Mystic, Rapid Fire Pearl, HyRoad, and Gravity Shift. I did not alter the cover on all of these, but some I did and others were altered by the pro shop after a plug job. IMO, I have always found them to be impossible to get back to a good reacting polished piece after altering the cover. By far the most notable of the bunch was my Gravity Shift.

I got it used with 1 game on it. The shop plugged it for me, cut the plug in a Haus Machine, and polished it back up. Since I didn't throw it at OOB, I didn't know what to expect. I ended up with a ball that wanted to turn the corner but didn't. I tried various surfaces both dull and with various polishes with poor results. I had Hank Boomershine personally look at it and he suggested a new place for the x-hole (it had one but I had it plugged before meeting Hank). This helped somewhat, but I still wasn't happy with it.

It sat in my basement for 3 months until last weekend. I decided to try some of Storm's polish (reacta shine) to try and salvage it. I got the bottle from Buddies and followed Storm's recommendation of 500, 1000, and the reacta shine. I tried the ball out and it was like a totally different piece. Strong midlane that actually turned the corner very well. It was how I expected it to be. I used it in tandem with a Rapid Fire on Viper the other night to shoot my highest ever PBAX series. Then tonight I used it on a THS league for a 797. /figjam

I suppose it's possible that the other polishes out there just don't work as well on these balls as the stuff that's made for them. I haven't tried everything, but I did try Ebonite's FF polish, Beans, Snake Oil, and Black Magic all with different underlying grits with poor results. I'm excited to try it out now on my other stuff that I had written off.

It's worth noting that other brand balls that I have used haven't been this sensitive. I've used the above named polishes on those pieces with good results. Coverstock prep is hit or miss as it is. Not everything will work due to all the variables. I just hadn't found ANYTHING until now that worked on Utah balls. I had read a lot of posts about the Gravity specifically being hard to bring back to box. Maybe this will help someone out there.

Don
--------------------
"You cannot change the stripes of a leopard."
~Emmitt Smith

charlest · « **Reply #16 on:** January 15, 2009, 06:17:23 PM »

quote:
At one point we had this info in the boxes, but we have found out that most people just threw this info away... You can always contact our technical support team with any questions on getting a ball back to OOB surface.

Here is how we suggest resurfacing a Storm reactive bowling ball to achieve OOB reaction.

Resurfacing: Following the steps below will take the ball back to â€œout of the boxâ€ condition. Items needed: 220, 320, 400 and 600 grits of wet/dry sandpaper, Storm Step #2 Polish, a ball spinner and water. All sanding should be done on four sides of the ball. Side one- center of grip up, flip the ball 180 degrees for side two, turn 90 degrees for side three and flip another 180 degrees for side four.

1. Using the 220-grit sandpaper, sand the ball for 15 seconds each side.
2. Using the 320-grit sandpaper, sand the ball for 15 seconds each side.
3. Using the 400-grit sandpaper, sand the ball for 25 seconds each side.
4. Using the 600-grit sandpaper, sand the ball for 30 seconds each side.
5. Use Storm Step #2 Polish on two sides of the ball for 30 seconds each side.

Stormâ„¢ suggests using step #4 and #5 from above, every 30-50 games. This will keep the surface of the ball more constant, resulting in longer longevity and a more consistent reaction.

If you have a Storm Surface Factory Pro Machine

1. Sand with 500-grit Abralon Pad for 30 seconds
2. Sand with 1000-grit Abralon Pad for 15 seconds
3. Polish with Storm Step #2 on two sides for 30 seconds on each side.

***All of these times can vary due to ball spinner speeds and different amounts of pressure used with the sanding and polishes.***
--------------------
Bowl up a STORM!!!!!

Storm Tech Dept
tech@stormbowling.com

Storm Tech,

Is that 400 US grit and 600 US grit wet/dry sandpaper OR
P400 and P600 FEPA grit wet/dry sandpaper?

There's a big difference between them.
Most wet/dry sandpaper these days is graded P400 and P600 grit.

--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Raven829 · « **Reply #17 on:** January 15, 2009, 07:25:44 PM »

quote:

Is that 400 US grit and 600 US grit wet/dry sandpaper OR
P400 and P600 FEPA grit wet/dry sandpaper?

There's a big difference between them.
Most wet/dry sandpaper these days is graded P400 and P600 grit.

I hope StormTech chimes back in (thanks for the great info). I think that the 400 and 600 listed would be the US grits because otherwise one would essentially be going backwards with the process, but it's always good to know. I have no problems as of yet getting the US 400 and 600 papers, but haven't found any 800 in a long time that wasn't P rated.

Don
--------------------
"You cannot change the stripes of a leopard."
~Emmitt Smith

Brickguy221 · « **Reply #18 on:** January 15, 2009, 07:44:47 PM »

Back when I had a Storm Triple X, I had good success sanding to 800 grit with a Gray Scotchbrite Pad and polishing with 3M Finesse-It II.
--------------------
"Whenever I feel the urge to exercise I lie down until the feeling passes away."

Brick

StormTechDept · « **Reply #19 on:** January 15, 2009, 08:09:12 PM »

quote:

Storm Tech,
Is that 400 US grit and 600 US grit wet/dry sandpaper OR
P400 and P600 FEPA grit wet/dry sandpaper?
There's a big difference between them.
Most wet/dry sandpaper these days is graded P400 and P600 grit.

Sorry about that... The sandpaper in our directions is actually based upon the the US or CAMI grit... So the 600 grit sandpaper we suggest using is a little smoother than the 1000 grit Abralon...
To be honest, it's been so long since i've bought wet/dry paper in the store, I didn't realize most of the US sandpaper had finally made the switch to FEPA grading. I've been hooked on Abralon ever since it became a viable option in the industry.
Thanks for bringing that to my attention, might have to make some changes to our resurfacing sheets.

Thanks

--------------------
Bowl up a STORM!!!!!

Storm Tech Dept
tech@stormbowling.com

charlest · « **Reply #20 on:** January 15, 2009, 08:42:17 PM »

quote:
quote:

Is that 400 US grit and 600 US grit wet/dry sandpaper OR
P400 and P600 FEPA grit wet/dry sandpaper?

There's a big difference between them.
Most wet/dry sandpaper these days is graded P400 and P600 grit.

I hope StormTech chimes back in (thanks for the great info). I think that the 400 and 600 listed would be the US grits because otherwise one would essentially be going backwards with the process, but it's always good to know. I have no problems as of yet getting the US 400 and 600 papers, but haven't found any 800 in a long time that wasn't P rated.

Don
--------------------
"You cannot change the stripes of a leopard."
~Emmitt Smith

I assumed it was 400 & 600 US grit level as Storm Tech confirms. Otherwise, that process wouldn't make much sense.

Don,

Your P800 is actually a rougher grit level than 600 US grit. Just keep the FEPA and US grit levels in mind and you'll be fine.

600 grit US + an abrasive polish is a good way to achieve many company's "1500 grit polished" level of many pearls. 1000 grit (2000 Abralon) + a non-abrasive (like Valentino's Snake Oil) is a good way to get similar results.

From what I have learned, many company's "1500 grit polished" gets much more length and needs much more dry than if we at home used the same/simialr process to get that "shine". You may have liked it but many people, myself included, often get a better reaction (to our personal point of view) with slightly more roughness under the polish. So 600 grit US plus Snake Oil or similar non-abrasive polish gives us a smoother look than the stock.

Tahnk you, Storm Tech for the clarification.
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Author Topic: Utah brand polished covers (Read 2966 times)

Raven829

Utah brand polished covers

charlest

Re: Utah brand polished covers

Raven829

Re: Utah brand polished covers

Brickguy221

Re: Utah brand polished covers

StormTechDept

Re: Utah brand polished covers

charlest

Re: Utah brand polished covers