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Equipment Boards => Track => Topic started by: dw23 on June 05, 2006, 04:37:47 AM
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Hi Everyone,
I wanted to get everyones opinion on controlling dry midlanes. I know how to change hand positions to tame my ball reaction but do you use particle or reactive and do you use pearl or solid.
Thanks everyone,
DW
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Pearl my friend....its quite forgiving
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Interesting!
Like Rotofan says...this is how many of our bowlers are solving this problem that is constant in my home house!
(Most look like Crap) the condition makes it so.
My observation...many use highly polished or waxed solid...seem to be smoother.
The pearls both pearl particles and pearl reactives bounce extremely hard on these harsh dry borders!
Or highly polished or waxed light load solid particles.
Curious.
REgards,
Luckylefty
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Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..
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I drilled a Slash 5 x 4 with the pin above the ring finger with a coat of magic shine. Hopefully that will give me an alternate to my Desert Heat with a coat of wax.
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...pearl for me, too. When the shot is oily, I like my Eraser Particle pearl for a direct shot. It has soft particles, and with some oil up, it still goes quite long and has good control at the break point.
Another ball for shorter patterns, when even the EPP burns up, is my Sahara - much to my surprise. Probably due to the strong core this ball goes long and makes a very consistent break point movement, easy to control and handle with speed and hand adjustments.
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DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
UPDATED, NEW DESIGN & ENGLISH --- Team "X" website & more about me: http://web.mac.com/timlinked/iWeb/X/Thomas.html
"All that we see or seem, is but a dream within a dream..." - Edgar Allen Poe
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Hey DW, having the same problem right now in summer league as well. So far I've tried a pin over mid Solution (solid resin) on the oil line, just redrilled my Angular Monday (1x1.5, particle) to pin past axis but this is very touchy. It causes the flare to return very close to the thumb. Both were okay but if I missed the line and hit the dry a touch early, it hooked too hard. I'm redrillng a Slash with pin over mid (6x4.75) high gloss, this ball actually goes very long when polished and then I still have my Solution EX to try to see how it fairs on the dry I have. I'll keep you posted if interested.....
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Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Track Intl. - Amateur/Pro Shop Staff
Vise Inserts Staff
www.Trackbowling.com
www.startabowlingrevolution.com
See profile for Track Ball videos
*El Presidente of the Track Revolution
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Thanks everyone for your comments.
tenspinpro: I look forward to hearing your comments.
I made a mistake on the drill pattern of the Slash I just drilled. It's drilled 5x5.5 with the pin over the ring finger. I polished it so I hope this helps control the mid-lane.
Thanks,
DW
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quote:
tenspinpro: I look forward to hearing your comments.
DW, tried the angular out for a bit but when the shot breaks down, it's just TOO dry for even this layout. I need appoximately 1-1.5 mph to match up just to my stroker hit to get the ball downlane. If I don't hold speed, it's gone...dead left. If I ride the line with anything, guaranteed corner....oh well, back to the drawing board.
I still have to try out the Slash, I'm also bringing my Flaming "T", Unleashed(OOB) and Robo this week to see if I can play in the oil with either one of those 2.
Seem to be experiencing the same problems LaneBed had last year...
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Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Track Intl. - Amateur/Pro Shop Staff
Vise Inserts Staff
www.Trackbowling.com
www.startabowlingrevolution.com
See profile for Track Ball videos
*El Presidente of the Track Legion
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Thanks for the info,
It's funny but he only ball that I have had any success with has been the old Hex Darkside. I hit it with a heavy coat of magic shine and it still checked a little early. I put it in a luster king for 5 minuets and that seems to have done the trick. I will put it to the test this weekend at a house that is notorious for dry midlane and back end.
Thanks again,
DW
Edited on 6/19/2006 12:36 PM
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I'm surprised that the desert heat doesn't work on this condition for you guys. Basically if this ball doesn't work then urathane seems to be the only choice.
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I think the Desert Heat has not worked because the pearl cover is a little too jumpy for me off the dry. If you change speeds you can shoot it through the break. We still have head oil it's just the Midlane that had dried up.
Thanks,
DW
Edited on 6/20/2006 1:56 AM
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quote:
I think the Desert Heat has not worked because the pearl cover is a little too jumpy for me off the dry. If you change speeds you can shoot it through the break. We still have head oil it's just the Midlane that had dried up.
Thanks,
DW
Edited on 6/20/2006 1:56 AM
How is yours drilled? My desert heat is drilled with the pin above the bridge 5.5" from pap and the cg kicked right to 1oz os side and no balance hole. Mine acts like a spare ball but with a little bit better hit. If there's any oil mine just slides forever.
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That's kind of my point Chitown. My Desert Heat is sensitive to friction and oil. If there is a lot of friction it will hook a lot for me but if there's any oil it becomes very erratic. For that reason I would rather not use it until the pattern dries evenly.
Thanks,
DW
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quote:
That's kind of my point Chitown. My Desert Heat is sensitive to friction and oil. If there is a lot of friction it will hook a lot for me but if there's any oil it becomes very erratic. For that reason I would rather not use it until the pattern dries evenly.
Thanks,
DW
DW your right about this point. My DH does the same thing. If the lanes are really dry through out then this ball reacts very well. I can get it to hook good but not over react. Just a smooth arc to the pocket. Now if there is any oil out there it just slides. Now if I were to have drilled it strong I may have had better results when it hit some oil but who knows.
I used to have another DH and had it drilled label leverage. Great reaction but at the time was too much for what I wanted it for.
I'm thinking of dulling it down and polishing it with a matte polish. I figure this will allow it to react a little better with spotty light oil but still be smooth and controllable.
I really think this is the ball for these patterns. I feel some cover work will get the ball to where it needs to be for this pattern.
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Chitown, You may be right. If you do try the new cover prep let me know how it works out. I'm going to stick with my Darkside for a while to see if it works.
Thanks,
DW
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DW, I'm ready to scream man!...lol Brought another 3 balls to league on Tues, (urethane, Xception and Unleashed). First 2 games get slammed by a guy who has 8 revs (he shoots 250/240), I go 220 and 20_? ) Tried the Unleashed inside more and I didn't miss the pocket leaving 10's, hit the dry, solid 9's and stone 7's...4-9, you name it.
Move pairs (bowl 2 more), went thru the bag on game 3 where breakdown comes in bad and I shoot a whopping 140ish...what the heck is going on?...I used to be somebody...LOL Last game, (bowling against a cranker w/speed), I decide to chase his line, only problem....I'm about 6-8 boards deeper then him cause of my speed, 45 swinging to 5-6 at 52 feet and about 51-52 on the other lane over the gutter to about 8-9. I put together a turkey like this...it's nuts man, I can't do this...even when I was young and hooked the ball, I never hooked the ball like this (nobody did, urethane didn't move like this). I think I'm going to try the Robo and/or GP2 in the oil this next Tues. If I don't hit some kind of dry, it's a ring 10 and if I hit dry, I stone something....wonderful.
In talking with MSC last nite, we have the same shot and somewhat of the same problem as well. I'll keep you posted bud...
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Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Track Intl. - Amateur/Pro Shop Staff
Vise Inserts Staff
www.Trackbowling.com
www.startabowlingrevolution.com
See profile for Track Ball videos
*El Presidente of the Track Legion
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DW,
I am kind of having the same type of problem that you and Rick are facing. The one house where I am bowling league this summer the mids go quick...but the place is O/U generally to start. LENGTH is definately needed. I think a Blast with the pin 6-6 1/2 inches from PAP might be the answer. I am going to try to drill one up this week and will try to get back to you on it. The Darkside drilled that way would have worked perfectly....I had one drilled 6 1/4 from PAP and it went forever when the heads and mids started to go.
-Carl
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C-G Pro Shop (owner/operator)
Youngstown Ohio
Track Intl.-Amateur/Pro Shop Staff
www.trackbowling.com
www.startabowlingrevolution.com
Tag Team Member #1
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quote:
First 2 games get slammed by a guy who has 8 revs (he shoots 250/240), I go 220 and 20_? ) Tried the Unleashed inside more and I didn't miss the pocket leaving 10's, hit the dry, solid 9's and stone 7's...4-9, you name it.
Well Rick, ya shuda kept the Heat.....
That ball rocks....


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Brick
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Rick,
Keep me posted. I'm interested in what you find. I have a little more ball speed than you and a little more hand than you which makes the transition even worse.
Ex,
The Darkside works great as long as I keep the wax fresh on the cover. I was also thinking of trying the Heat Blast with a 5" pin to pap. Really want to know if the Equation will go a little longer than the Blast before I commit to one over the other.
Thanks guys for the responses. I've been having this problem for about a year now. I've worked on increasing my speed in these situations which has helped but it's not the best solution.
As always together we will beat this.
DW
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Today I bowled on a shot that I think could be kind of what you are experiencing. Inside the lanes were so burnt that pearl urethane was rolling out and taking off the 7 pin. I struggled the first couple of games and then I found that all the oil was way outside. I ended up throwing my purple rhino pro standing around 11 and hitting anywhere from 4 out. As long as I didn't throw it too fast I hit the pocket and carry was good. I also had to be sure to get around the side of the ball a bit more to get it to break hard enough. Someone with more speed or less revs could have easily played straight up the 3 board.
Basically, I'm just trying to say that If you haven't already tried playing every part of the lane with several different balls then thats what you need to be doing.
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\m/
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AHHHH Haaaa...Glad to hear it...Glad to hear it!
Same condition I've struggled on for two years.
Had my son there yesterday and he couldn't believe it...and he can flame it!
He said this is the worst place I've ever bowled!
As stated above...guys with 6 or 8 revs and up the back and speed can kill it!
Any side roll and lack of speed...one must play deep can't carry and the speed bleeds off SSOOOOOOO fast.
Loft and lots of it works.
Pattern is 16 feet of oil...30 feet of bony and then carrydown...yuck!
Speed, loft, spinners or no revvers love it! Rubber sometimes works!
I use highly waxed Particle solids...like Icon2.... A friend does great with a every day waxed WMB only about 10 minutes a day.
Usually all pearls are way too jumpy...but recently I put a post on flip richard on a Hot Rod original pearl Pin 3 3/8 up way high and cg back towards grip center...skipped the midlane and then flipped smooth and hard thru the carrydown at back.
I've gone to a 40 regular oiled league and skying up in average fast and hard.
REgards,
Luckylefty
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Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..
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quote:
AHHHH Haaaa...Glad to hear it...Glad to hear it!
Same condition I've struggled on for two years.
That's just plain mean LL....
..haha
It's like I forgot how to bowl...or just forgot how to score and eveyone else (house guys) are just bing banging along whacking me left and right....lol
Now I get looks like, "THAT guy owns a shop?!"....LOL
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DW, gonna try another 2-3 balls tomorrow, I'll keep you posted bud....
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Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Track Intl. - Amateur/Pro Shop Staff
Vise Inserts Staff
www.Trackbowling.com
www.startabowlingrevolution.com
See profile for Track Ball videos
*El Presidente of the Track Legion
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If you bowl well on oil...and speed is not your thing...this condition is death!
My son went with me the other day to this center and shot about 3 balls...and he is fast...he said..."Why would anyone bowl here?" My reply "masochism!".
Oh one little other thing.
We do have guys occassionally use the dry heat and do ok.
The other answer for me is storm's great Hot Rod Super Sport Pearl(not really pearly acting) with WAX...pin over ring and stacked and waxed( seems to skip the mids pretty good and has a ton of continuation and backend regardless of carrydown of fresh) great coverstock.
I've almost done well with ball and drill.
I'm thinking of moving pin evev weaker on another!
REGards,
Luckylefty
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Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..
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I like LL's idea of the highly polished/waxed particle solid, Rick, can you get your hands on a HexPlosion? Pin out near axis, maybe a nice 1x1 layout, or, if you can find a LONG pin, do about a 1x5, HIGHLY polished, that MAY be something that you could try...it MIGHT work on a Blue Heat, but I would think that might be a touch strong, I would think the HexPlosion would do the trick quite nicely

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Andrew Loose
1/2 of ABT's Finest
"Strike for show, spare for dough, split for D'OH!"
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quote:
I like LL's idea of the highly polished/waxed particle solid, Rick, can you get your hands on a HexPlosion? Pin out near axis, maybe a nice 1x1 layout,
haha...that sounds like the advice I gave you in the past...
But you're right, that may work. My old one was a 15, kind of hard finding a 14...thanks
Dug up my old Money yesterday at the shop and I'm going to try my Delta 1 on this as well. Money against the oil line and Delta 1 to play like a cranker (without cranker skills...lol) stand left, throw right....let's see what happens.
The dry starts for me in the heads because of my slower speed so that pushes me left. Pushing me left means I have to get it back right or carry is VERY difficult. As LL says....masochism....pure masochism....
I really hate getting booted off in the middle of a response, BR says they don't know what the problem is...
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Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Track Intl. - Amateur/Pro Shop Staff
Vise Inserts Staff
www.Trackbowling.com
www.startabowlingrevolution.com
See profile for Track Ball videos
*El Presidente of the Track Legion
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HA! I FINALLY found the right ball! RULE DELTA 1........
As I told you guys, I brought my Delta 1 to try on this over/under condition. I went 276, 190 move pairs 258 and 227...951. My highest set there by far...
Here's what the ball gave me and I can wait to try the Mean Machine on this cause I think it'll offer me a similar reaction. The Delta 1 helped me push pass the dry midlane broke back at the later breakpoint that I needed AND carried.
After 2 games, this shot gets burned from the heads down at about 14 out, anything will tend to react too quick and lean against the line for ring 10's...consistently. This time against the line and stroking more vs lift, the Delta 1 was able to still push downlane but carried on the oil. I didn't think about it but it made a lot of sense after watching it react. In my vids (still in my profile), you can see this ball split the 8-9 on normal shots so it gave me the stronger finish I needed compared to my normal equipment to carry out the corners.
Last week I went 750 on this same shot and come back 200 over that because of the right ball.....simply amazing. This is where the game's at today guys, picking the right ball for the condition has become so crucial in "scoring". So don't kill yourself over not scoring on a particular condition, you may simply not have the right ball.
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Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Track Intl. - Amateur/Pro Shop Staff
Vise Inserts Staff
www.Trackbowling.com
www.startabowlingrevolution.com
See profile for Track Ball videos
*El Presidente of the Track Legion
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I was watching this post because I too have been suffering from the same thing. Midlanes seem to go after about 1 1/2 games. Moving WAY left ( like, onto the approach on the adjacent lane, and NO, I am not kidding ) and swinging the ball 40 boards was all that seems to be left for me after that.
I too have tried almost every ball I have, including my old urethanes and plastics, but they have not been the answer. I get the length I am after, but little on the backends due to the carrydown and leave 10's all night long.
I am SO tired of bowling. It used to be a relatively simple game where the playing field was pretty level. It still can be, IF you have the right ball at the right time, but it has gotten to the point where the options are almost endless and I don't have the money or the means to have 50 different balls with 50 different drills on them, hoping that I happen to have the "right" ball at the "right" time.
Has anybody come up with a combination of ball and drill pattern that is versatile enough to be used on a very wide set of conditions? One that will hook a little in the oil, but still clear a burned out spot without reading it and rolling out?
This isn't a wish to go back to the old days, but things WERE much simpler then. You had a limited set of options and everybody had to operate withing those. If the conditions got tough, they were EQUALLY tough for everyone, there was no "right" ball for some of those conditions, you just had to be able to outperform the competition, not out guess them and hope you got lucky.
If, by some miracle, someone has had any success finding something that seems to work on virtually all conditions, at least relatively well, please let me know. I am so disgusted that, after 24 years at this sport, I am ready to quit.
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Rick i have the same porblem and wat i did was made my fired up a marble and just launched straight up 2nd arrow. B4 that i hadda use my spare ball ryte up the gutter which left tens. I dont know ur specs but i think u shuld try taking a medium oil ball and polished the effin crap out of it.
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"Ive seen better acting in a porno"
-The Ringer
Nuthin hits like MoRich!!!
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juggernaut,
I understand your frustrations. Everyone is still left with limited set of options. Read back through tenpinpro's last response and he said he had to stroke more v. lift. Not only was there a ball change involved but he also had to change release a bit.
If you are limited on equipment....try simple release changes or hand position changes.
Goodluck,
-Carl
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C-G Pro Shop (owner/operator)
Youngstown Ohio
Track Intl.-Amateur/Pro Shop Staff
www.trackbowling.com
www.startabowlingrevolution.com
Tag Team Member #1
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The weaker release does work. If the scoring is low you should be able to hit the pocket and pick up spares to stay in the hunt for cash on this horrible condition. For me this is not an option on this condition. The straighter bowlers with less revolutions are in their element on this condition so their carry is better.
I'm going to try my Arsenal Reactive with a little Magic Shine on it to see if it hits a little harder than the other equipment when I go to the weaker release.
Thanks,
DW
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Mild pearl reactive works well. High RG and drilled mild to tame down flare. Many entry level balls fit that bill very well!
Breaking back the wrist upon release is helpful to tame it down, too, or you can try a suitcase grip (turning thumb inwards for maximun side rotation) - this will increase skid, but might become uncontrollable at the breakpoint. (More) Speed is helpful, too.
Unless you have no revs and high speed, I'd stay away from particle. Storm ball might work, since these use a soft particle that will only grab on dry ground, but nevertheless, you will need head oil to keep the ball "alive" and it might burn out prematurely. A pure reactive or a urethane coverstock are IMHO better bets.
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DizzyFugu - Reporting from Germany
UPDATED, NEW DESIGN & ENGLISH --- Team "X" website & more about me: http://web.mac.com/timlinked/iWeb/X/Thomas.html
"All that we see or seem, is but a dream within a dream..." - Edgar Allen Poe
Edited on 7/3/2006 4:26 AM
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Hey Juggernaut,
We're about the same age and I know exactly what you mean when you say it was simpler then. I was 210+ back 20 years ago while the next guy was 195. Now I'm still 2 teens and even the 180 guys have past me up..
I looked at your arsenal, have you ever tried a pin over middle finger on a medium piece of equipment? In situations like these which create such drastic ball reactions, one way to attack the condition is with a layout just as drastic or at least out of the norm. Your layouts are pretty standard for control or nice blended shots from what I see.
My Delta 1 usually gives me quite a bit of length and lots of backend which I don't get to use too often due to my game being more rev dominant. On this condition however, it pushed past the midlane and ate thru whatever was on the backend.
Based on my reactions, if you can't change hand positions to create the necessary reaction, I like Dizzy's suggestion also of a higher rg ball that will help push downlane without having to "throw" it harder which I personally don't do well. That would be a whopping 15.5 mph for me....it takes about a 17+ on these drier conditions to clear properly. Let me know what you think and I'll try to help. Taking the Mean Machine to this house later today for a 5 game tourney to see how it does, I'll keep you posted.
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Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Track Intl. - Amateur/Pro Shop Staff
Vise Inserts Staff
www.Trackbowling.com
www.startabowlingrevolution.com
See profile for Track Ball videos
*El Presidente of the Track Legion
Edited on 7/4/2006 3:55 AM
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Rick,
Curiosity is killing me by chance is the house you refer to a wood house that hasn't had an annual resurface yet. The reason I ask is cause what you are describing sounds very similar to one of my summer leagues. They are putting in Pro-Anvil and hopefully they have enough done next week for us to switch to the other end of the house.
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I'm not Rick...
But our disaster is on a ProAnvil (older style)
A little oil goes a long way....AND super deep gutters!
Scoring in our house is quite high for anyone righty and on the left the bullet throwers and the guys with no revs or side roll.
Five to 10 feet of loft works nice too!
REgards,
LUkcylefty
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Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..
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quote:
Rick,
Curiosity is killing me by chance is the house you refer to a wood house that hasn't had an annual resurface yet.
No Sean, it's older synthetic. They've been in since I moved to Cali, that's been almost 20 years now. Not sure which type of synthetic though, bowl400 does (he bowls there more), maybe he can chime in.
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Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Track Intl. - Amateur/Pro Shop Staff
Vise Inserts Staff
www.Trackbowling.com
www.startabowlingrevolution.com
See profile for Track Ball videos
*El Presidente of the Track Legion
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first generation brunswick is what i have heard. resurfaced once a few years ago. the center now uses kegel ion. they used a phoenix for years until they were able to purchase a used sanction from a local center that closed recently. they saw the light and then purchased the ion. shot is more consistent now than ever. some consider it honor central. most of the high average players in the center however are straight and accurate or inside with major league serious bend.
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Posted this in drilling but I was very pleased with the results of thsi drilling on this shot!
Really reduced the entry angle!! Yet it covered boards smoothly in the carrydown!
I could see me skying on this shot!
Here is post under Flip Richard in drilling.
Took and applied the pin up version of Flip D I referenced above but made it a flip richard.
4 inch pin to pap. Pin near val and about 4 inches above grip midline.
Mass bias straight above thumb. On an X factor Deuce.
Did just what I wanted it to do. Waited waited waited and then created much less entry angle as I was able to play a shallower swing on this severe Wet dry or should I say bouncing bond dry midlanes with carrydown.
Lots of carry. Also with my usual drillings (nearer stacked) I never get brooklyns as the ball is crossing too sharp. Now on thsi shot I'm tetting brooklyns if I cross(not hard to do on thsi bounce!). In the past if I hit brookly the severe cut to the right left a five pin every time!
It almost looked like my axis rotation was dramatically reduced!
Yeah!!!
REgards,
Luckylefty
PS If I were to change anything I migh move pin down and ever so slightly weaker say 4 1/2 instead of 4!
PPS oh I took reaffirmed the idea here!!
from Dynothane...thanks..(but I wanted more backend movement than there 5 inch pin to pap drill.
http://www.dynothane.com/downloads/drillsheet_centrifugalmass.pdf
Note direct cap location...
(
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Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..