Matt & Ryan,
I'm not so sure about that "pin above the bridge" advice to boondoggle. Several of the Track gurus have already said not to use extreme pin positions given both the extreme mildness of the coverstock AND of the core. The core's RG differential is already as weak as more pancake cores.
Boondoggle,
Given your high speed rate, you may not need such a drilling. Your high rev rate may add to the ball's natural length, given the ball's nature.
I'm also not sure that any resin ball will skid through scorched heads, which is why you say you're using plastic now. I'd be inclined to keep the pin in the 4" - 4.5" range as a maximum. Maybe add some height above the midline to get your extra length, but there remains the question of clearing "scorched" heads. I think the only thing you can do is experiment.
In general reports on the Desert Heat do not include extreme length but do include minimal backends, which is what's really needed for dry lanes but retention of hitting power, which many mild balls do not retain.
WHy not try this, which I have just tried: place the pin exactly between the finger holes? I have tried this on both a Columbia and a Brunswick pearl with good results and NO finger hole chipping or damage. Columbia based balls have the pin and its shaft go all the way through to the core; so there are no voids to worry about.
Just a suggestion.
--------------------
Bowling: Just like hand grenades and horse shoes, you only have to get close.
Life: Deal with what is.