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Author Topic: kinetic solid for heavy oil?  (Read 1355 times)

jwcorn01

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kinetic solid for heavy oil?
« on: October 01, 2009, 08:07:49 AM »
Was wondering if it would be worth trying to turn this in to an oiler? It's one of the only solids I have and heavy oil is a weakness for me right now. Recommendations on drillings/coverstock from experience?

 

Xcessive_Evil

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Re: kinetic solid for heavy oil?
« Reply #1 on: October 01, 2009, 05:17:51 PM »
I don't think the Kinetic has the ability to be an oiler.  But if you must, tell us your style and I may be able to give you and idea.
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dissectional

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Re: kinetic solid for heavy oil?
« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2009, 06:09:34 PM »
From what I have read over the years I always thought that a skid-flip type ball (which the kinetic is) would make a poor oiler due to the nature of the reaction.

for an oiler , more often than not the balls are drilled to arc rather than go long and come back hard (skid-flip)

hope this helps

5150BWLR

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Re: kinetic solid for heavy oil?
« Reply #3 on: October 01, 2009, 07:42:50 PM »
I like my Kinetic Energy sanded to 1000 abralon on Medium-Heavy oil....but I mostly play on a house shot, so that's not saying much.

I have a Kinetic too and in no ways is that ball a true solid. The cover is polished 2000 abralon. For me, the kinetic energy sanded to 1000 is easier to read and earlier but retains enough energy for that nice snap on the back. It is currently my favorite go-to ball.

I have both drilled identically using the recommended Track drill sheet layout, which is Pin above bridge and MB kicked out 2 inches from thumb center.

Guined

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Re: kinetic solid for heavy oil?
« Reply #4 on: October 01, 2009, 10:28:12 PM »
I used the Kinetic many times on heavier oil with the surface at either 1000 or 500. I used the characteristics of the ball to give me recovery when the ball broke the pattern. Especially on the longer patterns, I would use one with a tall pin close to the VAL so when it did see friction it would respond quickly.

Remember you have two transitions your ball goes through as it travels down the lane. SKID - HOOK and HOOK - ROLL. Your ball needs to be in roll before it gets to the pins for optimum pin carry. On longer heavier patterns this gets more difficult because the transitions are to far apart. So you will need to compress them together by using lower grit surfaces like 500 or 1000 could even be 360. By doing this and then as I said above can use a drilling that will respond to friction quickly and help you ball get into roll.

If you use a pin down drilling it will respond slowly to the friction and never get into a roll. If the ball is still in it's hook phase when it hits the pocket you will still strike at times but you will see a lot more corners like wrap 10's, 8's, 8-10's for a right hander. Wrap 7's, 9's, 7-9's for a left hander.

Most bowlers even on a THS doesn't use enough surface to get thier ball into a roll.

While you are practicing, a good way to see if your ball is getting into a roll is to put a piece of white bowlers tape on the pin of the ball. If you can see tape tip towards the pocket right before it gets to the pins say within 5 feet. You should strike a lot if your are throwing it good. If the tape isn't tipping then try hitting your ball with some more surface and see what happens.

Good Luck!
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