Author Topic: Controlling dry midlane (Read 5200 times)

dw23 · « **on:** June 05, 2006, 04:37:47 AM »

Hi Everyone,

I wanted to get everyones opinion on controlling dry midlanes. I know how to change hand positions to tame my ball reaction but do you use particle or reactive and do you use pearl or solid.

Thanks everyone,
DW

The SuperHitMan · « **Reply #1 on:** June 05, 2006, 01:00:14 PM »

Pearl my friend....its quite forgiving
--------------------
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K.C.: Thats not my style.

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Opponent:

K.C.: Lets fight

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Opponent:

WTF

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LuckyLefty · « **Reply #2 on:** June 05, 2006, 01:41:10 PM »

Interesting!

Like Rotofan says...this is how many of our bowlers are solving this problem that is constant in my home house!

(Most look like Crap) the condition makes it so.

My observation...many use highly polished or waxed solid...seem to be smoother.
The pearls both pearl particles and pearl reactives bounce extremely hard on these harsh dry borders!

Or highly polished or waxed light load solid particles.

Curious.

REgards,

Luckylefty
--------------------
Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..

dw23 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 07, 2006, 02:17:22 AM »

I drilled a Slash 5 x 4 with the pin above the ring finger with a coat of magic shine. Hopefully that will give me an alternate to my Desert Heat with a coat of wax.

dizzyfugu · « **Reply #4 on:** June 07, 2006, 05:04:53 AM »

...pearl for me, too. When the shot is oily, I like my Eraser Particle pearl for a direct shot. It has soft particles, and with some oil up, it still goes quite long and has good control at the break point.

Another ball for shorter patterns, when even the EPP burns up, is my Sahara - much to my surprise. Probably due to the strong core this ball goes long and makes a very consistent break point movement, easy to control and handle with speed and hand adjustments.
--------------------

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tenpinspro · « **Reply #5 on:** June 07, 2006, 01:15:32 PM »

Hey DW, having the same problem right now in summer league as well. So far I've tried a pin over mid Solution (solid resin) on the oil line, just redrilled my Angular Monday (1x1.5, particle) to pin past axis but this is very touchy. It causes the flare to return very close to the thumb. Both were okay but if I missed the line and hit the dry a touch early, it hooked too hard. I'm redrillng a Slash with pin over mid (6x4.75) high gloss, this ball actually goes very long when polished and then I still have my Solution EX to try to see how it fairs on the dry I have. I'll keep you posted if interested.....
--------------------
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dw23 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 07, 2006, 02:52:08 PM »

Thanks everyone for your comments.

tenspinpro: I look forward to hearing your comments.

I made a mistake on the drill pattern of the Slash I just drilled. It's drilled 5x5.5 with the pin over the ring finger. I polished it so I hope this helps control the mid-lane.

Thanks,
DW

tenpinspro · « **Reply #7 on:** June 19, 2006, 11:34:24 AM »

quote:
tenspinpro: I look forward to hearing your comments.

DW, tried the angular out for a bit but when the shot breaks down, it's just TOO dry for even this layout. I need appoximately 1-1.5 mph to match up just to my stroker hit to get the ball downlane. If I don't hold speed, it's gone...dead left. If I ride the line with anything, guaranteed corner....oh well, back to the drawing board.

I still have to try out the Slash, I'm also bringing my Flaming "T", Unleashed(OOB) and Robo this week to see if I can play in the oil with either one of those 2.

Seem to be experiencing the same problems LaneBed had last year...
--------------------
Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Track Intl. - Amateur/Pro Shop Staff
Vise Inserts Staff
www.Trackbowling.com
www.startabowlingrevolution.com

See profile for Track Ball videos

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dw23 · « **Reply #8 on:** June 19, 2006, 12:39:29 PM »

Thanks for the info,

It's funny but he only ball that I have had any success with has been the old Hex Darkside. I hit it with a heavy coat of magic shine and it still checked a little early. I put it in a luster king for 5 minuets and that seems to have done the trick. I will put it to the test this weekend at a house that is notorious for dry midlane and back end.

Thanks again,
DW

Edited on 6/19/2006 12:36 PM

chitown · « **Reply #9 on:** June 19, 2006, 11:50:58 PM »

I'm surprised that the desert heat doesn't work on this condition for you guys. Basically if this ball doesn't work then urathane seems to be the only choice.

dw23 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 20, 2006, 01:58:38 AM »

I think the Desert Heat has not worked because the pearl cover is a little too jumpy for me off the dry. If you change speeds you can shoot it through the break. We still have head oil it's just the Midlane that had dried up.

Thanks,
DW

Edited on 6/20/2006 1:56 AM

chitown · « **Reply #11 on:** June 21, 2006, 09:46:14 AM »

quote:
I think the Desert Heat has not worked because the pearl cover is a little too jumpy for me off the dry. If you change speeds you can shoot it through the break. We still have head oil it's just the Midlane that had dried up.

Thanks,
DW

Edited on 6/20/2006 1:56 AM

How is yours drilled? My desert heat is drilled with the pin above the bridge 5.5" from pap and the cg kicked right to 1oz os side and no balance hole. Mine acts like a spare ball but with a little bit better hit. If there's any oil mine just slides forever.

dw23 · « **Reply #12 on:** June 21, 2006, 02:14:35 PM »

That's kind of my point Chitown. My Desert Heat is sensitive to friction and oil. If there is a lot of friction it will hook a lot for me but if there's any oil it becomes very erratic. For that reason I would rather not use it until the pattern dries evenly.

Thanks,
DW

chitown · « **Reply #13 on:** June 23, 2006, 12:02:28 AM »

quote:
That's kind of my point Chitown. My Desert Heat is sensitive to friction and oil. If there is a lot of friction it will hook a lot for me but if there's any oil it becomes very erratic. For that reason I would rather not use it until the pattern dries evenly.

Thanks,
DW

DW your right about this point. My DH does the same thing. If the lanes are really dry through out then this ball reacts very well. I can get it to hook good but not over react. Just a smooth arc to the pocket. Now if there is any oil out there it just slides. Now if I were to have drilled it strong I may have had better results when it hit some oil but who knows.

I used to have another DH and had it drilled label leverage. Great reaction but at the time was too much for what I wanted it for.

I'm thinking of dulling it down and polishing it with a matte polish. I figure this will allow it to react a little better with spotty light oil but still be smooth and controllable.

I really think this is the ball for these patterns. I feel some cover work will get the ball to where it needs to be for this pattern.

dw23 · « **Reply #14 on:** June 23, 2006, 01:53:14 AM »

Chitown, You may be right. If you do try the new cover prep let me know how it works out. I'm going to stick with my Darkside for a while to see if it works.

Thanks,
DW

Author Topic: Controlling dry midlane (Read 5200 times)

dw23

Controlling dry midlane

The SuperHitMan

Re: Controlling dry midlane

LuckyLefty

Re: Controlling dry midlane

dw23

Re: Controlling dry midlane

dizzyfugu

Re: Controlling dry midlane

tenpinspro

Re: Controlling dry midlane

dw23

Re: Controlling dry midlane

tenpinspro

Re: Controlling dry midlane

dw23

Re: Controlling dry midlane

chitown

Re: Controlling dry midlane

dw23

Re: Controlling dry midlane

chitown

Re: Controlling dry midlane

dw23

Re: Controlling dry midlane

chitown

Re: Controlling dry midlane

dw23

Re: Controlling dry midlane