Author Topic: Strong ball vs weak ball...when to use the correct one (Read 4355 times)

tenpinspro · « **on:** April 09, 2007, 11:37:15 PM »

Hey there Legion, another topic from Tag Team coaching to discuss and help our fellow bowler.

The question is when should we use a strong reaction vs a weaker reaction. On many of our typical house shots where friction is highly prevalent to the right and backend, many of us tend to utilize a weaker coverstock to help stay in our comfort zone.

For some however, having to deal with our thicker oils and harder lane surfaces of today, that weaker coverstock piece becomes more susceptible to that oil and creates a little hang or lite OB downlane. For this, I recommend using a stronger cover but drilled weaker so that it doesn't overreact.

Unless your condition is completely dry and your center oil doesn't carry down or push right as much, this is a viable option. We can also polish the cover on the stronger pieces to help push it downlane but will help open up the backend better compared to a weaker piece.

Just something for you guys/gals to think about and hope it helps some. What do you currently use for this?
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Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Vise Inserts Staff
Dexter Advisory Staff

Tag Team Coaching - Co-Founder

See profile for Track Ball videos

*El Presidente of the Track Legion

Djarum · « **Reply #16 on:** April 10, 2007, 06:28:59 PM »

quote:
I bowl on a condition that I consider the harshest side to side transition I have ever seen...

I mean there is oil...then there is pavement!

In general I have stopped using pearls.

I have gone to either strong cored highly polished solids with the pin way up but still somewhat strong and the mass bias weak. Or i have gone to weak cored solids with strong drillings. Both smoothly are reading this very harsh transition but making an initial NO Jump move off the harsh border and then showing a lot of continuation in to and through the pocket.

The two balls mentioned.... An X factor Deuce and a Sonic X solid.

I note again that I have seen nothing that has such a definite rock hard wall ever....anywhere. The pearls jump off this harsh wall like they have ejectors in their shoes!

REGards,

Luckylefty
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Open the door...see what's possible...and just walk right on through...that's how easy success feels..

You need to bowl at my house. This has been the problem in the past. I was using my fired up. 12 to 5 was a strike, 12 to 4 was getting the 7 pin and thats it. If you moved to 15 and swung to 10, the ball would never come back. Best shot there is 15 to 13 and pray it holds. I shot my 299 using my razor blade(pearl particle) throwing 14 to 6, and my 300 with the freak throwing 12 to 8(solid particle).

I'm starting to lean toward getting something like a Jolt, heat blast, or vibe if I can find one.

Dj
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The views and opinions of Djarum expressed on BallReviews.com do not necessarily state or reflect those of the BallReviews.com.

Edited on 4/10/2007 6:29 PM

tenpinspro · « **Reply #17 on:** April 11, 2007, 07:47:42 AM »

quote:
I understand what you are saying, but I don't see how big a difference in the pin being 1/2 inch away from the PAP would be(ring vs middle).

I hear ya but it crosses centerline and that's what makes the difference. Remember that the ball has always been split in 4 quadrants neg finger, pos finger, neg thumb and pos thumb. Back in the day, a young Billy Hall even came up with gravity weight for what was back then a high tech layout. I had Tony Cariello come home with this for me do a few balls for him.

quote:
The only ball I've ever thrown that had a control drill was cg at center grip with pin under right between the two fingers. The problem with this drill can be clipping fingers/thumb for me.

Unfortunately, that is also very true. Many of our control drills create a controlled reaction because either they minimize flare or reverse flare which can cause this to happen.

Dj, forgot to ask one thing, do you have a high rotation angle? That also screams off the friction, this is also my problem now. It's nice thru the heads because that helps it slide but when it moves, it moves very hard (similar to PDW).
--------------------
Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Vise Inserts Staff
Dexter Advisory Staff

Tag Team Coaching - Co-Founder

See profile for Track Ball videos

*El Presidente of the Track Legion

Laybzz74 · « **Reply #18 on:** April 11, 2007, 07:56:08 AM »

Great info in these threads, roomies !!!
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**** Official "L/LM" ball "junkie" ****
Man, I LOVE this game; I love it even more now that I'm using LEGENDS/Lane Masters equipment !!!
"Master the Lanes with Legendary hitting power" !!!

Robb in O'Fallon, IL 62269 (near Scott AFB)
LAYBZZ74@AOL.COM (Email and PayPal addy)

Djarum · « **Reply #19 on:** April 11, 2007, 08:30:10 AM »

quote:
quote:
I understand what you are saying, but I don't see how big a difference in the pin being 1/2 inch away from the PAP would be(ring vs middle).

I hear ya but it crosses centerline and that's what makes the difference. Remember that the ball has always been split in 4 quadrants neg finger, pos finger, neg thumb and pos thumb. Back in the day, a young Billy Hall even came up with gravity weight for what was back then a high tech layout. I had Tony Cariello come home with this for me do a few balls for him.

quote:
The only ball I've ever thrown that had a control drill was cg at center grip with pin under right between the two fingers. The problem with this drill can be clipping fingers/thumb for me.

Unfortunately, that is also very true. Many of our control drills create a controlled reaction because either they minimize flare or reverse flare which can cause this to happen.

Dj, forgot to ask one thing, do you have a high rotation angle? That also screams off the friction, this is also my problem now. It's nice thru the heads because that helps it slide but when it moves, it moves very hard (similar to PDW).
--------------------
Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Vise Inserts Staff
Dexter Advisory Staff

Tag Team Coaching - Co-Founder

See profile for Track Ball videos

*El Presidente of the Track Legion

Rick,

I'm glad you asked. Actually, no, I don't. I have a high track, and it covers most of the ball, ie very little tilt. I have about 35 degrees of axis rotation. I used to have the problem with equipment burning up. This probably happens at most houses I visit. This is why I purchased a pearl. But my house is different. The backends are extremely fresh. The only guys who are controlling it are those who come straight up the back, speed dominant, or those who have the big hand to play deep inside. I really don't have a problem with length per se, just violent breakpoints. I have been able to control this would moving in and using a stronger ball, or moving out and using my freak.

Dj
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The views and opinions of Djarum expressed on BallReviews.com do not necessarily state or reflect those of the BallReviews.com.

Author Topic: Strong ball vs weak ball...when to use the correct one (Read 4355 times)

tenpinspro

Strong ball vs weak ball...when to use the correct one

Djarum

Re: Strong ball vs weak ball...when to use the correct one

tenpinspro

Re: Strong ball vs weak ball...when to use the correct one

Laybzz74

Re: Strong ball vs weak ball...when to use the correct one

Djarum

Re: Strong ball vs weak ball...when to use the correct one