Author Topic: Green Centaur- How strong IS it? ( Or, how strong is it SUPPOSED to be?) (Read 1657 times)

Juggernaut · « **on:** May 16, 2006, 05:38:01 AM »

Mine is drilled pin over ring, cg in palm, black mb pin touching the LEFT side of thumbhole ( I'm a righty ).

Normally, this ball works O.K. the first game, but last Sunday night wasn't normal I don't think.

Thought this set-up was mild. Started out the first game strike, then the fun began. Next six frames I go, solid 8, solid 9, solid 9, solid 9, ( yes, back to back to back ) solid 8, solid 9.

WOW! After leaving so many of these things, I got hacked off and missed a couple. Finished the game with a whopping 156.

Next game I go front nine, then 4-4 in the tenth for 260.

Last game, the taps came back. Spare, 9 pin, 10 pin, strike, 4 pin, 8 pin, etc..., you get the point.

Ball was FLIPPING like crazy and had NO respect for the pins at all. It would blow past the 9 like it wasn't even there. I was playing a swing shot and had my feet on 33 and was throwing the ball over the 15-16 board out to the breakpoint at around 45 ft.

Got this ball from a guy who had it drilled last year at Nationals for dry lanes. Said he got it drilled at the Visionary booth, so they should know how to set it up for drier conditions, but this thing is a monster for me if there is any backend at all!
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Beware the JUGGERNAUT!

"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits."
Albert Einstein

I_Bowl4Money · « **Reply #1 on:** May 16, 2006, 01:50:40 PM »

Juggernaut,

A couple questions for you. What is the Pin to CG distance? What is your PAP? What is your ball speed? Rev Rate?

I too have a Green/Blue Centaur and have played in around 15 with it before. The ball is phenomenal and one of the hardest hitting balls i've ever thrown. How many games do you have on the ball? You may want to polish it up a little more than it is if it still hooks more than you want it to.

Sounds like you had a chance to throw a huge set, sounds like a few breaks would've helped. Keep beatin' the pins up.

--------------------
Stephen Hahn
Visionary Staff

http://www.bowl4money.com (Personal Site)

http://www.visionarybowling.com

http://www.maysbowlingandbilliards.com

http://www.sparesproshop.com (Staff)

charlest · « **Reply #2 on:** May 16, 2006, 03:15:00 PM »

Juggernaut,

I have one and like it also. If I might, I'd like to make a couple of comments.

1. As for how it is drilled: what may be appropriate for the guy from whom you bought it, may not be appropriate for you. That does seem like a RELATIVELY weak drilling.

2. There's dry and then there's DRY. Remember that is still a resin coverstock and it does need some amount of oil in the heads to be useful. There can be so much dry you need a polyester (plastic) ball for a strike ball.

2. Mine was a little early with its stock surface, 1000 grit. So I took mine down to 2000 grit, make it smoother, with less of a turn at the backend. So far, fingers crossed, I have not need a pearl ball to handle even drier lane conditions. Mine is drilled with the pin and CG stacked so it's easier to play deeper, if needs be.

--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

Juggernaut · « **Reply #3 on:** May 16, 2006, 11:16:23 PM »

O.K., heres the deal.

This ball is ALREADY at 1000 grit and HIGHLY polished!

My ball spedd is usually around 15 m.p.h.. I don't know my rev rate, but was told by some observers at a pro-am ( professional observers ) that I had a rev dominant game, meaning my revs overpower my ball speed.

I haven't had my pap done for a while now, but it used to be 4 7/8 over and 1/2 up. Used to track higher with urethanes, but reactive has made me change my hand release some. Pin to cg is 2 1/2 in.

As for lane conditions, everyone else was using their normal equipment, ie.. Oracles, Diablos, Xfactors, Buzzsaw Hybrids, etc... They all seemed to think the shot was pretty normal and not really that dry.

I had tried to sell this ball, but two buyers made a deal ( at seperate times ) for it and both backed out. I put my thumbsleeve back in it and it is tearing things up. When I get it lined up, look out world! ( If I can figure out how to get the dang 9 out! )
--------------------
Beware the JUGGERNAUT!

"The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits."
Albert Einstein

Edited on 5/16/2006 11:16 PM

TWOHAND834 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 07, 2006, 12:16:07 AM »

I think the "highly polished" is what is getting you. Remember that when you polish a ball, you only retain that much more energy for the backend. Mine is the same way. Pin over bridge, cg center of grip, black pin 1/2 inch left of thumb hole. I would recommend taking the polish off and sanding UP to 2000 or 4000, as someone else here suggested.
--------------------
Steven Vance
Former Pro Shop Operator

If anyone out there is worried about the scores being too high, try duckpin!!

charlest · « **Reply #5 on:** June 07, 2006, 06:18:58 AM »

quote:
I think the "highly polished" is what is getting you. Remember that when you polish a ball, you only retain that much more energy for the backend. Mine is the same way. Pin over bridge, cg center of grip, black pin 1/2 inch left of thumb hole. I would recommend taking the polish off and sanding UP to 2000 or 4000, as someone else here suggested.
--------------------
Steven Vance
Former Pro Shop Operator

If anyone out there is worried about the scores being too high, try duckpin!!

If I may add -
Highly polished also means you need that much more dry for the ball to work ...
--------------------
"None are so blind as those who will not see."

TWOHAND834 · « **Reply #6 on:** June 09, 2006, 06:43:47 PM »

charlest,

That is true. but, if you have a rev dominate game, you can create backend. He did not say there was carrydown or a heavy condition. He did state, however, that if there is any dry, it is a monster on the backend. Just because people were using more dynamic bowling balls does not mean they were also cranker styled bowlers. He also did not say he was playing the same area of the lane as the others. I am just speaking from experience with this ball as his is layed out almost identical and I am also a high track player with alot of revs. Have to remember that this ball is not a $100 Scout Reactive. It sells for $190 for a reason. Yeah, it does have a low diff core, but the cover is a strong solid reactive. He has alot going against him (rev dominate, high track, high polish). All of us are on the same page in that we all recommend taking the polish off to smooth out the backend and improve his carry percentage. No harm done man.
--------------------
Steven Vance
Former Pro Shop Operator

If anyone out there is worried about the scores being too high, try duckpin!!

Author Topic: Green Centaur- How strong IS it? ( Or, how strong is it SUPPOSED to be?) (Read 1657 times)

Juggernaut

Green Centaur- How strong IS it? ( Or, how strong is it SUPPOSED to be?)

I_Bowl4Money

Re: Green Centaur- How strong IS it? ( Or, how strong is it SUPPOSED to be?)

charlest

Re: Green Centaur- How strong IS it? ( Or, how strong is it SUPPOSED to be?)

Juggernaut

Re: Green Centaur- How strong IS it? ( Or, how strong is it SUPPOSED to be?)

TWOHAND834

Re: Green Centaur- How strong IS it? ( Or, how strong is it SUPPOSED to be?)

charlest

Re: Green Centaur- How strong IS it? ( Or, how strong is it SUPPOSED to be?)

TWOHAND834

Re: Green Centaur- How strong IS it? ( Or, how strong is it SUPPOSED to be?)