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Author Topic: I think I killed my Machine  (Read 1395 times)

erh300

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I think I killed my Machine
« on: January 29, 2007, 04:49:26 AM »
I've got a Machine that was getting a little tracked up so I decided to resurface it. Took it down to 180 abralon and worked back up. Ball seems to be DOA. I've tried several surfaces (4000, 4000 w/polish, 2000, 1000, ect.) and none seem to be close to what it was out of box. Right it's at 1000 w/Magic Shine rubbed on by hand and still no good. Did I go too far @ 180?

 

jls

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Re: I think I killed my Machine
« Reply #1 on: January 29, 2007, 02:49:21 PM »
did you try drawing the oil out of it?
try soaking it in some oil dry for 24-48 hours. then re do the cover starting at about a 500 pad.
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jls31316

THEICEMAN

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Re: I think I killed my Machine
« Reply #2 on: January 29, 2007, 03:02:12 PM »
Put in a bucket and fill it with HOT tap water, period.
Let it soak for half an hour.  Remove and wipe off oil that will be sitting on the surface.  Dump out dirty water and put ball back in and repeat for a half hour again, wiping ball off again after your done.  Resurface to your liking.
You don't have to worry about getting holes wet but if you are I take a lid from a jar to act as a ball cup and set the ball on that, thumb hole up before filling with water.  Fill up until just a circle around the thumb is high and dry.  Once you've soaked the ball just let it sit on the counter thumb hole down and the fingers will dry out by evaporation in a couple hours.

theiceman

Grayson

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Re: I think I killed my Machine
« Reply #3 on: January 29, 2007, 03:12:24 PM »
Edit: Iceman was faster... DOH!

Anyway you want to read my way of the "hot water bath"

--------------------------------
Wanna draw oil out of a ball?
.... use warm water... like they explain on the morich website... or do simple as I do:

Take a bucket.
Take a bowling ball
Put the bowling ball in the bucket (make sure the bucket is bigger than the ball)
Take some dish cleaning liquid (or simply soap... something mild that binds dirt and oil)
put it on the ball (little or more... you'll see)
fill the bucket (that contains the ball and some dish cleaning liquid) with warm water (not hot... warm enough you can still put your hand in without boiling it )
wait for ~15-20 minutes...
take the ball out and wash it with fresh water to get the oil off the surface.

Repeat the whole procedure again till there is no more oil on the water's surface... however don't exaggerate...

all balls I did this with work great and hit hard and don't show any oil tracks after a six game practice... they soak up the oil like fresh punched out of box. My Tsunami is one year old and still works great.

Just my 0.02€ (2 Eurocents)

I also found all my particle balls not work anymore if I took them down to a too small grit... anything under 1000 was a "killer" for the backendreaction (I used two Arsenals an Angular and an Aggressive but don't anymore)
--------------------
Balls:
Lane#1 XXXL
Tsunami
and Carbide+
Saw 'Em Down!
Have fun and bowl well!

(\ /)
( . .)
c(')(')
bunny honey.... just be funny..

and by the way... I am a "Fritz" a "Jerry"... I am from Germany! (And please don't call me Kraut! Cause then I call you Dumbarse)

Edited on 1/29/2007 4:11 PM

jls

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Re: I think I killed my Machine
« Reply #4 on: January 29, 2007, 04:42:46 PM »
quote:
Never heard of drawing oil out with oil. Usually everyone here uses hot water with some dish soap to draw the oil out.

Adam
--------------------
Adam Harvey

Sanctioned Highs:
Game 287; Xception (11-12-06)
Series 788 (252,268,268); Animal



not using oil,   using a product called oil dry.
example>>  say your car is leaking oil.  and your driveway now shows oil stains.   oil dry will easily remove them.

to me oil dry is similar to a product ebonite has called hook again.  not exactly,  but similar.  and it's easy and safe to use.

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jls31316

C-G ProShop-Carl

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Re: I think I killed my Machine
« Reply #5 on: January 29, 2007, 10:14:49 PM »
I would cut it really well with 2000 abralon and put a very light coat of magic shine



with the way you have done it currently......which direction in relation to your track are the grit lines?
--------------------
Carl Hurd
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Youngstown Ohio

Track Intl.-Amateur/Pro Shop Staff
www.trackbowling.com


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Carl Hurd

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erh300

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Re: I think I killed my Machine
« Reply #6 on: January 29, 2007, 10:34:15 PM »
Carl, I did it fingers left, fingers right, above the fingers (around where the bowtie would be), then below the thumb. Before I would flip it, I would mark it with a grease pencil to make sure I flipped it 180*. Thanks for your help.

C-G ProShop-Carl

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Re: I think I killed my Machine
« Reply #7 on: January 29, 2007, 10:40:00 PM »
Try having your last sanding (grit lines) go in the same direction as your track area. That could help!
--------------------
Carl Hurd
C-G Pro Shop (owner/operator)
Youngstown Ohio

Track Intl.-Amateur/Pro Shop Staff
www.trackbowling.com


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Carl Hurd

Austintown Ohio (Wedgewood Lanes)

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Grayson

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Re: I think I killed my Machine
« Reply #8 on: January 30, 2007, 01:10:16 AM »
quote:
if you put it in a bucket, and cover it with hot water - instead of taking the ball out of the bucket, just run more hot water in the bucket and let it overflow.  helps if you got a big sink or bathtub to do it in

the oil floats away

if you try and take it out of the bucket...  a.  the water is hot and you'll scorch your hands, and b.  you'll get the oil right back on the ball


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Shop With The Experts



Then the water was too hot in the first place! I read about drawing also the plasticisers out of the ball with too hot water... so I say rather redo the process with milder conditions than boiling the ball once... after all the water will only take a certain amount of oil once... so do the thing 3-4 times with warm water and not hot... my 2ct
--------------------
Balls:
Lane#1 XXXL
Tsunami
and Carbide+
Saw 'Em Down!
Have fun and bowl well!

(\ /)
( . .)
c(')(')
bunny honey.... just be funny..

and by the way... I am a "Fritz" a "Jerry"... I am from Germany! (And please don't call me Kraut! Cause then I call you Dumbarse)