Here is a partial response to an email I sent to Visionary.  I was asking about the Granite with regards to my specs and the conditions I was looking to cover.  It's not much help, but it's something.


If you're looking for medium to med-heavy oil the Granite should work well.  If the conditions are more likely to be heavy to floods, the new Burgundy Gryphon would probably be better.  Both are particle but the Burgundy is a heavier load and different type of particle.  For a particle ball it gets through the heads great and retains more energy for a stronger backend than most particles.  It gives you the reactive look (length and strong backend) but on heavier oils where reactives skate too much.  The Granite also acts like a reactive with more control on the oil but not quite as aggressive as the Burgundy.  If you hook the ball a lot you would probably be better with the Granite as the Burgundy might be too much for most conditions for you.  If you need help in the oil the Burgundy might be a better choice.

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Penn State Proud

I had my buragandy drilled with pin under ring with the cg kicked out in the thumb quadrent. I wanted someting to complement a blade particle drilled pin high.

On a 39 foot flat oil sport shot the ball rolled out. It is a strong ball. Some polish and some axis tilt and it might play nice on a med to heavy shot.


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"deserves got nothing to do with it."
-- William Munny

Nicanor,

If your interested in the Warlock DC Tour, let me give you some advice on what I've found in the last couple of years playing with Visionary's product...

The DC core is one of the strongest cores I've seen in a bowling ball period.  And I say that from some experience, I've had 3 Scorchers, 2 DC Tours and 1 Warlock DC.  These balls really are very drill specific as far as the bowler goes, (in my opinion,) regarding the amount of hand said bowler has.

While on some balls that have a marked mass bias, you can ignore the mass bias and go with a conventional drill and rely on the cover to translate what the lanes are telling you.  Not so with the DC line...  Drilling them strong or conservative in the traditional sense I've found these balls to be very hard to read.  With that said, I don't have a lot of hand.  Those that do can make these balls do amazing things with the more conventional drills.  After much trial and error I've found that a "max" drill works the best for my more stroker, down and in style.  By "max", I mean we took the the mass bias and placed it on the strong side of the thumb, (Right side of the thumb if your a righty,) and the difference has been amazing!  I have the CG almost on my PAP and the mass bias pin almost three inches right of my thumb!  By normal convention you would think the ball would start hooking in your backswing and roll out well before the pin deck.  Not so...  Now I can read what the ball is telling me.  If the darned thing hooks off the lanes then it's time to switch.  No more getting to the pocket and hitting like a pillow and finally figuring out that the ball was rolling out.

Haven't played with any other high RG and high differential balls of this caliber before but I can tell you that while on most balls the cover is ninety percent of the reaction that is not the case with these that have the DC core.  People that have played with the EMB that Track had, I've found to have had the same experience.

If you have a lot of hand, play the pin and CG more like a ball without any marked mass bias.  If your more on the rev challenged side and play a more stroker line, max the ball out and it will read the lanes much easier for you and really not roll out!  You'll get a much better read...

Just my two cents worth!

Hope you bowl an 899 and I beat you by a stick!

Pye