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Author Topic: How to drill a Slate Blue...  (Read 1609 times)

JessN16

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How to drill a Slate Blue...
« on: May 30, 2006, 03:07:46 PM »
Hey guys,

I've got a Slate Blue on its way for a super-dry condition we've been battling on our sport league. I tend to like to drill equipment pin-over-bridge, but that's for reactives and whatnot that I'm trying to get down the lane. Since that probably won't be the case with a urethane ball, does anyone have any suggestions as to how I should drill this thing?

I'm a tweener, sort of a power stroker. I can throw anywhere from 13 to 19 mph on strike balls depending on what I need to do. I'm a mid-track player, but I have a tendency to high-track sometimes (which is one reason I like pin-over-bridge, because it keeps my track off the finger holes). I rev the ball up about 300-350, I'd guess. Right-handed.

Jess

 

imjouster

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Re: How to drill a Slate Blue...
« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2006, 02:31:38 AM »
Drrrev... usually people consider the short sport shot patterns dry.  even though in reality theres a bunch of oil on the lane, its just not very long and the balls have a tendency to hook early.  For instance, I rolled on a 33 ft Sport pattern last year, and I could have sworn that they either stiped the lanes and forgot to re-oil or that the lanes were just really dry.  In actuallity there was actually 22ml of oil accross the entire pattern but it was just so short that it seemed extremely dry.  its the same way with some of the longer patterns.  There was a 50 ft pattern that everyone was calling extremely heavy oil and everything but in actuallity there was like a total of 19 or 20 ml accross the entire shot.  Just seemed like there was more because of the length of the pattern.

As for the Slate Blue,  I play a lot like you from the sounds of it Jess.  My SBG is way too much ball for the toast I encounter,  mines drilled pin above ring cg stacked below,  If I were to redrill my SBG for dry lanes, I'd probably put the pin above middle finger or MAYBE even in the track.  Another option you have, if the lanes are just getting too flippy and you need something to roll earlier and smoother is if you were to try putting the pin maybe an inch away from your PAP, that will promote an extreme early read but will cause it to NOT over react on the dry backends.  

I really don't know how you bowl so I can't suggest anything super accurate to you, what would work for me may not work for you.  In all honesty I'd go and talk to your proshop guy about it, so that he can take you out on the condition your bowling on and go from there as to how to drill it (assuming the pro shop opperator knows what he's doing )

Hope this helps you
Jeremy
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Edited on 5/31/2006 2:30 AM

Raven829

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Re: How to drill a Slate Blue...
« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2006, 04:14:26 AM »
Jess-
  I have had the Slate Blue for a few years now.  I originally got it for a toast ball.  It was drilled pin above middle finger, CG almost in the center of my grip, no x-hole.  The problem with that drilling for me was that with the pin so close to my track, the ball had very little flare.  This combined with a cover that needs a bit of head oil to get down the lane left me with a dud.  After talking with Charlest about this ball and drilling, he convinced me to plug and redrill it.  

  I moved the pin to above the ring finger and kicked the CG out some.  It is now much more usable, but it still needs a tad bit of oil to keep from rolling so soon.  Although this is a pearl urethane cover, it is still urethane, and thus will tend to grab sooner than some mild reactives.  The tradeoff is that it is less sensitive to dry and offers more control.  

The key to making this ball work is putting the pin up high.  I wish I would have moved mine higher, but I don't feel like plugging it again.  By keeping the pin high but still in the stronger range (3.5-5), it will get good push down the lane but still flare enough to make a move on the back.  With the drill I have on mine, I have played as deep as 4th arrow on a broken down THS.  I also use it on nasty wet/drys that our house has sometimes.  For scorched lanes I prefer a really weak resin such as a D/T Barrage.  The Gargoyle just rolls too early if there isn't any head oil.  Keep in mind also that you can make cover adjustments to it, but I will tell you from experience that it is a bear to polish up.  I hope this helps some.  I also have a video clip somewhere of me throwing a few shots with it if anyone is interested.

Don
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charlest

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Re: How to drill a Slate Blue...
« Reply #3 on: May 31, 2006, 07:19:12 AM »
Jess,

As Raven said, I believe if most people are using a SBG on dry-ish lanes, the pin needs to be relatively high. The problem as I see it, is that urethane tends to grab the lane earlier than resin. This is the case even with polished pearlized urethane, like the SBG. Unless your release has higher ball speed than rev rate, or you intend to use it on medium-light to medium oil, a higher pin is required to get a comfortable ball length.

I rarely use pin above the ring or bridge level, but I do have it on my SBG. I works well in that configuration.

The SBG, due to its cover and core, should work well on a drier sport condition. I'd be inclined to kick the CG out slightly, that is, closer to the PAP than the pin, but not by a whole lot: maybe a 4.5"x3.5" type of drilling.

FYI I wouldn't recommend sanding this ball, as urethanes react a WHOLE lot differently than resins do to changing the coverstock surface.
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JessN16

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Re: How to drill a Slate Blue...
« Reply #4 on: May 31, 2006, 06:13:48 PM »
Thanks to all. I think I'll be going pin over ring with the CG out or right on the borderline. As soon as it gets here and I can test-drive it, I'll post the results.

Jess

Strider

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Re: How to drill a Slate Blue...
« Reply #5 on: June 09, 2006, 12:48:27 AM »
Any results yet?

I like mine a lot, but it's still a little strong to play down and in on a dry league shot.  The drilling is in my profile.  I'm trying an experiment tomorrow.  I applied two coats of Neo-Tac's Delayed Reaction to my base 2000 grit polish.  Unlike a regular polish, it has a slipping agent that not only gives more length, but reduces the back end as well.  I'm really interested to see what kind of reaction it has on a urethane ball.  I don't think there will be a middle ground.  It will either be a huge success or a monumental flop.
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Strider

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Re: How to drill a Slate Blue...
« Reply #6 on: June 09, 2006, 12:37:14 PM »
I think you misunderstood.  I've had mine for about a year.  My dilling (profile) is similar to yours.  Pin over bridge, CG a little negative.  It's a little strong to play down and in on a dryer league shot.  That's why I'm trying the Control-It.  I'll know in a few hours wheter or not it was a good idea to reduce the back end on a urethane ball.  
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JessN16

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Re: How to drill a Slate Blue...
« Reply #7 on: June 09, 2006, 01:11:07 PM »
My driller has been out of town this week. I'll have it drilled up Tuesday evening but if it's like it was last week in league, I won't need it. Last week was a soup.

Jess

Strider

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Re: How to drill a Slate Blue...
« Reply #8 on: June 09, 2006, 09:31:17 PM »
Whoops.  Didn't look at the username of the last post very good.  Anyway, I believe the Control-It experiment was successful.  I threw the Slate Blue some in practice, but used a different ball for league.  The ball seemed to get a little easier length and didn't kill the back end like I was afraid of.  I'll have to throw it more to be sure.
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JessN16

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Re: How to drill a Slate Blue...
« Reply #9 on: June 17, 2006, 08:23:09 PM »
Tested it today on a THC...very pleased with this ball. Moves smoothly, doesn't skid forever but doesn't over-react, and it carried very well, as I suspected this core would. I won't have a chance to use it in sport league for a couple of weeks, but I'm very pleased with what I saw from its first run.

Jess