Author Topic: First impression of Track 300C (Read 4022 times)

hd12b · « **on:** February 22, 2011, 07:28:48 PM »

I finally surrendered to the awful lanes conditions for a left hander in my house and bought a new ball. I read all the reviews and Bowlers Journal ball stats and decided on the Track 300C. I had it drilled 80 x 5 x 45 to get the most length i could. To my surprise this ball went 25 feet down the lane and turned right. i am a down and in player and the 300c didn't provide any improvement for me. The only bright side to the expense that i have is that the ball looks good. I do this is a first impression, but what a waste of 150 bucks.

directdrill · « **Reply #1 on:** February 23, 2011, 04:09:09 AM »

Don't be afraid to change the surface on the 300C. I drilled mine 70* x 4-1/4" x 50*, and in box finish, it was far too skid/snap for what I wanted. Took it to the pro shop and had them sand from 500, 1000, 2000, and finish with 4000 Abralon. I now get better length with more control on the backend. Also, with your layout, would it be possible to put a weight hole on your PAP? That might tame it down a bit more. Don't give up on this ball, when you get the surface right, it rolls really nice.

TWOHAND834 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 23, 2011, 05:11:26 AM »

If the ball was starting to hook at 25 feet, weight hole wont be much help. Sounds like he is going to have to migrate towards the middle of the lane in hopes of finding more oil. The 300C can still be strong if bowled on that type of condition. If the lanes are that dry, you either need something like a Slingshot or a Natural Pearl.

As the other poster mentioned, try a surface change and see if that will work before making any rash decisions.

Peace doesnt always have to be silent.

charlest · « **Reply #3 on:** February 23, 2011, 06:33:25 AM »

Unfortunately the 300C is a mild ball for Track. It is not one of the current good true light oil balls, unless you have a higher ball speed.

Try a Slingshot, an Avalanche Urethane, a Natural pearl or an RX-1 Silver pearl.

How deep did you stand when the 300C hooked at 25 feet?

Just because you are a "down and in" doesn't mean you can play outside on any condition. If you were standing 40 and playing the 4th arrow and it was still hooking at 25 feet, then I would say they were truly dry conditions. You really have to play the lanes the way they want to be played. You can't stand in one spot forever.

"None are so blind as those who will not see."

BowlingChat.net

"Some bowlers are crazy as pickled cats."

scotts33 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 23, 2011, 07:48:59 AM »

Yep need more info. on stats. to help a player. Ball speed off hand or at back end...how is it measured? Axis tilt, axis rotation, revs, type of lane condition, balls that do work for you, etc. Trajectory...slide on what board, target at arrows, break point? Comfort zone...can you play deeper? Can you change hand positions?

Garbage in garbage out is my old adage.

Scott

hd12b · « **Reply #5 on:** February 23, 2011, 08:34:18 PM »

Everyone Thanks for the replies!

I am a left handed stroker with a 190 average throwing 15 lb equipment 12.5-13 mph. I have tried several different lines. Second and Third arrow down and in. Second, Third, and Fourth arrows out and back. 12 to 10, 12 to 8, 15 to 12, 15 to 10, 20 to 17, 20 to 16, and 20 to 14. The best shot that i have so far has been 18 to 14. Still have too much over/under. I know ball speed is probably the main issue, but until this year it hasn't been a problem. If I miss out my equipment hooks to much, if I miss in everything goes high. The only piece of equipment that i can consistently hit the pocket with is the Natural any where from first arrow down and in, or second arrow to 7 board. Again Thanks for the replies, and thank you for your time.

Curt_Dupre · « **Reply #6 on:** February 24, 2011, 01:28:18 AM »

The 300C is a good ball for the drier side of lanes. My advice to you is try to open up your angle. Even if you are playing in, 20 to 16 isn't going to cut it. Play 20 to 10 or 15-7. Another option, is try to get more ball speed. Even if it means going to a coach. You can also change the surface a little. Maybe hit it with 4000 and take the shine off. This will smoothen out the reaction. Let me know if you have any questions. Good luck.

Trackbowling.com
Mccorveysproshop.com
Track Regional Staff

hd12b · « **Reply #7 on:** February 24, 2011, 03:22:04 AM »

Thanks Curt!

I will keep working with it. I love the way the ball rolls. It is just my house is to dry out for me. I can increase ball speed to around 14 mph, but I have always had a lower ball speed. If i try to increase my ball speed greatly I have a tendency to tug it. I know it is a lack of experience at those speeds. I have always been a down and in player with this lower speed. Until two years ago, my average has been at or a little above 200. Our house got a new owner two years ago and they are not overly fond of left handers. I averaged 190 last year and I am struggling to get to that this year (186). Thanks for your support and information. It is greatly appreciated.

scotts33 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 24, 2011, 06:04:56 AM »

hd12b,

Do you know your axis tilt and axis rotation?

http://wiki.bowlingchat.net/wiki/index.php?title=Proshop_Information Go to the bottom of the wiki page.

I have a wrongsider on my Thurs. 5 man team who has some of the same issues as you. One of the biggest factors that he fights is to stay more under the ball as he has at a minimum of 60 deg. of axis rotation which makes the ball come off the pattern at the backend so hard he can't control it well. Does this sound more like you?

Scott

charlest · « **Reply #9 on:** February 24, 2011, 07:23:05 AM »

hd12b,

As Curt said, a 4000 grit mild ball will also help cut down over/under reaction. I still don't believe the 300C is that ball, ESPECIALLY for someone whose ball speed is 12 - 13 mph (Assuming that Qubica, which measures at the backend. Heck, my ball speed is sometimes as low as 13, but usually 14 on QUbica machines and I know I can't use the 300C.

If the Natural is working, a pearl, like the Natural Pearl or the Avalanche Pearl urethane might be an even better choice.

Mild solids like the Motiv RX-1 orange and the Visionary Blue/Green Centaur might be excellent choices. I know Scotts33 and I both have used the B/G Centaur for years to cut down on over/under reactions on mild wet/drys at anwhyere from 2000 to 4000 grit.

Scotts33's suggestion to cut down on your rotation and use more end over end release is of major importance on wet dry conditions..

"None are so blind as those who will not see."

BowlingChat.net

"Some bowlers are crazy as pickled cats."

hd12b · « **Reply #10 on:** February 24, 2011, 03:31:43 PM »

Thanks for the further information. I do not know my axis rotation or tilt. My pro shop operator or my center don't have any equipment to determine this. I don't think i have a problem staying under the ball. I am currently using the Natural 95% of the time. The only problem with it is my carry isn't the greatest( urethane I know). Outside 10, I can get the Natural back very well, but leave a ton of sevens and tens. Inside 10, the Natural slides too far to get any finish. I know that it is just a matter of finding the right equipment for the lane conditions, but at 150- 200 dollars a ball, it is tough to experiment. I can play 18 to 10 but over and under is a major issue with the equipment that i currently have. My Pro Shop operator talked me out of the Brunswick Slingshot, and didn't highly recommend the Track 300c. He suggested the Natural Pearl. I already have the Natural, so i decided to try the Track instead. Its stats were close to the Natural according to Bowlers Journals ball guide. I appreciate all the feedback you have offered, and Thank you for your Time. This is a great site.

rvmark · « **Reply #11 on:** February 25, 2011, 01:02:03 PM »

There has been several good suggestions made, I am currently throwing a Track 300C almost exclusively at one of the centers that I bowl, they put out a medium light shot with dry outsides and while I had similar issues to what you described at first today it is the most predictable ball in my arsenal.

I have played with the surface much as has been discussed before and have found the 300C after the adjustments to be very controllable for me, I would advise trying the previously mentioned surface adjustments before abandoning the ball.

Good Luck!

Mark

hd12b · « **Reply #12 on:** February 25, 2011, 03:37:01 PM »

Thanks Mark!

I won't give up on this ball yet. I have other houses to try this in. I had just hoped that it would fit the void that i have in my home house. I will have my pro shop operator polish it and see how it reacts then. I appreciate all the tips and replies. This site is the best to get information. Very knowledgeable bowlers and coaches.

iamone78 · « **Reply #13 on:** February 26, 2011, 10:33:21 AM »

Take the surface to just 4000 abralon w/ out any polish. This should smooth out the ball reaction and greatly reduce the over under you are seeing. As others have said, this ball is far from a weak ball, so a little more speed or a weaker hand position will also help get some more lenghth. Hang in there and give this ball a chance, should be a winner on a THS.

Author Topic: First impression of Track 300C (Read 4022 times)

hd12b

First impression of Track 300C

directdrill

Re: First impression of Track 300C

TWOHAND834

Re: First impression of Track 300C

charlest

Re: First impression of Track 300C

scotts33

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hd12b

Re: First impression of Track 300C

Curt_Dupre

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hd12b

Re: First impression of Track 300C

scotts33

Re: First impression of Track 300C

charlest

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hd12b

Re: First impression of Track 300C

rvmark

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hd12b

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iamone78

Re: First impression of Track 300C