Author Topic: Controlling Extreme Wet/Dry (Read 1702 times)

dw23 · « **on:** November 08, 2004, 04:38:08 AM »

I encountered a condition this weekend that I never thought I would have a problem with. Wood lanes with 35ft of med. oil and extremely dry on the back end. I had trouble keeping anything on the right side of the head pin without taking all of the rotation out of the shot. On the other hand there were people scoring very well with balls like the Big Hit (Storm) and the Killer Instinct Pearl (Ebonite).

I know this problem is a combination of equipment choice and layout characteristics but finding the right combination of both has been difficult.

What Track equipment is everyone else throwing on these conditions and how are they drilled?

Thanks,
DW

Edited on 11/8/2004 1:38 PM

BackToBasics · « **Reply #1 on:** November 08, 2004, 01:33:00 PM »

dw,

For wet/drys (front to backs and side to side), I like to use particle or some surface (800-1200) to get the ball to loose energy early and be really smooth on the backend. I also like to use balls with the MB below the VAL. This will also cause it to lose rotation quickly which will smooth out the backend.

I've had great success lately with a Rule drilled 5 x 2 (pin x MB) and a touch of scotchbrite by hand. This is a forward roll layout that allows me to get into the oil on extreme THS and it blends out the condition very well. It also works with clean backends because it will hook out. If there isn't enough head oil, I have a Freak-a-zoid drilled similary that also works very well on medium conditions.
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Anthony Chapman

omegabowler · « **Reply #2 on:** November 08, 2004, 04:08:19 PM »

a lot depends on your axis rotation,speed ect..

a 5x4 may work better if you don't have a high degree of axis rotation. a 5 x 3 may loose too much energy if your speed is not up to the revs on this shot. or a 5x3 maybe better.

so that leaves the shell type to select. I am found of particles myself and look to pickup a hexplosion for this very same shot. drilled pin 5" up and cg 2.5 out along grip line.

the other thing to think about if your going to use a strong MB ball is the better option of going 5 x 5-3/4 in something like the unleashed/rule and finish the surface to get the distance you need.

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"deserves got nothing to do with it."
-- William Munny

dw23 · « **Reply #3 on:** November 08, 2004, 04:25:28 PM »

Would the Untamed work better due to the even rolling nature of the ball?

DW

Edited on 11/8/2004 5:25 PM

AdrianS · « **Reply #4 on:** November 08, 2004, 04:51:29 PM »

My Blue Triton eats this condition up, 2 1/2" pin to PAP layout helps here too. When my home condition goes like this again(after our resurface in 3 weeks or so) it should be the first out of the bag. I'm sure something like the Magic or a clean and sheen finished Crash with a lower rg drill would be more than usable on this condition too.
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EVERYONE wants some of this!!!

www.totalbowling.com.au/www/live/2002australianopen/multimedia/adrian_shelton.MPG

stanski · « **Reply #5 on:** November 08, 2004, 05:08:28 PM »

Try playing a wide swing inside. Throw the ball over forth arrow with a lot of speed and loft and swing it out to the 5 board. If the backends are toasty, the ball should have plently left to make it to the pocket.I used this 2 times in league when they decided to strip and scrub the backends before league, both pretty successful.

For this shot, you will need some kind of pearl to get the ball a lot of length and a strong core so that it still hits and still has energy and doesn't roll out. Maybe the x-ception would fit the bill here, or a crunch time.

Try throwing more of a spinner release. Should get the ball a little more length and reduce the overall hook.

Try getting a weak low-load particle, such as the hex-plosion from track, ebonite stinger low flare, etc. should help calm down the backends even more when playing this shot.

Both these shots have worked for me on toasty backends. I've used a messanger ti b/s/p and flash point, both strongish pearls, for the first shot and power-groove proactive for the second shot. Hope you have better success at your next bowling outting on toasty backends.
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stanski

stanski · « **Reply #6 on:** November 08, 2004, 07:59:51 PM »

quote:
to control wet/dry you want low flaring, early rolling equipment that is going to move smoothly when encountering friction. Drill patterns with pins below 2" from the axis point work wonders, as do pin on PAP drillings.
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"Of what use is genius, if the organ is too convex or too concave and cannot find a focal distance within the actual horizon of human life?"-Ralph Waldo Emerson

When Kerry called Bush to conceede, the call lasted 5 minutes. It would have lasted 2 minutes, BUT for the first 3 minutes W was talking into the wrong end-Conan Obrien

If the pattern is short at all, you will get roll out, roll out, and more roll out with early rolling equipment with low flare. If not that, then you will never get the ball out to the point necessary for it to stay right of the headpin by it rolling so early. Roll out might get to the pocket, but you have to be much more accurate and consistent when throwing this shot.
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stanski

stanski · « **Reply #7 on:** November 08, 2004, 08:12:31 PM »

quote:
Another suggestion choice is to take a very long pin out, and go 5 or 6 by less than 2. Length to combat rollout, and smoothness...
--------------------
"Of what use is genius, if the organ is too convex or too concave and cannot find a focal distance within the actual horizon of human life?"-Ralph Waldo Emerson

When Kerry called Bush to conceede, the call lasted 5 minutes. It would have lasted 2 minutes, BUT for the first 3 minutes W was talking into the wrong end-Conan Obrien

Good suggestion, many pros nowadays have gone to this type of layout due to screaming backends (pin over bridge/ring, cg on pap). I almost forgot about that pattern, i used it on an El Nino Gold and it did get length and smoothness at a 1500 sanded surface. Always a good ball for pba shots.

Pin under bridge and mb on val (5 inches from pap for me) has also worked well at smoothing backends out without rolling out on my tpc player.
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stanski

C-G ProShop-Carl · « **Reply #8 on:** November 08, 2004, 10:50:04 PM »

I have a few different layouts/coverstock preps I like to use on wet/dry.

My favorite is going with an early rolling layout.....like 3x3....and play up the oil inside of the dry about 2 boards. Usually I like to have some surface on the ball I use in this slot....around 800. If it is too heavy inside to play that like I like going with the pin in track near middle finger and CG anywhere from 1/2 inch left of grip center to 3 inches right of the grip center.

-EX-
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C-G Pro Shop (owner/operator)
Youngstown Ohio

Track Intl.-Advisory Staff

dw23 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 11, 2004, 10:18:55 AM »

Does anyone find that it helps to have low to no static side or top weight in your favorite layout on this condition?

DW

loose5682 · « **Reply #10 on:** November 11, 2004, 10:44:54 AM »

My new fav for this type of condition is an EMB XF drilled pin-axis 180 degree. Put the MB in your palm and line up the cg and the pin on the axis (midline). The pin will more than likely be past your PAP and you will again more than likely need a weight hole. My XF is a 4" pin with a weighthole 5" from midline (right between CG and pin, 2" between each). The bowtie is very strange and you'll track through your palm, but it's a GREAT reaction on the wet/dry
--------------------
Andrew Loose
"King of Them All"
"Evolutionary. Revolutionary."

Leftyhi-trak · « **Reply #11 on:** November 12, 2004, 07:43:46 AM »

Funny hadn't heard anyone mention a cg-axis drill or O degree drill. Pick appropriate amount of flare needed due to pin placement. I tend to like lightbulb cores and medium reactives mostly solids then polish them to whatever level needed. On shorter patterns where an outside line is prevalent this is a good option.

tenpinspro · « **Reply #12 on:** November 13, 2004, 07:59:22 AM »

Hey DW,

I was just about to say what Lefty hi-trak said. I've done variations of this pattern to help offset the O/U. I actually did this way back when with the black hammers shifting 6 3/4 inches over for the grip and the weight hole went right thru the label. It really stabilizes the ball but some bowlers may clip the thumb hole depending on their release.

Another one I've done was to place the pin in track at 9:00, cg in palm and mb at 3:00(if present). This is also another very stable drill but took my inverted track bowlers to a full roller track (Omega bowler got the same reaction) Just some food for thought....

Rick

Author Topic: Controlling Extreme Wet/Dry (Read 1702 times)

dw23

Controlling Extreme Wet/Dry

BackToBasics

Re: Controlling Extreme Wet/Dry

omegabowler

Re: Controlling Extreme Wet/Dry

dw23

Re: Controlling Extreme Wet/Dry

AdrianS

Re: Controlling Extreme Wet/Dry

stanski

Re: Controlling Extreme Wet/Dry

stanski

Re: Controlling Extreme Wet/Dry

stanski

Re: Controlling Extreme Wet/Dry

C-G ProShop-Carl

Re: Controlling Extreme Wet/Dry

dw23

Re: Controlling Extreme Wet/Dry

loose5682

Re: Controlling Extreme Wet/Dry

Leftyhi-trak

Re: Controlling Extreme Wet/Dry

tenpinspro

Re: Controlling Extreme Wet/Dry