Author Topic: Solution PP Drill (Read 2164 times)

Rock77 · « **on:** January 04, 2007, 10:08:07 PM »

As some may know, I was looking for a new control piece to replace my FAZ. I decided to get another Solution PP and alter the cover with Clean N' Sheen per the recommendation of a few staffers.

Now my question becomes, how do I drill this to give me that control reaction I am looking for. My other Solution is pin under bridge, cg in palm. This gives me a controlled look, but obviously the coverstock gets this started up pretty early.

Should I stick with the same drill or alter the drill a bit?

I was imagining this ball with a mb and figured if I put the cg a bit left in the palm, that would put my imaginary mb left of thumb. Should I explore this option? If so, where should I place the pin?

Need replies by this afternoon as I am going to the shop tonight to punch this up. Thanks in advance.
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Rock77 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 05, 2007, 03:24:46 PM »

Anyone??
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Re-Evolution · « **Reply #2 on:** January 05, 2007, 03:39:31 PM »

I would place the recommended surface on your existing SSPP and go from there.
You may find that you don't really need another one or that the drilling needs to be altered to get the desired affect.
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Rock77 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 05, 2007, 04:22:47 PM »

quote:
I would place the recommended surface on your existing SSPP and go from there.
You may find that you don't really need another one or that the drilling needs to be altered to get the desired affect.
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I didn't want to alter the one I already had. I am using that one on med/hvy conditions. I needed something as a benchmark piece to replace my FAZ. Thus, I purchased another Solution and am altering the cover on that. That is why I am questioning the weaker drill as well.
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Re-Evolution · « **Reply #4 on:** January 05, 2007, 04:35:37 PM »

Didn't realise you already had the second.
However I would still check to see how it reacts and then just return it to where you had it and base the new drilling off of what I saw. That is just my opinion though and what I did in the past when I was getting another same ball.
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tenpinspro · « **Reply #5 on:** January 09, 2007, 01:28:17 AM »

Hey Ryan, (sorry for the delay)

How about a stack lev and alter to 1000-1200 flat? I really like mine like that because it offers a nice true and smooth read throughout for med/lite shots. Let me know and we can bounce around some ideas bud, thanks.
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Rock77 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 09, 2007, 06:32:31 AM »

quote:
Hey Ryan, (sorry for the delay)

How about a stack lev and alter to 1000-1200 flat? I really like mine like that because it offers a nice true and smooth read throughout for med/lite shots. Let me know and we can bounce around some ideas bud, thanks.
--------------------
Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Track Intl. - Amateur/Pro Shop Staff
Vise Inserts Staff
www.Trackbowling.com

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Rick, won't a stack lev. still hook too much? I didn't get to drill it up yet. I was hoping to do so tonight. I am going to use the spinner at the shop to put the clean and sheen on it. Will the clean and sheen alter the surface enough? I hope so as I purchased it with the recommendation of others.

I really like the pin over and pin under bridge drills and keeping the cg stable. They really give me a nice controlled look. But I am open to all suggestions. Keep in mind, I am trying to alter this ball to replace my Freak-A-Zoid. That ball is drilled pin under bridge, cg in palm. It reacts so smooth and true for me. What do you think?
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tenpinspro · « **Reply #7 on:** January 09, 2007, 07:38:27 AM »

quote:
Rick, won't a stack lev. still hook too much?

Not really Ryan. With the proper cover adjustment, this ball can vary in hook about a good 8-12 boards (dependent upon your individual style). Also remember that the FAZ was a very low rg ball which also caused it to rev up earlier and quicker where it helped control some of the backend reaction.

A stack lev also causes earlier flare which helps control backend movement which is the look it gives me. However, we may not be seeing the same amount of oil. There are many ways to create a smooth look, one way is to keep our controlling weight on center line or mid plane or we can make the ball roll earlier and force it to expend its energy quicker so that the backend becomes tame and therefore not allow a weight block to flare down all at the backend.

I feel the Solution with an identical layout to your FAZ will still have more backend after the necessary surface adjustment (making it more for benchmark oil). I've taken mine to Clean and Sheen as well (ended up a little shiny) and this went nice and long with some decent pop still...is that what you want? Just checking...
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Edited on 1/9/2007 8:44 AM

Rock77 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 09, 2007, 08:26:21 AM »

So, due to the fact that the FAZ is a lower rg ball, it will naturally start up earlier. Thus, in order to achieve the same or similar reaction out of a ball with a higher rg, I need to alter the drill a bit to help the ball get started up earlier. Is that right? I am a young grasshopper learning from sensay!! LOL...

Seriously, though, when you say stacked leverage, how is that going to look on the ball? Pin placement vs cg placement.
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tenpinspro · « **Reply #9 on:** January 09, 2007, 09:04:26 AM »

quote:
So, due to the fact that the FAZ is a lower rg ball, it will naturally start up earlier. Thus, in order to achieve the same or similar reaction out of a ball with a higher rg, I need to alter the drill a bit to help the ball get started up earlier. Is that right? I am a young grasshopper learning from sensay!! LOL...

Ahhh..you learn fast young grasshopper.

We are now venturing into the my rg post with lower rg drilling/layouts....you have now reached the next level....not yet enlightenment but some light nonetheless...LOL

By placing a weight block closer to its PSA (preferred spin axis), it in turn will reach that point quicker. This movement then becomes more stable and even rolling young one.

In order to describe the layout, I need to know your pap. Dependent upon your vertical movement on your val, this dictates where the cg will be relative to the pin.
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Rock77 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 09, 2007, 10:27:10 AM »

I had a feeling you were going to need to know my pap. I am not sure what it is. I have yet to find a person at my pro shop who will take the time to measure it. I had it measure once and I was 6 1/4 over. I track about 1/2" from the fingers and about an inch from the thumb. Will that help any?
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tenpinspro · « **Reply #11 on:** January 09, 2007, 03:49:22 PM »

quote:
I had it measure once and I was 6 1/4 over. I track about 1/2" from the fingers and about an inch from the thumb. Will that help any?

Ryan, that describes an "inverted" track, being closer to fingers than thumb. The layout may look something like this then....your choice on pin height above mid line.

---------------------O----O------
--------------------------------p
---------------------------------
---------------------------------
------------------------------cg-
---------------------------------
------------------------O--------

The cg will shift slightly left now because your vertical movement should be slightly down on your val. Thus, in order to maintain a 3 3/8 x 3 3/8 distance, the cg will be pushed left. For standard/generic tracks closer to thumb than fingers, that would cause cg to pull right to meet the 3 3/8 distance because the vertical movement should be up above mid line.
--------------------
Rick Leong - Ten Pins Pro Shop
Track Intl. - Amateur/Pro Shop Staff
Vise Inserts Staff
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See profile for Track Ball videos

*El Presidente of the Track Legion

Re-Evolution · « **Reply #12 on:** January 09, 2007, 08:33:58 PM »

Rick,

You need to rethink the iverted statement.
If you track 1/2" from the fingers and 1" from the thumb your axis generally won't be down. Look at it this way.
If a person uses grips and a typical 1/4" bridge the left edge of their middle finger is 1 1/8" from the centerline add the 1/2" and you are at 1 5/8".
Now the thumb assuming a 1 1/4" slug the left edge is 5/8" from centerline add the 1" and you are at 1 5/8" again.

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Rock77 · « **Reply #13 on:** January 11, 2007, 04:19:01 PM »

To be honest, I haven't had a chance to alter or drill yet. I've been sick so I haven't had a chance to get down to the shop. I tried to apply the clean and sheen by hand, but that's not working out too well. It tires you out real quick. I'm just gonna take it to the pro shop and do everything when I'm there.

Also, just for clarification, you said you had a Solution PP EX. I am talking about a Solution PP, the solid version.
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Author Topic: Solution PP Drill (Read 2164 times)

Rock77

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